five

Our coach came with a Dirt Devil installed. It is "ok," not as good as the one at home, but "ok" for the MH. Tools are stored in one drawer in the bedroom. If we were building a coach, I would not order one.

In cold weather, we run the electric element 24/7, use two Lasko towers for supplemental heat, and run the AH at night and for showers. Don't use the heat pump much.

If anybody needs one, Magnum has an excellent manual. It will explain what all the buttons do. Call the 800 number and they will email you one.

Don't know what kind of coach this poster has, but his AH statement is not true on either of the AH units I've had. The engine heats the water when driving. On my coach, I simple turn on the heat and set the thermostat. The burner must be turned on when travelling only if very very cold. The block heater is for preheating the engine for starting.

To answer the OP's original question, used is the way to go. Get a higher quality used coach for less than a new lower quality coach. That way you have a coach with more amenities, broken in, bugs worked out (hopefully), for less money.

All CRVs 2014 and earlier are towable four down not just AWD models. As noted above, the manual tells you it is towable and the procedures to use prior to towing.

The slides should be about equal in weight. I have a full wall slide on the street side and two smaller slides on the curb side. My manual says to "level first" before putting the slides out. For me that means either air level or put the jacks down. The bottom line is the coach needs to be level before extending the slides.

True. To add to the confusion, my inv/charger will charge the chassis batteries only after the coach batteries are charged and the charger is putting out at least 13.3 volts. Any charge less than that and the chassis batteries will not get charged.

JMHO, but it makes no sense to replace Transynd. It is the best on the market and, if tested regularly, is good for life. I use J.G. Labs...http://www.jglubricantservices.com/...it is owned by Tom Johnson, who started this thread. I've used it for several years and get a very detailed report on my oil. In fact, I just mailed off a sample today. In the process of filling out the paperwork, I had a question, called the number, and Tom answered the phone.

It does not have to be an "RV" sofa. Usually you can find replacement furniture that is both better and cheaper than what they put in these coaches...just check around and see what will fit.

I call it a "mom and pop" because it is a small independent shop that is a diesel engine rebuild facility and an authorized Allison shop.

SquireDude...your problem is easy to solve. Get any CRV 2014 or earlier. No issues of whether or not you can tow it, it's in the manual and tells you how to do it. Plus, it's a Honda, what's not to like...we are on our second CRV, can't beat them.

If you scout around, you can find mom and pop shops that will do the work a lot cheaper than the big name places. I had some fuel filters changed at a Freightliner shop...$110/hour labor, my bill was over $400. FYI, Flner puts them on the engine where I could not even see them, much less change them. Spartan puts a filter bay on the coach where I could sit on a stool and change both of them. But I digress...I buy my engine oil at Sams, bought the filter at Flner and found a mom and pop diesel shop They change and dispose of the oil and filter and lube the coach for one hour's labor charge...$65. Plus, they encourage the customer to hang around the shop and watch their RV being serviced. That way I can show them items they might miss, like both ends of the drive shaft.

Cost, time, drive, and who will fix it are all irrelevant...if it catches on fire! Get it fixed. I've landed an airplane on fire...you don't want to be driving and have the MH catch fire.

jimnorman, I think you'll find age is the biggest player when it comes to RV tires needing to be placed. Your experience might be different, but most of us never run the tread off our tires, but they age out to the point of being unserviceable to the point of being dangerous.

Same here, got tired fooling with the on board air. Got my Porter Cable at Lowes for $99: https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-0-8-HP-6-Gallon-150-PSI-120-Volt-Pancake-Electric-Air-Compressor/4764588?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-CompressorsDiyAndStationary-_-4764588:PORTER-CABLE&CAWELAID=&kpid=4764588&CAGPSPN=pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=ddcbd120-0072-4ad7-8835-0f4746260905

It would help if you would post what coach you have...make, model, year, etc. We are on RV number six and I don't recall ever having any "tank heater pads."

...yep, and add tires to the list.

If you are going to store the RV with diesel in it, the tank should be full and you need a biocide, like Biobor: https://www.zoro.com/biobor-diesel-fuel-biocide-8-oz-bb08ez01us-2/i/G5770725/?utm_term=D_PB20_Auto&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_US_2&utm_content=Auto%20%26%20Truck%20Maintenance&gclid=CPi_84Sq8tACFakhfgodm2gAyQ&gclsrc=ds Other additives increase cetane rating, provide lubrication, etc, like Power Service Diesel Kleen: http://www.ruralking.com/diesel-kleen-plus-cetane-80oz.html?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_campaign=(roi)+shopping+-+automotive&utm_content=automotive

We kept the MH subscription and cancelled the other two. XM/Sirius is really getting high. You have to ask for specials, threaten to cancel, etc, for them to back off their initial price. You can either buy a small used car...or subscribe to XM/Sirius for three vehicles.

You might want to try the AH forum: http://www.forum.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/

Same here.

Our two smaller slides will work with the key on, engine on or off...the full wall slide will not work unless the engine is running. Go figure.

Normally the slides will operate better with the engine running rather than on shore/gen power.

Bottom line.....follow the money!