wolfe10

Harvey, A little clarification. Indeed, if both battery banks are fully charged, no need for the boost/combine feature as a fully charged chassis battery bank should start the coach. But if the chassis battery is discharged, you will see low voltage reading on the lug going to that bank. And, the other lug going to the house bank will be higher-- maybe even a full volt higher. With the combine feature (switch activating the solenoid) the battery bank with higher voltage (virtually always the house battery bank) will send power to the other battery. So instead of a very different voltage reading on the two lugs, they will "average" and be the same. This shows that the system is working. The reason for the jumper wire test is that if the chassis battery supplies the boost/combine switch, and that battery is deeply discharged, there may not be enough voltage to turn on/close the solenoid. A related issue is that you need to VERIFY how the chassis battery bank is charged when not on the road. Many coaches were not equipped with a means to do this! If this is the case, let us know and we can make suggestions. Accepted methods include: "Smart thief" devices that take power from the house bank when it is fully charged from shore power or generator and send it to the chassis battery. There are also smart small stand alone chargers that can be used. Another option is solar. Depends on where you store and whether you have shore power available.

Harvey, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Could be a minor problem. The auxiliary start switch (aka battery combine switch) activates a solenoid that joins the chassis battery bank with the house battery bank. If the switch that enables the combining is supplied by the chassis battery and voltage is very low, it may not be enough to close the solenoid. So, locate the solenoid. With a digital voltmeter, check voltage on both large lugs (one large lug to chassis bank, one to house bank). What do you get? There will be either one or two small terminals/wires to the solenoid. If two, one is ground, the other comes from the swtich. If one, it comes from the switch and the solenoid body serves as ground. Have someone activate, hold down the switch and measure voltage at the signal/positive small terminal. What do you get? If you suspect low voltage at the signal terminal is the culprit, use a short jumper wire (doesn't need to be large-gauge-- will only be handling a small amount of current). Remove the positive wire from switch at solenoid. Jump from the large lug with higher voltage to the signal terminal. The solenoid should "click" and battery voltage on both large lugs should now be the same/close to the same. Let us know what you find.

At least on current model year chassis, the type of brake (at wheel or driveshaft) depends on GVWR. Lighter chassis have the parking brake at the wheel/brake. Heavier chassis have drive line brakes like edprice posted.

Tom, What coach do you have. Then we will know exactly what suspension you have. Freightliner offers the same chassis in different configurations depending on what the coach maker wants. So, some XC chassis have solid front axles, some have IFS (Independent Front Suspensions). Very different. Tire pressure will not affect alignment, but over or under inflated tires can have not just safety concerns, but can make handling squirrelly. Ride height CAN affect alignment.

In the upper right is the "search" box. Just put in "Steps". Yes, it will bring up other topics with the word steps in them, but quite a lot about your steps.

Carl, You probably need to contact Todd at FMCA. Perhaps he can help figure out the anomalies you are experiencing. Double posts and delayed posts are not common-- at least, no one else has mentioned it. Anyone else experiencing either of these issues? Details please. Thanks.

Tom Tire pressure speced by manufacturer is for the coach with each axle loaded to GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). If you are under that (and I assume/hope) you are, you could be running well over-inflated. For example, correct tire pressure for the tires on our coach is 70- 120 depending on weight. If you are, say 20 PSI over-inflated, it will make for squirrelly handing. So, step one is to weight the coach: Individual wheel positions best, but axle weights second best. Then go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table to determine the minimum PSI. And, with a new coach, I would have RIDE HEIGHT checked and then alignment checked. This is recommended as soon as a brand new coach is loaded. Only after the basics are done would I look at after-market devices. If coming to the FMCA Convention in Chandler AZ next spring, some to the Suspension Seminar-- will be discussing this kind of thing.

