wolfe10

Renee, Even if you are below GVWR, you might want to consider options before adding that much "ballast" to the coach. There are some high quality products that look very similar to the much heavier tile but are a fraction of the weight. Most can be installed grouted or non-grouted. Here is one:http://www.congoleum.com/product_options.php?collection=DuraCeramic

Here is contact information on the guy Herman is referring to: Allison ECU and shift pad repair: John Kopalek. 866 439 9779 http://www.transmissioninstruments.com/

I contacted a friend who is a retired Caterpillar tech. Here is his reply: " What you have is a copper sleeve in the head for each injector and one of the copper sleeves is cracked. This is allowing Diesel fuel to go into the coolant because diesel fuel pressure is higher than the cooling system pressure. We used to replaced the copper sleeves in the field but anymore Cat will want to exchange the head with another loaded head." You might check with a local Caterpillar dealer to see what the cost difference would be between a reman head and replacing the copper injector sleeves (if the copper sleeves are still available and they are able to do it).

Wonder if the dryer was WAY past due for servicing. Maybe water or worse filter media got in the system-- can certainly contaminate the check valves. Look forward to hearing what you find in the wet tank drain. Good luck with it.

Deen, Sorry to hear about your loss. If you will be in AZ this winter, let us know-- would look forward to seeing you again. Dianne and I will be at the Diesel RV Club Rally February 26- March 3. 2017: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575. Then on to the FMCA Convention in Chandler. Brett

Yes, there are high-end DP's in the 36' range. Foretravel, Country Coach and others made them. Roughly what price range are you interested in and perhaps we can post some examples?

Were it me, I would have them install the pump, verify that all is working and then YOU drive it, keeping a close eye on temperature. Start with a 2-3 mile and back to dealership (unless you are able to check for coolant and oil leaks from engine and check coolant for oil and oil for coolant. Do a couple of more runs with more miles and declare it good to go. Yes, you are running a small additional risk if you drive with coolant in oil or oil in coolant, but checking these is likely what they would be doing.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With the Caterpillar 3126, oil capacity would depend on whether you have the shallow or deep pan. Please copy down your engine serial number and call the Caterpillar RV Hotline at 877 777-3126. They can tell you with certainty. OIl-- two very popular choices you can get anywhere (like Walmart): Shell Rotella T 15-40. Delo 400 15-40. You will have no problem finding the oil drain plug. Don't know where your oil fill is.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you called Blue Ox to verify that as of today they do not have one-- if you just checked online it may not be up to date. You might check with other tow equipment manufacturers to see if they have a base plate and if so, is it different than that for previous years. Roadmaster has a pretty good website for checking or give them a call. Also have installation instructions for each on-line. That may be enough info to crawl under to see if one for the older model will work on yours.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. While you don't say how handy you are, you should easily be able to identify the source of that massive a leak. Then decide if it is something you can tackle or something you need a professional to address. Do NOT even consider driving it until this is fixed. With air brakes, if the leak is on a brake circuit, when air pressure drops, the emergency brake will automatically apply.

Bill, Thanks for the heads up. A good value for anyone looking for Group 31 start batteries.

Many HWH systems have a fuse near the hydraulic pump. Check out Rich's links.

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In addition to what transmission you have/ what chassis, can you select either D or R by playing with the shifter? Any burned smell to the transmission fluid? How many miles on it?

Honda does not show the 2004 Odssey as being towable 4 wheels down.

It is going to be hard for us to "arm chair" diagnose this. And, no idea of they have techs familiar with your engine. Were it me, I would check out the local Caterpillar dealer. Kind of like going to a cardiac surgeon for open heart surgery, not a GP. The Caterpillar dealer probably does more Caterpillar 3126 work in a week than a chassis dealer does in a month. This may not be the case where you are, but certainly worth checking out.

OK, you do have a bell crank-- check it along with the rest of the steering linkage. Fine a helper. They will sit in the driver's seat. With engine OFF, they will turn the steering wheel back and forth (right/left). You will look under the coach, starting driver's side well in front of the driver's front tire. You want to verify that every movement coming out of the steering box moves the "next component" exactly the same amount. Said another way, that there is no play in any of the joints. You will look at front and back of drag link, bell crank (make sure it only allows fore/aft movement, and no side to side play, continue back to left steering knuckle. Then both ends of the tie rod (easiest to see from just behind the front wheels). Indeed, no that chassis also check the sway bar end link bushings (if there is any light between bushing and washer or sway bar) the sway bar can not do its job. Replacement is very easy-- no heavy lifting. Do upgrade to polyurethane bushings if replacing them.

What chassis? Some have bell cranks, others do not. Several very different styles of sway bar bushings. Describing one will only confuse if you have the other. This is why I asked.

What chassis? How many miles on it? Have you checked for play in the steering linkage? If not, let us know and we can detail how YOU can do it very easily.

Carl, et al; That question (why did they try to save a few nickels on a $200k+ coach) comes up all the time when I present the Suspensions/Coach Ride & Handling seminars at the FMCA Conventions. The answer is they DO know their business. If two competing manufacturers in the same market. One spends $2000 more on suspension and other things "less visible" and the other spends the $2000 on upgrading interior fabrics. Who sells more coaches. It is a good business decision. Same goes for rear vs side radiator, barely adequate tire size.......

OK, let me suggest that this thread is unlikely to move in a positive direction. My suggestion is that anyone interested in having work done at Red Bay contact Tiffin directly. I am going to lock this thread-- personal comments are not conducive to the friendly atmosphere we have here on the FMCA Forum. Thanks for understanding. Moderator

But, you do NOT want to combine the two: Rain and large scoop facing forward! Drowning your air filter is not a good way to gain performance!

The direct link I use (to unread posts) works just fine/as it always has: http://community.fmca.com/discover/unread/

And, has the source of the leak been found and fixed? Damon should be able to give you suggestions on how it is built and how to best repair it.

Sorry for my miscue, the first picture looked like the upper walls were OSB (Oriented Strand Board). Here is what they look like: http://www.homedepot.com/p/7-16-in-x-48-in-x-8ft-Oriented-Strand-Board-386081/202106230 Let us know what the manufacturer recommends. Thanks.

rv2dan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you know what causes the damage-- also looks like naked OSB on the upper walls??? Two fixes I now are to cut/strip it all out and start over-- a MAJOR JOB. Or install more battens to hold it up. Wouldn't hurt to e-mail these pictures to your coach maker and ask for their suggestion.