dickandlois

Will your Generator slide out of its mounting area? The replacement of the starter requires removing the cover panel(s) to get to it. Some times you can access it through the Oil filter / Fuel filter access doors. Other parts need to be removed so check into things before you dive in. Remember, it is a tight spot to work in because you working under the Coach and working through a rather small access opening. Most of the work on them requires removing them from the coach if they do not slid out. One needs to remover the covers to replace parts. Items that are held in place by screws in the cover panels need to be reattached properly. Will need the model number off the generator as it appears on the unit or from your operator information so the proper manuals can be located. Some model information is harder to find. Rich.

mbtelguy, Check out this link. Check post #14. Listed some links to parts suppliers for the windows. Rich.

Juan, The coach engine and generator start from the same batteries, the chassis batteries. There is a relay in the system that disconnects the power from the ignition switch and the generator. Generally labeled Main and Aux. The main is for the chassis circuit and the Aux is for the Coach 12 volt system. If you have an Aux start switch on in the dash area, press this switch and see if the coach engine will start. Then if the alternator is working, the generator should start. Should things work the way I described, most likely you have a bad disconnect solenoid or relay. There could be a bad connection on one of the larger terminals of this device. I do not know your coach that well,but if you check and see what happens. Post it and others will chime in that know you setup better. Rich.

Larry, Regarding the balancing of the Fan-- IF they are molded, there could be a difference in the thickness of the material in each blade. So the length of each blade could be misleading. One would expect the longer ones to be heaver. However, there is always the "what if factor". The truest way would be to check the balance. By using the lawnmower blade balance or the old pin through the center hole to see if the same blade always spins to the pointing down point. Should that be the case try the balance method and place some weights on the lighter ones. That should give you a good starting point to ether remove material or find a way to securely attach some weight where needed.closer to center reduces the centrifugal force on the weight and the material in the blades should be thicker also. Things flying off a spinning blade is not good ether. Rich.

A bummer to hear that many of them have closed. Hope that the ones left still help members find items. Seeing a list like that and the number of possible sources made it a good reference list, but the economic world has put cold water on a lot of things. Rich.

Sometimes I find links that just pop up while looking for items. This link looks like it might not be relevant, but it leads to a number of outlets and salvage locations. I have used a few of them and this list contains about 50 or more . Link. Obsolete RV Parts Suppliers http://www.lasvegasm...om/obsolete.htm Edited 11-14-12 This is another link that lists new, used and salvaged parts links. There are duplicates and some other sites listed. (Cherokee salvage parts went to Five Star RV Salvage) http://www.glen-l.co.../suppliers.html More changes for the list. http://www.interstat...landsupply.com/ RV accessories and supplies, from in stock components and custom made RV parts. We offer everything you need to maintain, update and modernize your RV Camper, Trailer or Motor Home. http://www.pellandent.com/RV_Products_List.aspx?CategoryID=71 Rich.

Lisa, Check this link. http://hmcmotorhomes...C_Features.html Anything look like your Coach ? At the bottom of this link is a link to the HMC Club. they may have some better information. Rich.

Looking over the different Generator threads, one factor has not been addressed from what I have been reading: Elevation and output Wattage. At the bottom of the post is a thread to copy and paste into your search engine to get a copy of Onan's RV Generator Handbook I put together a chart that should be close to the power output loss one could expect at altitude. Knowing that charts do not copy well on these threads, the information will be listed in line item form; rather then as a chart. There will always be some reduction in the output of generators in regards to elevation because of items like engine HP, ignition type, fuel intake design and air filtering, and just less air, plus other factors. Diesel and LPG engines are also effected to a greater or lesser degree. 5500 watt generator. A 5.5 K generator will have the same output up to approximately 5000 ft. above sea level. At 6000 ft. the output will be 5.3 kw. and at 7000 ft. the output will be 5.1 kw. One needs to reduce the output by around 200 watts for each additional 1000 ft. 6.500 and 7000 watt generators. The 6.5 and 7 Kw generators will have the same output up to 3000ft. above sea level. At 4000ft the 6.5 Kw unit will be around 6.275Kw and the 7Kw will drop to 6.75 Kw. At 5000ft. the 6.5 unit will be around 6.0Kw and the 7Kw unit will be around 6.5Kw. You need to reduce the output for the 6.5 Kw unit by 225 watts for each additional 1000ft of elevation and the 7Kw unit by 250 watts. for each 1000ft in elevation. So if one drives to the top of Pikes Peak the output would drop considerably. This is also true for any internal combustion, non-turbo engine. Taking this information into account one will need to reduce electrical loads when traveling in locations above 5000ft. The generators could start to quit or be very problematic. Generators of 8 to 12 Kw have a larger load swing but the loads placed on them has less effect due primarily to greater output to begin with. NOTE: Many gas generator have an elevation adjustment to correct the mixture for elevation changes. Should you make a change, remember to reset it for the lower elevations! Onan Rv Generator Handbook link. Copy and paste into your search bar. www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/rv/f-1123.pdf Rich.

