wolfe10

If it is a ride height valve (and without a picture or detailed description this is just an ASSUMPTION), once air is let out to a point that proper ride height is achieved, it will stop exhausting air. If it does not, the ride height valve needs to be replaced. They are not expensive.

If these are the RIDE HEIGHT VALVES, they are basically a three position valve: Let air into the air bag(s) Do nothing Let air out of the air bag(s). So, indeed, if you are talking about the ride height valves, if ride height is too high, it WILL (and should) let air out. The ride height valve will have a mechanical link/rod from axle to the valve so that it maintains the correct ride height.

Since the OP has already made the decision/bought the marine batteries, probably no need for us to make recommendations as to the viability of the two types. Just make sure they are wired properly and his inverter/charger is programmed properly for them.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is it the coolant filter or the filter base that is cracked? If the filter base, Cummins has an excellent, free site for parts as well as service information. It is called "Cummins QuickServe Online". The correct filter is more of a question mark. The filter depends on what type of coolant you have ("low silicate for diesel with added SCA" OR one of the new generation coolants that do not use added SCA). If the former, you need to test the coolant (test strips are available at most diesel shops and I will have them when I present at the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminar at Chandler). The test strips test SCA concentration, freeze point and pH. The filters come with different amounts of SCA. So for one of the new generation coolants, you would use a filter BLANK which is a filter with no SCA. If your coolant does require SCA, the test strips will tell you how many units you need to add. Said another way, the coolant filter is one of the few filters where you do NOT ALWAYS GO BACK WITH THE SAME FILTER NUMBER.

Positive of house to positive of battery #1 to positive of battery #2 to positive of battery #3 to positive of battery #4. House ground to negative of battery #4 to negative of battery #3 to negative of battery #2 to negative of battery #1. Yes, there are some more complex configurations, but this is the basically accepted way to wire 4 batteries in parallel.

If they are wet cell, as were the old ones (i.e. same technology) then no reprogramming for that part is needed. If total amp-hrs @ 12 VDC is the same or close to the same, no reprogramming for that part is needed.

Couple of points: You might verify that indeed these 12 VDC batteries are DEEP CYCLE batteries, as most "marine" batteries are start/deep cycle batteries (read that compromise of the two) with thinner plates not really meant for extended deep cycle work. Yes, your inverter/charger always needs to be re-programmed if battery technology, bank size (amp-hrs) or temperature changes (unless you have the remote, optional temperature sensor). An easy job from most Xantrex remote panels.

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

OK, we have a time and place for the Forum Meet & Greet Wednesday, March 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m., Seminar 2 Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

While silicone hoses do have advantages, they are more difficult to seal than other high-end hoses. Gates green stripe is what I use: http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/fleet-and-heavy-duty/hd-cooling-system/hd-coolant-hose/green-stripe-4-ply-coolant-hose

Like any chassis, there are trade-offs. A FRED really combines many attributes of gas chassis (suspension, brakes, etc) with the diesel engine in front, front radiator and Allison transmission.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. The more specific you are in terms of exactly what coach you want, the less picky you can likely be in terms of location, condition, etc. Basically, you will be ahead if you avoid coaches that have been driven up north where there is salt on the roads. Few RV's are properly protected against the ravages of salt corrosion.

Are you referring to when the air pressure warning light/alarm comes on or when the spring brake actually applies??? This from the Texas CDL manual page 73. Section 5.1.14: 5.1.14 – Spring Brakes All trucks, truck tractors, and buses must be equipped with emergency brakes and parking brakes. They must be held on by mechanical force (because air pressure can eventually leak away). Spring brakes are usually used to meet these needs. When driving, powerful springs are held back by air pressure. If the air pressure is removed, the springs put on the brakes. A parking brake control in the cab allows the driver to let the air out of the spring brakes. This lets the springs put the brakes on. A leak in the air brake system, which causes all the air to be lost, will also cause the springs to put on the brakes. Tractor and straight truck spring brakes will come fully on when air pressure drops to a range of 20 to 45 psi (typically 20 to 30 psi). Do not wait for the brakes to come on automatically. When the low air pressure warning light and buzzer first come on, bring the vehicle to a safe stop right away, while you can still control the brakes. The braking power of spring brakes depends on the brakes being in adjustment. If the brakes are not adjusted properly, neither the regular brakes nor the emergency/parking brakes will work right.

