wolfe10

Like Herman, I start by cleaning the channel. Then I use silicone spray in the plastic "U" channel.

Two negative posts-- sorry. Let me start over. How long do you have? What kinds of things are you/the kids interested in? THEN we can suggest a route and things along the way.

I saw no mention on the Kia Niro in the 2017 FMCA Towing Guide. The Forte, Rio and Soul were mentioned as towable 4 wheels down with manual transmission in the January 2017 FMCA Magazine and on-line.

There are THREE options here (selecting from two different 120 VAC power sources): 1. ATS 2. An outlet in the coach where one has to manually remove the cord from one power source and plug in the other. 3. A mechanical switch such as this (very common in marine applications): https://www.bluesea.com/products/9019/AC_Rotary_Switch_-_OFF_%2B_2_Positions_240V_AC_65A

oceans351, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What did the fire department say as the cause of the problem? Wonder if there was a fuel leak? Loose connection? Rodent damage to fuel line?

Jayson, Hopefully someone else with the same coach will respond. But, not sure it matters what coach it is done in, this is a very common upgrade. There are several different methods-- some more finished looking than others. Most finished is to recess the flatscreen slightly in the existing opening and trim around it. Make sure you get a TV with front speakers or have a sound bar, as many TV's have the speakers in back. Some just use either wood or the metal premade TV mounts to cover the whole original opening. Doesn't look as finished, but easier and gives you a larger TV. On one coach I did this on, I took down the original TV cabinet and trimmed off the top and front to more exactly fit the dimensions of the flat screen TV. Then reinstalled the TV. Since neither top (ceiling) not front showed, no refinishing was needed. It all depends on how handy you are/how much you want to spend and what look you want to end up with.

No, both are close to the same capacity. But, harder to find 8D deep cycle batteries, as most are truck start batteries.

jeannie.kathy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Many (particularly RV techs) would caution against waxing the roof, as it makes footing dangerous for those working on it. And assume you have a fiberglass or aluminum roof, as waxing other types would degrade them.

Joe, Check the factory set up again, as 8D's are 12 VDC, not 6 VDC. And from the description of your needs, I agee your current setup is just fine.

rscomier, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Verify rim size is adequate for the 305's Verify that you have the additional clearance above the larger tires and between tires and chassis/axle components. If you have a Sheppard steering box, it is easily adjusted externally for max cut angle if that is needed.

Two things: 1. RV's ARE complex vehicles, so they do experience issues. 2. As you catch up on what may have been neglected maintenance AND get to know the rig better, things will calm down. I have no first hand experience with that particular ATS-- I am sure others will comment. As already posted, loose connections cause heat, causes oxidized wire causes more heat and loosening..... So whatever unit you use, once a year, take the 3 minutes it takes to check all connections.

Totally agree. But, that function should be provided by the CHASSIS battery which is still in place.

Yup, part of a good annual inspection.

James, If you pulled only the house battery (i.e. chassis battery is still in place), you can easily start the engine. And, using the boost switch you can start the generator. If you have a constant duty battery boost/battery combine switch AND solenoid, all 12 VDC house systems can be run off the chassis battery. If a momentary switch/intermittent duty solenoid, this would not work. But, you could do a hard wire "work around". Be SURE that you have the positive terminal that goes to the house bank very securely isolated from any metal (ground), as the alternator will be supplying power to that lead as well as to the chassis battery.

The Allegro 34PA is a gas coach, so fuel tank is behind the rear axle.

I applaud your interest in making sure an axle is not overloaded. Remember, fuel tank is BEHIND the rear axle, so weight in it REMOVES weight from the front axle (with the rear axle being the "fulcrum").

And, answers would be more valuable with the following information: Chassis GVWR Front axle GAWR Actual front axle weight when loads like this .......... I would also suggest the same info for the rear axle: Rear axle GAWR Actual rear axle weight when loads like this ..........

Elee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While it is unlikely the two are related, it would be a question for either Cummins (with your engine serial number) and/or Freightliner (with your VIN): Cummins 800 343-7357 Freightliner 800 385-4357

Sounds like you have one of the "smart thief" devices such as a Xantrex Echo Charger. A very common and perfectly acceptable methods of maintaining chassis battery charge.

Yes, jacks first is the more common procedure. BUT, some coach makers have theirs designed to deploy slides first. Just follow the recommendation of the coach manufacturer you choose.

I believe this is a link to the group Bill is referring to: http://www.rvingwomen.org/

You will need to consult your wiring diagram to see where you can connect to charge chassis batteries and/or house batteries. There is no industry standard-- on many, the inverter/charger does not charge the chassis battery. If you do not have a wiring diagram, contact Fleetwood with the question.

Reality, this time of year, you need to check the weather a couple of days before leaving. A very good website where you can "fast forward" through a week by day parts for weather conditions: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/centrockies.php#tabs

While that is possible, it is less likely than if you allow chassis battery voltage to drop below "operating voltage". Said another way, allowing the chassis battery to go dead and then jump start would be harder on the electronics. Yes, best is that battery voltage is good and electronics are connected. That means either solar (keeping snow off the panels) or shore power or more frequent drives than is probably reasonable in your area.

While some coaches do have a chassis battery cut off switch (our 2003 Alpine does) they are not common. You could install one or merely remove the negative terminal of the chassis battery when in storage.