Edited information for post #2 Generac / Guardian Information. The 1800 watt to 6500 Watt unit Engines have a 1000 Hr. design life - Air cooled The 7500 / 17.5 Kw unit engines have a 3000 Hr. design life - Air cooled. Link to spec. sheet for different Models. http://www.homepower...rtables2009.pdf Rich.

Good point Brett! I was thinking that one might place them on the inner hub if the molding has one. Inside edge to off set the centrifugal force. The temperature rang on the adhesive has to have a wide temperature range considering how hot things get under heavy braking. I would be a little concerned about drilling holes in the plastic as it might cause a point for a stress fracture line. All thought they drill holes in privet aircraft to stop further cracking in windows. The removal of material to balance the fan(s) is a good thought. I just wish that manufactures would put good metal in areas like the fan bracket. Plastic will dry out over time and fans blades coming apart is never good !! Glad this item came up, when I cleaned my fan last it looked like it was time to replace it. Nicks and dings in it. Rich.

Emily, Interesting Question! Like Herman mentioned, there are a number of different used units on the market. Some come with bunk beds that work well for little ones. Regarding your question on a supplier for a Camper shell, be it a class C or A one would need to contact a coach builder with the question. It would be a pay up front item. You can get about anything and as the song goes! If you got the money honey I have got the time. Power Gear and HWH make slider systems. Putting a complete Slide Kit together is common for Coach manufactures, so it you have a plan that you could submit to a builder they might put everything together for you. It just comes down to cost. You might also consider picking up a used unit and modifying it to meet your needs. It would be labor intensive and require a work space and the ability to work with the sidewall panels. Being on the move might prove to be an issue. Rich.

Larry, Thinking that it might be out of balance. One might be able to check the balance with a balance device used to check lawn mower blades, the cone might be big enough to work on the center hole of the fan if it has one. Garages have stick on wheel weights for the alloy rims that might work to balance the fan. A small balance issue could cause some considerable vibration / That might have been an issue with first the failure. With the speed changing with the amount of cooling needed, there could be a harmonic vibrations that can cause higher stress at unknown RPM. Rich.

Hi Joe, Glad you found the possible gremlin!!! My gray matter is not what it used to be,but at times it kicks in. The thought that popped up, you mentioned that you could get the coach started after turning off a circuit breaker. That did not compute at first. However, I wonder if you might have a chassis relay that is hanging up. One of them is often connected to the ignition circuit and when tripped removes all the 12 volts at the Ignition switch. Should the connector you found be the issue, then these thoughts are moot. Stay safe and a little cool, it that is passable. Rich.

Some generators have a high temperature shut down. I'm not up to speed on your particular model regarding if its air cooled or water cooled engine. The fact that you are running both AC units in the current temps. is putting a very heavy load on it. You could try to run just one AC unit and see it the Generator runs longer. A little cool is better then none if the Generator decides to quit entirely. Rich.

You mention that the gauge pegs when you ground the connection at the sensor,that tells me its an analog type gauge. If you have a volt meter,measure the voltage at the sensor and gauge when the engine is cold. Then run it till the gauge reads 150degs. read the voltage at the sensor and the gauge. is there a difference in the voltage reading and how much ? should you read a difference,then you could run a wire from the sensor up to the gauge removing the OEM wiring for this test, what is the temperature and voltage reading. Should your gauge read close or at the expected temp reading,there is some resistance in the wiring between the two points. That is where things could get interesting,just finding the wire in a harness that is like a dish of spaghetti. What we call a fox and Hound tester is a device that places a tone on the wire and a receiver that picks up that tone can help isolate the circuit. Rich.

Sounds like a wiring issue for sure !! Meter is the best little investment you can make. The other item that might help answer this problem is an outlet tester. Generally yellow / orange in color with a plug. Most building supply outlets should have them in stock. It plugs into a standard house outlet and has three lights, Yellow - Red and Clear lens. You can look at the lights and compare the pattern to the list on the back side. That tells you what the problem is, but not where. Since you are plugged into the the house, the outlet could be the problem. The extension cord if you made up one special for the coach could be an issue. As Brett mentioned !!! Unplug the shore power feed. Things are dry for now ,but if your feet are wet you will get more then a tingle. !!! That sensation should not be there when your running the generator. The nice thing about the circuit tester mentioned above, you can run a quick test of the shore panel box and if the 115 outlet is OK. Then the 30 amp and 50 amp are most often wired correctly. Short straight= HOT> Black wire Long straight= NEUTRAL> White Standard wiring configuration Round= Ground.> Copper or green Added a little to Brett's post Hope this helps Rich.

