wolfe10

While a 12 VDC feed line from the coach is a great idea, it is NOT sufficient to directly power the Brake Buddy with no battery in the toad as a "storage device". The purpose of the feed line is to keep the toad battery charged. The short term, high amp draw of the Brake Buddy would cause an unacceptable voltage drop were it to be powered directly from long wires with connectors from the coach. While a little more complex to initially install, if a vehicle calls for a battery disconnect while being towed (I have NOT researched your particular vehicle), you could: Install a battery disconnect on the positive side of the toad battery. It will have an IN and OUT lug/connection. On the IN side would be the toad battery AND the wire to power the Brake Buddy. On the OUT side would be the toad electrical system (which you removed from the positive battery terminal).

Herman, While a jumper cable will work, it is quite a lot more dangerous, as you are dealing with large-gauge wires "powered by" large battery banks. If the jumper comes off and touches any metal (ground), bad things can happen. You don't want to be "arc welding" driving down the road. And just a dangerous, if the jumper comes off, you loose all power and are dead on the road right there. Much safer to remove one large wire and ADD it to the other large wire/lug. Electrically the same, but a lot safer.

Answering these questions will allow us to give you much more accurate information.

Bill, Totally agree-- there are some easy/safe "work arounds". Safest is to remove the cable from one large lug and ADD IT to the other large lug. Now the ignition is on all the time until you disconnect it. So you can not shut off the engine without disconnecting. But MUCH better than being stranded on the side of the road! Jumper wires can be tricky, as there are a lot of amps available from the chassis battery. If one end jumps off and hits ground-- WOW!

Residential refrigerator or absorption? Running propane heater? What are 120 VAC things are you running on inverter? If nothing, turn inverter OFF, as it takes some power just on stand by. How many days are you dry camping (if one or two, very different answer than if for a week or more as for a short time, you can discharge more deeply and only recharge to 85%)?

If nothing that only works with the ignition switch on is not working, first suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. The ignition switch just provided the power to close the solenoid. It will likely be in the forward electrical area. One large lug has 12+ VDC all the time from the chassis battery. The other large lug should be hot/same voltage only when the ignition switch is ON. There will be either one or two small wires/terminals as well. If one, it receives 12 VDC + from the ignition switch when you turn the key. If two, one is the one just mentioned, the other a ground. If only one, the body of the solenoid provides the ground.

Need to download the codes-- our guessing will not be helpful and will just as likely to lead you in the wrong direction.

Certainly, the next time you change oil, calibrate the engine oil dipstick. To verify that it really is blow by, hang an old coffee can or similar under the open crankcase vent hose. I have tried to wrap my head around how the engine compression brake could cause excessive crankcase blowby-- can't get there. Opening the exhaust valves at the end of the compression stroke allows compression to escape to the exhaust. If anything there would be less pressure past the rings than on normal combustion where you not only don't release compression, but also have combustion/explosion in the cylinders.

Blue tank above is an ACCUMULATOR.

Not familiar with a Xantrex 480 in an RV application. The 458 is a very common Xantrex inverter/charger. And with very rare exception the inverter is hooked to the HOUSE battery bank, not CHASSIS battery bank. As long as the solar panels (with smart controller) are hooked to the batteries (most common to hook them to the house battery bank, that bank will stay charged. In your area, would have to keep snow off the panels for them to function. There are then several ways to keep the other battery bank charged: Small separate solar panel oe one of the "smart thief devices" such as Xantrex Echo charger.

MikenChris, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is more important to have both tires on one side in back the same height/diameter (so they equally share the load) than to mix those with more wear and those with less on one side in back. So, both old fronts to the left rear, new tires in front, original tires on the right side in back. If no sign of uneven wear, I would not bother to rotate the old tire in the right rear with only 6,000 miles on them.

Is this the product you used? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Stainless-Steel-Brick-Mosaic-Metal-Wall-Tile-Common-12-in-x-12-in-Actual-9-76-in-x-11-73-in/3477521

Bill, I totally agree. But, have inspected more than a few that had such a thick layer of ice that function was materially degraded. Certainly a cheap easy first step before jumping into troubleshooting for more complex issues.

But, if a layer of ice builds up, it time (or past time) to defrost. Ice is a great insulator (just ask any lake up north) and can mess up refrigerator temperatures.

If you are going to replace 4 tires, move the front ones to ONE SIDE IN BACK. That way the two tires mated on that side are the same height. Mark the front ones so you put a side facing inboard in front facing outboard in back so the same side is not exposed to UV light.

Blake, In a word, NO. But it moves the "least strong component" to something other than the tires. From a safety standpoint, you are safer with a tire carrying, say 85% of its rating than a tire carrying 100% of its rating. Said another way, having the tires as the "weak link" is a safety issue that is better corrected.

Please, let's keep this thread on track: 2014 Equinox Wobble (and it's Chevrolet twin). There is a separate Jeep thread, for issues related to the Jeeps. Anyone researching Jeeps here on the FMCA Forum would not find Jeep-related posts in a thread titled 2014 Equinox. Thanks. Moderator

Zee, You need to take it to someone who understands 12 VDC and RV's. 10 and 8 volts says something is VERY wrong, assuming you are on shore power. When you CONFIRM what inverter or inverter/charger you have we can be of more assistance. It should have a model number on it.

What inverter/charger do you have? Many have a fan than runs when their charger section is working hard. Is that what lead you to the "continues to run" comment? If not, what is the indication that has you concerned?

Is the sink in a slide? If so, check for kinked drain hose. Drano is really hard on gaskets and seals-- would flush that out really well.

Keon, Just do a search for: Onan EC-30W

Should you decide to check into it, Onan makes an auto-gen set start-- should work with your 2003 coach and Onan 7.5KW generator. Our 2003 Alpine has that feature-- can be set to come on based either on low battery and/or a set temperature. Would allow you to range further afield without worry.

Andy, There are several different ways to control hydraulic pressure. Is this system unique to your power steering, or is it tied in with the hydraulic fan for your side radiator? Separate pressure regulator (that would bleed off excess PSI back to the reservoir or pump)? Monaco Corp would be my first call to determine exactly how the system works. Also verify the correct fluid. There is no "here is the correct fluid for all". I have worked on these systems that use: ATF, hydraulic fluid or 15-40 engine oil. The correct fluid is important. Hard to believe this is simply a "cold is viscous" issue. We have all done a lot of miles in cold conditions with these same systems.

Two perhaps different questions: 1. How to monitor temperature. 2. How to insure that temperature does not become excessive, even in the event of a power failure. You don't say what rig you have, but an AUTO GENSET START would solve the "what happens if shore power goes out and the temperature rises" if your HVAC and generator are or can be set up for it.

Have you verified that the batteries (house bank) is at 12+ VDC?