Bill, I feel your pain. We were "attacked" by a Turkey this summer on the Natchez Trace. It decided to attack the passenger's outside mirror. Hit so squarely that it cleanly knocked the mirror glass out. No shoulder, but no traffic, 45 MPH speed limit. Stopped, walked back-- didn't think I would be able to find the mirror (too small to spot in the deep grass), but that turkey should be easy to spot. Sure enough, turkey was easy to find (after 1/2 mile walk). Mirror glass 3' from it-- still in one piece. Pulled into Sams to shop/fill with diesel. Reattached mirror glass. Friends with a Vogue had a turkey smash right through the driver's side windshield. Still finding pieces of glass over a year later. The good news it was not a deer!

Tom, Is your tire pressure based on the GVWR sticker or actual weights? Have you had the alignment checked-- caster is important to tracking, as is toe-in?

Is this basement A/C? Reverse cycle (i.e. heat pump) or heat strips (i.e. resistance heat)? What thermostat? Does nothing happen when you turn it on? Fan come on, but air cold? Other?

LP makes no difference in terms of level. I WOULD add a BIOCIDE. A popular one is Biobor JF. Marine stores carry it. In our area (Gulf coast) Academy carries it.

Let's first get the facts on whether this is a drive line brake or activating wheel brakes! http://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/strippedchassis/trim/f53classamotorhome/ Park Brake - Wheel-end mounted for 16,000 and 18,000 GVWR models Park Brake – Differential mounted for 20,500, 22, 000, 24,000 and 26,000 GVWR models So, which GVWR chassis do you have?

cjmaher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Usually this issue is associated with dragging brake pads. If that is not the issue, what is causing the overheating that leads to ABS sensor failure? Have you cleaned and lubed the caliper slide pins?

major72, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does your coach have a DRIVELINE brake (i.e. on the driveshaft). If so there WILL be some play/movement as the rear axle twists once the brake is applied. Do you still have movement once the "final rest" position is reached?

Note from Moderator: With the additional facts from the Original Poster, I have edited his original post to identify what engine and failure he had. And deleted posts about other engines made before we knew what problem/engine he had. Brett

Lyle, Have you verified that you do have an air pocket at the top of the water heater. I would verify that before spending $$ on a pressure relief valve..

Kind of difficult to assign a rank to some of the suspension issues on the Chevy/Workhorse P chassis, but I would probably put verification of front ride height (air bag PSI proper OR upgraded coil springs) right near the top. A leaking front air bag on one of these with OE springs can really have adverse affects on handling, ride and suspension component wear. Particularly on this chassis, verification that components are within spec IS where to start. Then, with everything up to spec, consider after-market improvements. And there are a number of very good ones out there for this chassis.

It is already after closing time in Cincinnati. I am not aware of any change to the Michelin program. But, rather than speculate, let's wait for the facts from FMCA Staff in the morning.

Suzabelle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer will depend on two things: what brand HVAC box was used AND what access Forest River left you to it. A call to Forest River should be able to answer BOTH questions.

See my post above with link: Posted yesterday at 07:26 AM

Suspect the Dane's did the original: http://dennisdame.com/about Agree, that is a good place to start.

Just a friendly reminder. When starting a discussion on a new topic, better to start a new thread. That way, if someone in the future is doing a "search" it will pop up. Said another way, we have moved a long way from "Good Sam Not So Good Sam". Thanks. Moderator

Ya, no modern diesel will run with boost leaking out. They need all that extra air to make power.

I do not have or use a torque multiplier. I use a torque wrench EXTENSION: http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/torque/torque.html 5' thick wall pipe with 1/2" socket welded to one end (for the torque wrench) and a welded nut and bolt at the other end to firmly secure the pipe to the 3/4" breaker bar.

If you have already drained the tanks, it is very likely that you have air in the lines. So the pressure switch should be calling for the pump to run. So, you need to find out if the switch directly feeds the pump/pressure switch or if you have a RELAY. If relay (which you certainly will have if more than one switch can turn on/off the pump) the relay could be bad.