wolfe10

Bill, I feel your pain. We were "attacked" by a Turkey this summer on the Natchez Trace. It decided to attack the passenger's outside mirror. Hit so squarely that it cleanly knocked the mirror glass out. No shoulder, but no traffic, 45 MPH speed limit. Stopped, walked back-- didn't think I would be able to find the mirror (too small to spot in the deep grass), but that turkey should be easy to spot. Sure enough, turkey was easy to find (after 1/2 mile walk). Mirror glass 3' from it-- still in one piece. Pulled into Sams to shop/fill with diesel. Reattached mirror glass. Friends with a Vogue had a turkey smash right through the driver's side windshield. Still finding pieces of glass over a year later. The good news it was not a deer!

Tom, Is your tire pressure based on the GVWR sticker or actual weights? Have you had the alignment checked-- caster is important to tracking, as is toe-in?

Is this basement A/C? Reverse cycle (i.e. heat pump) or heat strips (i.e. resistance heat)? What thermostat? Does nothing happen when you turn it on? Fan come on, but air cold? Other?

LP makes no difference in terms of level. I WOULD add a BIOCIDE. A popular one is Biobor JF. Marine stores carry it. In our area (Gulf coast) Academy carries it.

Let's first get the facts on whether this is a drive line brake or activating wheel brakes! http://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/strippedchassis/trim/f53classamotorhome/ Park Brake - Wheel-end mounted for 16,000 and 18,000 GVWR models Park Brake – Differential mounted for 20,500, 22, 000, 24,000 and 26,000 GVWR models So, which GVWR chassis do you have?

cjmaher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Usually this issue is associated with dragging brake pads. If that is not the issue, what is causing the overheating that leads to ABS sensor failure? Have you cleaned and lubed the caliper slide pins?

major72, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does your coach have a DRIVELINE brake (i.e. on the driveshaft). If so there WILL be some play/movement as the rear axle twists once the brake is applied. Do you still have movement once the "final rest" position is reached?

Note from Moderator: With the additional facts from the Original Poster, I have edited his original post to identify what engine and failure he had. And deleted posts about other engines made before we knew what problem/engine he had. Brett

Lyle, Have you verified that you do have an air pocket at the top of the water heater. I would verify that before spending $$ on a pressure relief valve..

Kind of difficult to assign a rank to some of the suspension issues on the Chevy/Workhorse P chassis, but I would probably put verification of front ride height (air bag PSI proper OR upgraded coil springs) right near the top. A leaking front air bag on one of these with OE springs can really have adverse affects on handling, ride and suspension component wear. Particularly on this chassis, verification that components are within spec IS where to start. Then, with everything up to spec, consider after-market improvements. And there are a number of very good ones out there for this chassis.

It is already after closing time in Cincinnati. I am not aware of any change to the Michelin program. But, rather than speculate, let's wait for the facts from FMCA Staff in the morning.

Suzabelle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer will depend on two things: what brand HVAC box was used AND what access Forest River left you to it. A call to Forest River should be able to answer BOTH questions.

See my post above with link: Posted yesterday at 07:26 AM

Suspect the Dane's did the original: http://dennisdame.com/about Agree, that is a good place to start.

Just a friendly reminder. When starting a discussion on a new topic, better to start a new thread. That way, if someone in the future is doing a "search" it will pop up. Said another way, we have moved a long way from "Good Sam Not So Good Sam". Thanks. Moderator

Ya, no modern diesel will run with boost leaking out. They need all that extra air to make power.

I do not have or use a torque multiplier. I use a torque wrench EXTENSION: http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/torque/torque.html 5' thick wall pipe with 1/2" socket welded to one end (for the torque wrench) and a welded nut and bolt at the other end to firmly secure the pipe to the 3/4" breaker bar.

If you have already drained the tanks, it is very likely that you have air in the lines. So the pressure switch should be calling for the pump to run. So, you need to find out if the switch directly feeds the pump/pressure switch or if you have a RELAY. If relay (which you certainly will have if more than one switch can turn on/off the pump) the relay could be bad.

The pump should ONLY run when water pressure drops to below the pressure switch's CUT-IN pressure. So, first suspect is a faulty pressure switch, or could just be a piece of crud/mineral deposit in the switch. I would pull and clean before spending $$.

Mike, Does the pump continue to run? If so, likely a pressure switch issue. If just the "pump activated" light is on, do you have more than one switch that will turn the water pump on/off?

jimburnett, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure there will be a good answer until just before you leave when you can consult the weather forecast. May be able to do the "shortest" route if you catch the storm tracks just right, or may be better off crossing west and coming down the warmer/west side of the mountains to California and then east.

Byron, You might contact Todd Moning at FMCA tomorrow. I did not experience any such lock out, but I was out much of the afternoon. And, there has been a pretty steady stream of posts today: http://community.fmca.com/discover/ Wonder if it was an FMCA issue or issue with your provider? That is why I suggest contacting Todd-- past my pay grade.

Not sure I understand. While driving, the engine-driven alternator should take care of all but extremely large amp loads. What are you running that would deplete the batteries while driving such that they would trigger the auto-gen set start?

While you could buy a torque multiplier, you could also get a 3/4" breaker bar, socket and 5' pipe. Divide your weight into 475 to determine how far out the pipe from center of breaker bar you would need to just apply your weight (no muscle). Example 175 pounds into 475 ft-lbs times 12 inches/foot = 32.6". OR if you want to just apply 100 pounds, do it 4.75' out the pipe. There is another method I use with a pipe extension and good quality 1/2" torque wrench. If you have one, let me know and I can get you details.

Bulk rate is where charging starts, then proceeds to absorption and then float. 13.5 VDC is charge voltage. A little low. Verify set up programming. Charge rate 86 amps. So batteries pretty depleted. Charge rate would be even more if voltage was up around 14.