wolfe10

Yup, the ISC could ONLY be fit with an exhaust brake (on or off). The ISL could be fit with either an exhaust brake (less expensive) or with a two stage engine compression brake. And, calibrating the engine oil dipstick so you are not overfilling the crankcase is the first order of business.

The Source Engineering Fan is not an engine modification. It is just a different fan for rear radiator coaches that takes less HP to run. No changes to engine or transmission needed. http://sourcerv.com/fan_blades

Just make sure it is programmed as I posted above-- it will be outlined in your Magnum Owners Manual.

Could also be a jack settling just a little. Might put a piece of blue tape exactly 1" below the cylinder on the piston to see if it "moves in the night". Also, with temperature change coaches WILL expand/contract. 40' of metal and fiberglass will have some movement.

I am also a fan of Lifeline batteries-- was introduced to them in the 1990's in our sailboats. Your Silverleaf is a MONITORING system-- it does not affect the charging algorithms. Tell us what charger, converter or inverter/charger you have. That is where control of the charging algorithms is done. If a quality smart inverter/charger, you will want to verify that it is properly programmed. Parameters you will be programming are: Battery technology (AGM) Battery bank size (in amp-hrs). If 8 6 VDC 220 amp-hr batteries, that is 880 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. Ambient temperature (if you don't have an optional battery temperature sensor)

F413022, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis do you have? Is this an "air over" or 100% air suspension? Over what period of time does it leak down?

I agree. "Best guess" is not the same as a fact.

You will have three ride height valves. Two on one axle, one on the other.

If it is a ride height valve (and without a picture or detailed description this is just an ASSUMPTION), once air is let out to a point that proper ride height is achieved, it will stop exhausting air. If it does not, the ride height valve needs to be replaced. They are not expensive.

If these are the RIDE HEIGHT VALVES, they are basically a three position valve: Let air into the air bag(s) Do nothing Let air out of the air bag(s). So, indeed, if you are talking about the ride height valves, if ride height is too high, it WILL (and should) let air out. The ride height valve will have a mechanical link/rod from axle to the valve so that it maintains the correct ride height.

Since the OP has already made the decision/bought the marine batteries, probably no need for us to make recommendations as to the viability of the two types. Just make sure they are wired properly and his inverter/charger is programmed properly for them.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is it the coolant filter or the filter base that is cracked? If the filter base, Cummins has an excellent, free site for parts as well as service information. It is called "Cummins QuickServe Online". The correct filter is more of a question mark. The filter depends on what type of coolant you have ("low silicate for diesel with added SCA" OR one of the new generation coolants that do not use added SCA). If the former, you need to test the coolant (test strips are available at most diesel shops and I will have them when I present at the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminar at Chandler). The test strips test SCA concentration, freeze point and pH. The filters come with different amounts of SCA. So for one of the new generation coolants, you would use a filter BLANK which is a filter with no SCA. If your coolant does require SCA, the test strips will tell you how many units you need to add. Said another way, the coolant filter is one of the few filters where you do NOT ALWAYS GO BACK WITH THE SAME FILTER NUMBER.

Positive of house to positive of battery #1 to positive of battery #2 to positive of battery #3 to positive of battery #4. House ground to negative of battery #4 to negative of battery #3 to negative of battery #2 to negative of battery #1. Yes, there are some more complex configurations, but this is the basically accepted way to wire 4 batteries in parallel.

If they are wet cell, as were the old ones (i.e. same technology) then no reprogramming for that part is needed. If total amp-hrs @ 12 VDC is the same or close to the same, no reprogramming for that part is needed.

Couple of points: You might verify that indeed these 12 VDC batteries are DEEP CYCLE batteries, as most "marine" batteries are start/deep cycle batteries (read that compromise of the two) with thinner plates not really meant for extended deep cycle work. Yes, your inverter/charger always needs to be re-programmed if battery technology, bank size (amp-hrs) or temperature changes (unless you have the remote, optional temperature sensor). An easy job from most Xantrex remote panels.

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

While silicone hoses do have advantages, they are more difficult to seal than other high-end hoses. Gates green stripe is what I use: http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/fleet-and-heavy-duty/hd-cooling-system/hd-coolant-hose/green-stripe-4-ply-coolant-hose

Like any chassis, there are trade-offs. A FRED really combines many attributes of gas chassis (suspension, brakes, etc) with the diesel engine in front, front radiator and Allison transmission.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. The more specific you are in terms of exactly what coach you want, the less picky you can likely be in terms of location, condition, etc. Basically, you will be ahead if you avoid coaches that have been driven up north where there is salt on the roads. Few RV's are properly protected against the ravages of salt corrosion.

Are you referring to when the air pressure warning light/alarm comes on or when the spring brake actually applies??? This from the Texas CDL manual page 73. Section 5.1.14: 5.1.14 – Spring Brakes All trucks, truck tractors, and buses must be equipped with emergency brakes and parking brakes. They must be held on by mechanical force (because air pressure can eventually leak away). Spring brakes are usually used to meet these needs. When driving, powerful springs are held back by air pressure. If the air pressure is removed, the springs put on the brakes. A parking brake control in the cab allows the driver to let the air out of the spring brakes. This lets the springs put the brakes on. A leak in the air brake system, which causes all the air to be lost, will also cause the springs to put on the brakes. Tractor and straight truck spring brakes will come fully on when air pressure drops to a range of 20 to 45 psi (typically 20 to 30 psi). Do not wait for the brakes to come on automatically. When the low air pressure warning light and buzzer first come on, bring the vehicle to a safe stop right away, while you can still control the brakes. The braking power of spring brakes depends on the brakes being in adjustment. If the brakes are not adjusted properly, neither the regular brakes nor the emergency/parking brakes will work right.

No question, the Invisibrake takes a lot more to install-- ONE TIME ONLY. Once installed, there is nothing to move or set up. We are on our second toad with the Invisibrake and like not having to haul a box around and set it up each time we want to tow or use the toad. And, many vehicles do not have room under the hood for an M&G or other "under hood" alternative. No question, there is no one ideal toad brake-- that is why some companies offer a number of different choices. If we changed toads every year or so, the Invisibrake would not even be in consideration.

You may have two unrelated problems. Suspect the rapid 0-230 PSI on the gauge was a gauge, not actual air pressure issue. Were this to happen while driving, when it dropped below about 30 PSI, the parking brake would have come on. And I am not aware of any engine-driven compressor on an RV capable of "rapid 0-230 PSI". Particularly if humid or wet when parked, it is not uncommon for the brake shoe to "rust itself" to the drum. In most cases this can be freed by putting the transmission in D and using a little throttle. Then N. Then R and a little throttle. Do not go from D with throttle to R with throttle without returning engine to idle and going through N. If this does not work, you may need to use a hammer to shock the shoes loose. Be SURE TO USE SAFETY STANDS AND BLOCK THE WHEELS SO ONCE FREED UP IT WILL NOT ROLL. Yes, you could have a more serious problem, but start with diagnosing the easy stuff.

GOOD CATCH. We were all addressing the engine compression brake question without even considering the engine. The Cummins ISL is the smallest Cummins that can be equipped with an engine compression brake. You are absolutely correct, the Cummins C engine can NOT be equipped with an engine compression brake. It would have an EXHAUST BRAKE. And, yes and exhaust brake raises back pressure on the exhaust (basically like a potato stuffed in the tailpipe) and therefore crankcase pressure. But, a properly functioning exhaust brake (not producing excessive back pressure) with properly functioning engine should not produce excessive oil from the crankcase vent hose.