wolfe10

Yes. welcome to the FMCA Forum. Many monitor systems verify 50 amp by sensing 240 VAC between the two hot legs. An incorrectly wired 50 amp outlet with both hots off the same side of the CG junction box would show 0 VAC between the hots. Did this occur in any other CG? Said another way, if it occurs again, use a voltmeter between the two outer straights-- they should read 240 VAC. If incorrectly wired, could read 0.

JohnRye, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. So, currently you have no oven other than the microwave? If so, my wife who does a lot of cooking/baking strongly recommends a convection/microwave oven. Suspect your available space will be one of the prime dictates of what you can go with. And, yes, I would shop for "home" appliances, paying attention to power demand to make sure you have the wiring and breaker to handle the load.

While Michelin does not endorse any aftermarket products, Aerospace 303 is a good non-petroleum product with UV protection. As far as cracks, I would recommend you swing by a Michelin dealer to their evaluation-- kind of hard to evaluate on the internet.

Michelin's official position is that a complete inspection needs to be done by a competent tire dealer at least every year, beginning at year 5 from tires manufacture date (from DOT number). And, that they positively have to be replaced at 10 years. Certainly there are a number of factors within owner's control that will extend useful tire life: 1. Always run correct PSI/do not overload. 2. Cover if out of doors to protect from UV light. Light colored/white covers preferable as they allow less heat, another degrader of tires. 3. Drive frequently enough so that the emoluments that protect the tire are able to migrate to the surface.

Power outage without auto gen set start should NOT start the generator. If no auto gen set start, check for issues such as moisture in the generator start circuit.

Keon, Pretty easy to remove an old/obsolete dish: Use a piece of aluminum larger than the hole on the roof itself to cover the hole. Bed the aluminum with the appropriate sealant/caulk for your type of room and screw it to the roof at the corners of the aluminum-- if large area use more screws. Put sealant/caulk on the screws as well as between aluminum and roof. On the interior ceiling, make a piece of wood matching the kind/color of the existing interior wood and install it over the hole.

I would recommend checking the electronics area of the generator for moisture and/or loose connection. It is not unusual for moisture in the start connections on the generator to "self-start".

ARC's closer control of boiler temperature to keep boiler temperature from going too high IS safer. Think of the factory recall box as a "fail safe" not a controller.

The ARC control MUCH more closely controls boiler temperature. The recall does nothing to control boiler temperature-- just puts it into "time out" under some conditions.

There is only one remote sensor. The other sensor is in the monitor itself (the one that is inside the coach). The remote is the same one we use inside the refrigerator in the summer-- monitor on the dash while driving.

Roy, Yes, they are correctly in parallel as far as the interconnect cables (positive to positive and negative to negative). But the connections to the coach should be positive from ONE battery and negative FROM THE OTHER. That way both batteries do the same amount of the "heavy lifting" as well as receiving charge.

phoenix2015, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In most coaches, the duct work is interconnected/one long duct, so running the front roof A/C and closing the front vents will cool the back. Try it and let us know what you find. The other option is to contact Monaco, as they built the coach.

Nothing particularly right or wrong with 8D's vs 6 VDC batteries-- yes heavy, but on the OP's installation looks like an easy in/out. The only caution is that many 8D's are starting batteries, not deep cycle batteries, whereas most 6 VDC batteries ARE deep cycle. As long as you verify that your new batteries are deep cycle, either the 8D or 6 VDC in series will do the job. We have had both set-ups on different coaches and both work just fine.

With the Caterpillar C7, 2,000- 2,100 is a good RPM for climbing long grades where you could overheat. RPM range for that engine is 1,440 RPM (peak torque) to 2,400 RPM (peak HP and governed RPM).

And, the house batteries (the two on the right) do not appear to be hooked up properly. You want the positive to the house to come off one battery and the ground/negative from the OTHER battery.

