wolfe10

colt9 Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Probably the best source of what will offer you a "plug an play" based on our present system is to contact these guys with exactly what make and model you currently have. This is what they do for a living and have a number of adapters for going from one type of connection to another. They also have technicians if you run into problems : http://www.rvcams.com/

Tracey, If you are really asking if it is safe for diesel fuel to be leaking onto a high amp electrical "spark producer", I hope/suspect you already know the answer-- it is NOT. Even if it were not a fire hazard, you could ruin the paint on your toad and back of coach coating it in diesel fuel.

137 PSI for CUT-OUT PSI is on the high side. Please confirm with your chassis maker. It is easily adjusted (adjusting the air governor). Even a brand new one is under $25.

Next question is are you seeking outdoor, indoor with or without 15 amp power (to keep batteries, refrigerator, etc going? There ARE storage facilities that are indoors with 15 amp where you can lock the coach in your own unit. Enough of us around the Houston metro that we can help if you know what you want. And, no we have never winterized here-- but we are 20 miles south of Houston/same side of town as Hobby Airport.

Or, even Houston, then a straight shot across I 10 to Arizona. And yes, even warmer temperatures. Don't know where you live, but a lot of reasonable flights with South West Airlines from Hobby Field in Houston.

Give Freightliner Gaffney a call with your VIN. They can tell you whether you have 2 or three fuel filters. Would sure do that before driving 180 miles roundtrip! Freightliner 800 385-4357

Roger, The frogs sure look COLD. Bet they are not as noisy either. 79 degrees here right now. Brett

I agree, 303 Aerospace IS the thing to use on vinyl graphics.

The ABS light (nothing to do with any filter on the system-- there isn't one) can be triggered by a number of different things. One of the more common is that a wheel sensor has excessive gap to the tone ring, rust, etc. So, even before taking it in for diagnostics, if you do any of your own work, may be worth pulling each wheel sensor and cleaning it. On the ABS system on our 2003, only tool needed is a pair of pliers.

Do not use chlorine, harsh detergents or petroleum-based products if you have vinyl stripes.

At least here in Texas, our Sam's Club pulls up this for availability of many of the 6 VDC batteries: ONLY AVAILABLE IN AL, CT, DE, FL, GA, IL, IN, KY, MA, MD, ME, MI, MS, NC, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, SC, TN, VA, AND WV Like you, looking forward to wider distribution through the Sams Clubs.

Bill, Battery box and compartment is all gel-coated fiberglass. And, batteries are AGM.

Bill, Do you know of a widely available acid resistant paint you could recommend?

Just pull out your inverter/charger or inverter/charger remote's owners manual or access online. NOT difficult AND IMPORTANT.

No, you should be using very little 120 VAC for battery charging. Once batteries are charged (assuming they batteries ARE good) we are talking about 1-2 amps of shore power. Sure, if running lots of 12 VDC stuff like propane heater, power use will be up. Are you running anything on 120 VAC-- water heater, space heaters, etc. Those CAN use a lot of shore power.

At least with our PressurePro, a two second job to unplug the tire monitor and plug it into the toad. Set monitor to toad only and monitor toad tire pressure in every tire as we drive the toad.

Ziggyh, Is that spring and regulator valve available separately, or only with a complete oil pump? And, what was your cold oil pressure after the replacement?

David, Since you have a diesel coach, here are some suggestions: Put a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF in the diesel tank, then fill tank all the way to minimize condensation. Then drive it far enough to distribute the biocide. Any marine store and many Academy stores carry it. Yes, a good idea to start the coach once a month, BUT (read that LARGE BUT) ONLY IF YOU CAN DRIVE A MINIMUM OF 25 HIGHWAY MILES. That is the only way to get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature. Just starting it and running it in place only puts moisture in the crankcase. Be sure the tires are covered to protect them from UV light.

Yup, outer straight to outer straight= hot to hot= 240 VAC

2stroker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What weight oil are you using? Have you consulted the Caterpillar RV Hotline for their insights? They can be reached M-F at 877 777-3126. Have your engine serial number handy when you call them.

Herman, You are very likely correct on the "how" improper 50 amp CG power "evolves" in older CG's. Unknowledgeable or those unwilling to spend the money to pull new 4 wire heavier wiring from the CG junction box "cheat" by merely installing a 50 amp outlet and tying both hots to the single hot that originally supplied only the 30 amp outlet.

Actually the FIRST place to look is weight/ride height on the tag axle. It is WAY UNDER-loaded, drive is OVER-loaded, and you have spare capacity on the steer axle. Ideal is to have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. This will help with handling and ride as well. Check with your chassis maker for the "how to do".

Bill is correct on both counts: Best to NOT transfer with heavy loads on, as that burns/pits the contacts in the ATS. The ATS is designed to transfer to generator even if shore power is connected without issues. BUT, personally, I always disconnect before starting the generator-- guess I am a "belt and suspenders" guy. SO, best practices when switching from shore power to generator: Turn off all large loaded in coach. Turn off CG breaker. Unplug shore power. Start generator. After a couple of minutes warm up time, turn back on heavy loads in the coach. Is this totally necessary? Perhaps not, but is is the "easiest" on the electrical system.

Sounds like we need more input from rcieslak67. Has your system always shown 30 on 50 amp service, or only recently/at one CG?

All cars/light trucks in the last few years by law have built in TPMS's. Have never heard of issues between them. I know with our Pressure Pro system when driving the toad by itself, we take our Pressure Pro monitor with us, as we can then tell within one pound/sq inch what pressure is both before driving and while driving. No interference with the car's built in system.