wolfe10

Thanks for the update. Sounds like we may be back to "start by replacing that one outlet". But, are you sure that the converter is on the same breaker/circuit as all the other outlets??? Most coaches have a separate breaker/wiring for the converter.

Be aware that the Cummins system is designed to work under a slight VACUUM (i.e. to suck fuel from tank to pump). I am not aware of any data from Cummins on the effect of supplying positive pressure where the system was designed to work under slight vacuum. Absolutely agree-- too much restriction can certainly cause issues-- whether in tank fuel pickup, hose length and/or diameter, hose routing, restriction in primary fuel filter and/or secondary fuel filter. From Cummins document 018-016: Fuel System For CAPS Fuel System: Maximum fuel inlet restriction at rated HP measured at lift pump inlet: 4" HG. Maximum fuel inlet restriction at rated HP measured at CAPS pump inlet: 10" HG.

I agree, Both excellent suggestions. McDonald Observatory to confirm their Star Party info: https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/visitors/programs/star-parties

Again: Agree, pedestals/shore power can be defective. But, it would affect far more 120 VAC-powered items than just a converter. Is this the ONLY circuit that is not operating properly?

Agree, pedestals/shore power can be defective. But, it would affect far more 120 VAC-powered items than just a converter. Is this the ONLY circuit that is not operating properly?

krischampy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With 120 VAC confirmed to the outlet and the converter working when plugged into another source, the first thing I would do is replace the outlet. It may be just corroded enough or loose enough that your converter plug is not making good contact. An inexpensive place to start.

Ya, the only reliable answer would have to come from Freightliner, Gaffney. If there was a history of large chunks clogging primary fuel filters, that MAY justify a 104 micron pre-filter.

timbo3404, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is your salesman switch (the master switch normally located near the door) on?

Kimm, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have no first hand information on your specific A/C unit. But most communicate by a cable that can be reached from inside the coach/in the lower (inside coach) unit. Remove the filters or what you need to to locate the phone-type/ethernet-type connection. Remove, perhaps use an electric cleaner such as DeOxit and firmly reinstall.

gglenn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Might check with Monaco, or what I would probably do is just remove the lock and take it in to a lock smith.

Byron, Not sure no answer has anything to do with being welcome??? Freightliner Gaffney would be place to ask that question, as they were the ones who speced and installed it. Since it cost Freightliner extra $$, I suspect they had a good reason for installing it. Few companies spend extra $$ unless they feel it is needed. And only with the ISB engine, do it would not be on your coach.

Yes, it shows as a 104 micron screen. Really there just to catch chunks, rust, etc.

I pulled up the Freightliner specs for that chassis. Cummins ISB 5.9 liter. Shows 300 HP at 2,500 RPM, so cruise of 2,100 would be OK. You are correct-- too fast for a larger diesel.

lewp, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. One option is to disconnect the water supply line as close to the refrigerator as you can easily access it. Drain what you can. Apply 20 PSI of air pressure and turn on the ice maker. Let it operate until you hear air hissing in the ice maker when the solenoid opens.

As of this date (November 9) only 6 sites left for the Rally. Then we will start a waiting list.

Good idea. Done.

Me too. U.S. 90 San Antonio to Van Horn and I 10 the rest of the way. But, that is our standard E-W route.

We really need more information to keep from just shooting in the dark and perhaps giving you inaccurate information for your coach. Are you on shore power? Solar charger? What is voltage of chassis battery: Not plugged in? Plugged in? What is voltage of house battery: Not plugged in? Plugged in? How long did you run the engine/how far did you drive in your post immediately above where voltage started out at 13.6 and batteries (need to know whether both chassis and house batteries or just one) went dead. If you like, just click "quote" and then use SOLID LETTER CAPS BY THE QUESTIONS TO ANSWER.

The Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) will hold their winter rally in Camp Verde, AZ February 26- March 3, 2017 (the week before the FMCA Convention in Chandler, AZ). The rally features five nights of camping, four hot breakfasts, three catered dinners plus one cold breakfast, three days technical seminars, crafts and lifestyle presentations, and an owner round table. The technical sessions are NOT "gear head", but focused on having the average DP owner know what needs to be done to minimize cost of ownership, minimize breakdowns and maximize performance. For more information: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575 Hope to see you there-- Dianne and I will be there.

Thanks for the update. Once batteries have been run that low on water, it is HIGHLY unlikely that they are still good. With the smart converter, might be a good time to replace those abused batteries.

And, do both house and chassis batteries discharge? What does your digital voltmeter say (digital voltmeters start under $20 and are very important in diagnosing RV issues),

I would NOT recommend jumping battery to battery OR from boost solenoid large lug to large lug-- you are dealing with a LOT of amps and touching either end of a jumper cable to any piece of metal could have catastrophic consequences. If you do that, be sure to use large-gauge jumper cables and be extremely careful to avoid contacting any metal (i.e. ground). As I suggested, use a small jumper wire from the lug with 14 VAC to the positive small/signal terminal and let that large surface area of the solenoid do the work. That small wire will only need to carry an amp or so-- just enough to close the contacts on the solenoid.

Tell us what area of the country you are in and what kind of coaches/features/price are on your short list.

No, the speed delta on a grade will not be 35 vs 50. Here is an excellent discussion of coach performance written by Caterpillar Corp. Physics is the same for Cummins, or any other engine for that matter. Go to the page showing HP demand at rear wheels on 6% grade: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6594.0.html BTW, there is a lot of other helpful information on the Diesel RV Club Technical Site: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php?action=forum Agree with Frank, another variable is the EPA specs that the engine meets. As happened with gasoline engines in 1975 when catalytic converters were introduced, HP and MPG both went up. Same for diesels, with most improvement in engines built after 1/1/2007. But, they newer ones are more complex and require DEF.

jbikesv, There are a number of variables involved in fuel mileage including: combined weight, speed, flat/mountains, etc. Enough that anecdotal information would likely be of little value and may even be misleading. Consider the physics of the question: If same weight, speed, terrain (i.e. all the variables are the same) MPG will be almost identical. Unlike gasoline engines, diesel engines are most efficient at low RPM, low throttle positions. Unlike gasoline engines their fuel to air ratio can vary widely. The only reason the more powerful engine would use more fuel is that you ask it to produce more power than the smaller engine is capable of doing. In our coach with Cummins ISL 400, we get very close to the same MPG as with our previous coach with smaller 300 HP diesel.