First thought is Door seals. The fact that you have had this problem with 2 different refrigerators, with the same issue kind of rules that thought out. You mentioned that you pack them full, so there could be something blocking the door just enough to keep the magnetic seal(s) from sealing, just the slightest gap would be enough to cause a problem. You have used one for a few years, but have you checked the setup of some switches inside and at the top of the refrigerator like Low ambient and Climate control switches that are often out of sight at the top of the refrigerator door opening? Rich.

Dennis, I have a set of manuals that cover the Engine and will look and see if I can fine the problem listed. You mentioned that no code set,so I have to agree with Herman that its an input issue to the ECM. Places like Auto Zone have a small code reader and sometimes the code will set, but will be stored in the ECM as a fault and not set a code. There is a Throttle Actuator Module that feeds information to the PCM (Power train Control module). OK, There are 2 sections of the Throttle Position Sensor-- total of 6 wires. Connects to the TAC Module. Also connected to the TAC is a Throttle Actuator Control Motor. This control assembly connects to the Powertrain Control Module and sense you have no codes set, it looks like the problem is indeed in this area. I'm leaning towards the Module area, because it works then quiets after around 30 min. This module feeds UART Data to the PCM unit. There is a ground circuit that could be an issue ( Loose or oxidized) 12 total connections on the TCA Module. There could be a bad connection, Faulty Throttle Position Sensor , TAC Motor issue or the TAC Module. This issue is beyond most people only because of some very specific information... and tools required. Rich. Manual Reference section 6-3130 for wiring information. GM Service Shop Manual.

John, We have all been down this road. The thing is you tried and in doing so are way ahead in the understanding of this system of your coach. I truly enjoy trying to improve an owners understanding and knowledge. The best part is, that by you being willing to push your envelope, We all become more informed. Thank you for your effort and let the group know just what the resolution turns out to be. Rich.

John, I see that others have chimed in and they are correct. It there is an input filter,it could be plugged. The fact that you can keep it running with the spray can puts the problem squarely at the carburetor. The needle and seat must be really stuck if no filter is between the point you opened the fuel line and the carb. It might loosen by tapping on the carb. You might then get more fuel then needed should it open and it will flood the engine. That means a carb repair. Small engine shops are next in line. Have all the information you can glean off the label listing the Model,series number,serial number and so on. You might be able to remover the carb yourself, do not know your skill level. That could save some $$. The idle and mixture will need to be reset and that might take a helping hand. The settings are important so the frequency and output voltage are correct. Rich.

Tight is being polite, regarding the area. You might be able to spray some silicon on a paper towel and wipe it onto the plug boots, Let it soak in and maybe add a second coating. IF you can get a grip on the boot, try a little twisting action after you place some silicon on them. Pull on the boot, not the wire its self. They dry out and can be a real difficult to remove. when you get them off, put a little Dielectric grease inside the boot before reinstalling. Sounds like the needle is stuck to the seat inside the carburetor! So if you can get it to run just a real short length of time fuel pressure and the fuel should loosen it up. If the carburetor is where you can get to it try tapping on it with the handle of a screwdriver very lightly. Rich.

John, Just a little to see if you have spark. Gas Generator Yes, Diesel NO! I have used a straw to pick up some gas from a container and dribbled it into the carburetor. Just place it into the fuel place your finger over the top and remove your finger once its over the carb. Keep the straw as perpendicular as possible. tipping it will let the fuel out. Rich.

John, I have used Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant to improve the performance of both Gas and Diesel engines. when mixed with ether fuel it rejuvenates the needle and seat area in carburetors, provides upper cylinder lubrication for the compression rings and valves. It will also clean fuel injectors. It might help you to get your unit up and running again, The big show stopper is dirt build up in the bowl area of the carburetor. The other issue is the effect ethanol has on small engines and fuel systems, so I use it in my four cycle engines. The two cycle oils help to prevent many of the problems in that type engine. 5 oz. treats 25 gallons of fuel. Rich.

Specs. say .89 gal @ 100% and .55Gal per hr 50% Load for gas units. 5.5 KW size. The engine is a twin cylinder in the area of 10 HP. Rich.

Welcome to FMCA. Do not have one myself, have interacted with other owners and discussed some of the good and not so good changes that have taken place with them just like all the other Coaches on the market. Rich.