No question, the Invisibrake takes a lot more to install-- ONE TIME ONLY. Once installed, there is nothing to move or set up. We are on our second toad with the Invisibrake and like not having to haul a box around and set it up each time we want to tow or use the toad. And, many vehicles do not have room under the hood for an M&G or other "under hood" alternative. No question, there is no one ideal toad brake-- that is why some companies offer a number of different choices. If we changed toads every year or so, the Invisibrake would not even be in consideration.

You may have two unrelated problems. Suspect the rapid 0-230 PSI on the gauge was a gauge, not actual air pressure issue. Were this to happen while driving, when it dropped below about 30 PSI, the parking brake would have come on. And I am not aware of any engine-driven compressor on an RV capable of "rapid 0-230 PSI". Particularly if humid or wet when parked, it is not uncommon for the brake shoe to "rust itself" to the drum. In most cases this can be freed by putting the transmission in D and using a little throttle. Then N. Then R and a little throttle. Do not go from D with throttle to R with throttle without returning engine to idle and going through N. If this does not work, you may need to use a hammer to shock the shoes loose. Be SURE TO USE SAFETY STANDS AND BLOCK THE WHEELS SO ONCE FREED UP IT WILL NOT ROLL. Yes, you could have a more serious problem, but start with diagnosing the easy stuff.

GOOD CATCH. We were all addressing the engine compression brake question without even considering the engine. The Cummins ISL is the smallest Cummins that can be equipped with an engine compression brake. You are absolutely correct, the Cummins C engine can NOT be equipped with an engine compression brake. It would have an EXHAUST BRAKE. And, yes and exhaust brake raises back pressure on the exhaust (basically like a potato stuffed in the tailpipe) and therefore crankcase pressure. But, a properly functioning exhaust brake (not producing excessive back pressure) with properly functioning engine should not produce excessive oil from the crankcase vent hose.

While a 12 VDC feed line from the coach is a great idea, it is NOT sufficient to directly power the Brake Buddy with no battery in the toad as a "storage device". The purpose of the feed line is to keep the toad battery charged. The short term, high amp draw of the Brake Buddy would cause an unacceptable voltage drop were it to be powered directly from long wires with connectors from the coach. While a little more complex to initially install, if a vehicle calls for a battery disconnect while being towed (I have NOT researched your particular vehicle), you could: Install a battery disconnect on the positive side of the toad battery. It will have an IN and OUT lug/connection. On the IN side would be the toad battery AND the wire to power the Brake Buddy. On the OUT side would be the toad electrical system (which you removed from the positive battery terminal).

Herman, While a jumper cable will work, it is quite a lot more dangerous, as you are dealing with large-gauge wires "powered by" large battery banks. If the jumper comes off and touches any metal (ground), bad things can happen. You don't want to be "arc welding" driving down the road. And just a dangerous, if the jumper comes off, you loose all power and are dead on the road right there. Much safer to remove one large wire and ADD it to the other large wire/lug. Electrically the same, but a lot safer.

Answering these questions will allow us to give you much more accurate information.

Bill, Totally agree-- there are some easy/safe "work arounds". Safest is to remove the cable from one large lug and ADD IT to the other large lug. Now the ignition is on all the time until you disconnect it. So you can not shut off the engine without disconnecting. But MUCH better than being stranded on the side of the road! Jumper wires can be tricky, as there are a lot of amps available from the chassis battery. If one end jumps off and hits ground-- WOW!

Residential refrigerator or absorption? Running propane heater? What are 120 VAC things are you running on inverter? If nothing, turn inverter OFF, as it takes some power just on stand by. How many days are you dry camping (if one or two, very different answer than if for a week or more as for a short time, you can discharge more deeply and only recharge to 85%)?

If nothing that only works with the ignition switch on is not working, first suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. The ignition switch just provided the power to close the solenoid. It will likely be in the forward electrical area. One large lug has 12+ VDC all the time from the chassis battery. The other large lug should be hot/same voltage only when the ignition switch is ON. There will be either one or two small wires/terminals as well. If one, it receives 12 VDC + from the ignition switch when you turn the key. If two, one is the one just mentioned, the other a ground. If only one, the body of the solenoid provides the ground.

Need to download the codes-- our guessing will not be helpful and will just as likely to lead you in the wrong direction.

Certainly, the next time you change oil, calibrate the engine oil dipstick. To verify that it really is blow by, hang an old coffee can or similar under the open crankcase vent hose. I have tried to wrap my head around how the engine compression brake could cause excessive crankcase blowby-- can't get there. Opening the exhaust valves at the end of the compression stroke allows compression to escape to the exhaust. If anything there would be less pressure past the rings than on normal combustion where you not only don't release compression, but also have combustion/explosion in the cylinders.