wolfe10

Last "issue" was with the outside server, not FMCA. One of the reasons FMCA has determined to move the FMCA Forum in-house!

That is not the most common size, but there are coaches with that as the OE. Your GVWR sticker will (by law) list the OE tire size. Note, 295/75R22.5 and 275/80R22.5 are very close in size and both are available in both G and H load ranges. Many consider the two sizes interchangeable.

Toney, Best advice, tomorrow, consult the manufacturer of the sending unit. They can tell you if there is polarity to their sending unit or if it is just a resistance circuit and polarity does not matter. MUCH better than our speculation.

Art, Actually, we are back home. Back on the road after the first of the year-- headed to AZ to present Maintenance Seminars for the Diesel RV Club Rally in Goodyear AZ February 26- March 3. 2017: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575 Then on to the FMCA Convention to present more seminars in Chandler.

Art, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A digital voltmeter (they start under $20) will tell you very quickly. Measure voltage on each bank before starting the engine (shore power disconnected, generator off). Start engine and increase to 1,000 RPM. Re-measure voltage at each battery bank.

CarpeDiem, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us more about your bus-- engine, transmission, who converted it..... And, what type of information are you looking for?

You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with the engine serial number for all the facts on that engine-- even what HP it made on a dyno before leaving the factory and any work done on it that dealer's informed Caterpillar Corp of: 877 777-3126.

Steve, No, L-7 just means the transmission fluid is not hot enough for it to do an accurate fluid level analysis. To get to diagnostic codes, you need to push the up and down arrows at the same time AGAIN. Let us know what you find.

http://community.fmca.com/search/?type=all&q=Sumo

Actually, most modern engines (gas and diesel) will store fault codes. They will show as either active or stored codes-- active will have the check light on. But, stored codes may never even turn on the check light. All should be readable with the correct interface and some gauges like Silverleaf and ScanGauge D.

Start by adjusting tag load-- will need scales to do it properly. And some chassis make this adjustment easy, others not. What coach do you have--best to put it in your signature so answers are more tailored to your coach. Ride height can certainly affect not just ride and handling but alignment as well-- depends on suspension design. Ideal is to have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. It is a balancing act.

Anders, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is a substitute from a very knowledgeable company-- they may also have other suggestions, as they repair as well as sell: http://www.rvcams.com/p/VCB-MHD1-Kit.html

12.0+ VDC. Really, it should be within a few tenths of a volt of house battery voltage. Make sure the wire connections (back of refrigerator are clean (not corroded) and tight. If the wire is not clean copper, cut off a little of it, exposing clean wire.

Ya, Rich, wouldn't want Lois to get pantry envy. Of course, if the whole pantry is full, you might get more treats.

Thanks, Todd. I know you spent a lot of time yesterday working with the FMCA Forum host to get us back up. Just so everyone knows, EVERYONE experienced exactly the same issues-- had nothing to do with anyone's computer/equipment.

Or, custom build one-- probably much better space utilization. Here is one I built in our coach with full length rollers:

Actually always 3, many times 4 or 5 and this is just the "12 VDC side of things". You also have a 120 VAC system. The two overlap in the converter, inverter and/or inverter charger: All have: Alternator charges both house and chassis batteries. Converter, charger or inverter/charger charges house bank and SOMETIMES chassis bank Many have in addition: Supplemental system for charging the chassis battery-- could be stand alone smart charger (small amp output) or "smart thief" device that takes power from the house bank to charge the chassis bank when house bank is above a certain voltage. Solar panel and (hopefully) smart controller can be wired to charge either or both banks.

Yup, one of the several good ways to do it. But as you said, there are a NUMBER of ways it could be done (or not done). Winnebago should be his next call or look it up in his owners manual.

The converter or inverter/charger ALWAYS charges the house battery bank. SOMETIMES the coach maker installs a device (several different kinds) that also charge the chassis battery from shore power or generator. You need to check with your coach maker to verify how yours is set up. We can also give you easy instructions on how to verify this with a digital voltmeter. The alternator charges both battery banks in all RV's I have ever worked on.

Yup, check belt first, then thermostat.

Wayne, This is really a nebulous issue. I doubt 20% of the signs or 10% of employees REALLY know the B content of the last tanker if fuel they received. In many cases (excluding states where Bio content is "legislated") could be written-- maximum of ........ We have had some petroleum engineers on here and on the Diesel RV Club Forum and the answer seems to come up (in the absence of legislature mandated bio) it depends on the commodity price of bio vs dino diesel at the time of the order. I have NO first hand info on this topic, but, like you would sure prefer to stay away from Biodiesel, particularly when getting ready to store the coach. Those with first hand knowledge PLEASE RESPOND!

jmkidwill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We can be of more assistance if we know what kind of coach (gas vs diesel) and what kind of work you need performed (house systems, chassis, engine, etc).

Yes, I had to do the parallel park to get my license in Texas as well. NOT a big issue. To be specific: To start test, had to back up straight for 150'. Pull forward to beginning point and then back into parallel park space. Parking space was plenty long enough-- 18 wheelers use the same space, at least at the DMV I went to. Then do a driving test. To practice parallel parking, just grabbed a couple of cardboard boxes and when to an empty parking lot. 5 minutes and I had down how to do it.

While in the shop, have them check for worn components before spending money on upgrading. Things like sway bar bushings are pretty high failure rate items and not that expensive to replace. For being pushed around in the wind/by 18 wheelers, with a gas chassis, first thing I would add would be a rear track bar/panhard rod. And, yes both Bilstein and Koni have better shocks than the OE which were speced on COST, not necessarily quality.

markletheridge, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I agree with you, I would certainly keep coolant temperature below 220 degrees F. While slowing down will help, be sure you climb long grades in a gear that keeps engine RPM in the upper half of its RPM range. So, for your ISC 2000- 2100 RPM. that turns the water pump and fan faster. Also, if you find yourself in a gear where you can not accelerate, drop a gear.