wolfe10

Carl, et al; That question (why did they try to save a few nickels on a $200k+ coach) comes up all the time when I present the Suspensions/Coach Ride & Handling seminars at the FMCA Conventions. The answer is they DO know their business. If two competing manufacturers in the same market. One spends $2000 more on suspension and other things "less visible" and the other spends the $2000 on upgrading interior fabrics. Who sells more coaches. It is a good business decision. Same goes for rear vs side radiator, barely adequate tire size.......

OK, let me suggest that this thread is unlikely to move in a positive direction. My suggestion is that anyone interested in having work done at Red Bay contact Tiffin directly. I am going to lock this thread-- personal comments are not conducive to the friendly atmosphere we have here on the FMCA Forum. Thanks for understanding. Moderator

But, you do NOT want to combine the two: Rain and large scoop facing forward! Drowning your air filter is not a good way to gain performance!

The direct link I use (to unread posts) works just fine/as it always has: http://community.fmca.com/discover/unread/

And, has the source of the leak been found and fixed? Damon should be able to give you suggestions on how it is built and how to best repair it.

Sorry for my miscue, the first picture looked like the upper walls were OSB (Oriented Strand Board). Here is what they look like: http://www.homedepot.com/p/7-16-in-x-48-in-x-8ft-Oriented-Strand-Board-386081/202106230 Let us know what the manufacturer recommends. Thanks.

rv2dan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you know what causes the damage-- also looks like naked OSB on the upper walls??? Two fixes I now are to cut/strip it all out and start over-- a MAJOR JOB. Or install more battens to hold it up. Wouldn't hurt to e-mail these pictures to your coach maker and ask for their suggestion.

Last "issue" was with the outside server, not FMCA. One of the reasons FMCA has determined to move the FMCA Forum in-house!

That is not the most common size, but there are coaches with that as the OE. Your GVWR sticker will (by law) list the OE tire size. Note, 295/75R22.5 and 275/80R22.5 are very close in size and both are available in both G and H load ranges. Many consider the two sizes interchangeable.

Toney, Best advice, tomorrow, consult the manufacturer of the sending unit. They can tell you if there is polarity to their sending unit or if it is just a resistance circuit and polarity does not matter. MUCH better than our speculation.

Art, Actually, we are back home. Back on the road after the first of the year-- headed to AZ to present Maintenance Seminars for the Diesel RV Club Rally in Goodyear AZ February 26- March 3. 2017: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575 Then on to the FMCA Convention to present more seminars in Chandler.

Art, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A digital voltmeter (they start under $20) will tell you very quickly. Measure voltage on each bank before starting the engine (shore power disconnected, generator off). Start engine and increase to 1,000 RPM. Re-measure voltage at each battery bank.

CarpeDiem, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us more about your bus-- engine, transmission, who converted it..... And, what type of information are you looking for?

You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with the engine serial number for all the facts on that engine-- even what HP it made on a dyno before leaving the factory and any work done on it that dealer's informed Caterpillar Corp of: 877 777-3126.

Steve, No, L-7 just means the transmission fluid is not hot enough for it to do an accurate fluid level analysis. To get to diagnostic codes, you need to push the up and down arrows at the same time AGAIN. Let us know what you find.

http://community.fmca.com/search/?type=all&q=Sumo

Actually, most modern engines (gas and diesel) will store fault codes. They will show as either active or stored codes-- active will have the check light on. But, stored codes may never even turn on the check light. All should be readable with the correct interface and some gauges like Silverleaf and ScanGauge D.

Start by adjusting tag load-- will need scales to do it properly. And some chassis make this adjustment easy, others not. What coach do you have--best to put it in your signature so answers are more tailored to your coach. Ride height can certainly affect not just ride and handling but alignment as well-- depends on suspension design. Ideal is to have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. It is a balancing act.

Anders, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is a substitute from a very knowledgeable company-- they may also have other suggestions, as they repair as well as sell: http://www.rvcams.com/p/VCB-MHD1-Kit.html

12.0+ VDC. Really, it should be within a few tenths of a volt of house battery voltage. Make sure the wire connections (back of refrigerator are clean (not corroded) and tight. If the wire is not clean copper, cut off a little of it, exposing clean wire.

Ya, Rich, wouldn't want Lois to get pantry envy. Of course, if the whole pantry is full, you might get more treats.

Thanks, Todd. I know you spent a lot of time yesterday working with the FMCA Forum host to get us back up. Just so everyone knows, EVERYONE experienced exactly the same issues-- had nothing to do with anyone's computer/equipment.

Or, custom build one-- probably much better space utilization. Here is one I built in our coach with full length rollers:

Actually always 3, many times 4 or 5 and this is just the "12 VDC side of things". You also have a 120 VAC system. The two overlap in the converter, inverter and/or inverter charger: All have: Alternator charges both house and chassis batteries. Converter, charger or inverter/charger charges house bank and SOMETIMES chassis bank Many have in addition: Supplemental system for charging the chassis battery-- could be stand alone smart charger (small amp output) or "smart thief" device that takes power from the house bank to charge the chassis bank when house bank is above a certain voltage. Solar panel and (hopefully) smart controller can be wired to charge either or both banks.

Yup, one of the several good ways to do it. But as you said, there are a NUMBER of ways it could be done (or not done). Winnebago should be his next call or look it up in his owners manual.