Ray, If keeping the absorption refrigerator, strongly consider adding an ARC controller: https://www.arprv.com/

jimmyfc1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will likely hear both pro and con on this. Personally, on three coaches over the last 18 years, we have always stored with jacks DOWN. No adverse issues, and appreciate having some of the weight off the tires and suspension. If not in a clean area, I would wipe down the pistons before retracting after long storage.

The problem with all that weight at the extreme back of the coach is its affect on coach weight distribution. Being 10+ feet behind the rear axle, it adds well more than its own weight to the rear axle and removes weight from the front axle. That very negatively affects handling. Both Tiffin and Herman are correct.

The 2016 Honda Civic manual transmission IS towable 4 wheels down and since the mechanicals are unchanged the 2017 may be. This is not just a question of machinery, but also of liability. So are the Fit and HR-V with manual transmission for 2016. All this is listed in the FMCA Towing Guide for 2016.

Keon, Three answers: If below GVWR (not just GCWR) you have a point. The more critical answer is that each state has its own laws as to how much a trailer/toad can weigh before it requires supplemental brakes. I would suggest looking into the requirements of the most restrictive state you plan to enter to verify that you are legal. Were you ever involved in an accident, and did not have the proper safety gear per that state's requirements, the other guy's attorney would have a very easy time. Lastly, I know of no coach, particularly a gas powered coach that will stop in as short a distance without toad brakes as with. Supplemental brakes could just keep you out of an accident, rather than running over someone.

Percent bio diesel vs "dino" diesel is a complex subject. In some states, the minimum bio content is legislated-- generally pressure from farm lobbies, sometimes eco groups. In some it is up to the refinery/oil company and can vary based on the spot price of bio vs dino. In many cases, it changes by the tanker as spot prices change. Not all station employees have any idea what the percent bio really is that is in their tanks.

Pat, That is just not enough information for us to provide an answer with the certainty needed to insure that you do not do $$$ of damage to your electrical system. Best advice is to wait until Monday and verify wiring. If you can't wait, you will need to trace any wires in question to their destination. If you have wire identification (numbers on wires), someone with the same coach may have a wiring diagram and/or be able to look at their setup.

Keigm, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Indeed correct tire pressure can be confusing at first. So, let's go through sources of information on correct tire pressure: The GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) sticker, usually located near the driver's seat area contains a lot of information including OE wheel size, tire size and recommended tire pressure IF EACH AXLE IS LOADED TO ITS GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Therein lies the first rub-- is each axle at its weight rating, above or below??? The BEST way to determine correct tire pressure (actually what you are determining is correct MINIMUM tire pressure for a given weight) is to weight the individual wheel positions. Then go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table with the heavier wheel position on each axle. Each tire on that axle to have the PSI based on the heavier wheel position. It is sometimes difficult to find a place to get individual wheel weights. If you are going to the FMCA Convention in Chandler, AZ, RVSEF will be doing individual wheel weighting at the Convention. Again, this will give you the correct MINIMUM recommended PSI. Most of us add 5-10 PSI to this minimum as long as it does not exceed the max of tire or wheel as a fudge factor, so that big shopping trip or a cold snap does not put you under the recommended PSI. Next best is to weight each axle, which can be done at many truck stops, etc. The rub is that you are ASSUMING perfect left/right weight distribution-- very unlikely. So here you would need to add more of a "fudge factor". Weighting will also tell you if your coach's weight is reasonably distributed. With a tag axle, adjustment to ride height on the tag axle changes weight on both drive and front axle. Ideally each axle will carry the same PERCENT of its GAWR. A good idea to have RIDE HEIGHT checked and tag axle loading adjusted before the weighing to determine correct minimum PSI.

Chad, Can't imaging going from a 255/80R22.5 or 265/75R22.5 to a 295/70R22.5. Doubt that you wheels are even wide enough for that large a jump-- VERIFY. And, doubt you will get a smoother ride from a tire with a shorter sidewall (less sidewall to absorb bumps).

I would start by contacting Spartan, but see no reason you could not put a primary fuel filter/water separator before the lift pump-- probably 20-30 micron element. Let us know what you find out.