wolfe10

I just installed mine as the outermost piece of the cooling package (in front of CAC and radiator). This is with a side radiator coach. That location would not work on a rear radiator coach. Dianne made a cover for it with velcro so in freezing temperatures it would not super-cool the fuel. Just need the cooler and a length of fuel return hose to go from the engine to the cooler. Then use the original return line from there to tank. You could also install it up front in the windstream just forward of the tank. Would probably require two new hoses: one to extend the original line forward and one from the cooler back to the tank.

Correct, diesel does not require external venting. BUT (ya a pretty big but), if air flow is inhibited, you may need/want to add a fuel cooler (basically a transmission cooler in the return line), as fuel temperatures can rise from recirculated fuel and inadequate air flow over the tank. I had exactly this issue on our Foretravel which had the diesel tank in a bay (unibody). Before the fuel cooler, if below a 1/2 tank on a hot day, the tank would be almost too hot to touch. The transmission cooler I installed in the return line brought tank temperatures down almost to ambient.

Jeff, Yes, Roger Marble was pretty busy at the Convention-- between committee meetings (2 that I know of) and the seminars he gave, it did not leave much time. I believe he left on Saturday for another commitment. Brett

Jeff, If swapping front tires materially changed tracking, do not leave Springfield until you have had the tires inspected by a COMPETENT tire dealer. I would check with a couple of OTR truck repair facilities for their recommendation on a shop, or better the name of a tire expert.

Bruce, Fully charge them and then go to any place that sells batteries and have them LOAD TEST the batteries. Only accurate test is when they are fully charged. If wet cell batteries, make sure that the water (actually acid) level is correct. Add distilled water BEFORE charging if low.

wirite, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please keep us posted on their formal responses to this. Sounds like the current answer is "light years" from what is in the manual. Hope it works out as you hope. In the reply, they said " manual das not work. " Are they taking about manual transmission or owners manual???

Bill, I am not a fan of torquing most of them. Better idea is to torque until the gasket is compressed to half it's original height. Too loose OR crushed, it will leak.

Bill, Are you talking about torquing the roof A/C unit? Is that 50 INCH-lbs?

Thanks, Carl. Knew there was a familial relationship, but believe they were totally separate companies. Over the years, a reasonable number of father/sons in the RV business-- here are a couple of others that come to mind: The Fore family (Foretravel) Doyle family (Alpinlite/Alpine) Perlot family (Safari/Silverleaf) Tiffin (Tiffin/Tiffin and Vanleigh RV 5 wheels)

Am not aware of ANY connection between Alfa and Fleetwood.

Carl, Yes, if the 8 batteries are divided in two 4 battery banks, one bank to each inverter, your total amp-hr per bank/per inverter is 464 amp-hrs@12 VDC. Of course, for best battery life, you don't want to discharge below 50%. So that gives you a usable amount of about 232 amp-hrs @12 VDC per inverter.

hdsechols, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Of the non-functioning systems, certainly the dash A/C and wipers are in the ignition-controlled circuits. Power seats could be or could be in the house battery bank. What solenoid did you change? Was it the ignition solenoid? And, did you go back with the correct amp-rated solenoid and verify that it is a "constant duty" and not "intermittent duty" solenoid?

Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building) See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building) See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

Sorry, I do not know the answer. Were I to get into any major change, I would sure involve BOTH a senior Cummins tech (i.e. hands on with your engine family) AND a Cummins engineer.

Let me ask for everyone's help on something: Because many members use the "search" function to find answers to their questions, PLEASE, let's stick to the original topic. Having a good discussion of another topic than the original will not show up if someone is doing a search. Starting a new topic IS THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT. THANKS. Moderator

chudgens, Yes, I am sure they can get you in. Calling FMCA in the morning will get you a lot of details on the WHEN. As far as what is available, here is what was on the list, but again, need to call to conform availability of what you want. http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/west-springfield-2016/register-now.html

And, my 2003 ISL has a 180 degree thermostat and runs very close to that unless a long steep grade where it rises a few degrees until the fan (side radiator) turns on HIGH. Again, best advice is to call Cummins to determine what is correct for YOUR engine.

Fthorwart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to call Cummins with your engine serial number. They can give you the proper operating temperature. If you have a side radiator and/or rear radiator with fan controller, temperature will vary between thermostatically controlled temperature and 5-10 degrees higher where the fan kicks to high speed. Cummins 800 343-7357 To locate your engine serial number: In general, Cummins engine serial numbers consist of eight (8) digits, e.g. 79012323 ISC and ISL: The dataplate is located on the top side of the gear housing.

Surge protectors are a reasonable upgrade. Not mandatory, but if you are not comfortable checking power before plugging in and monitoring it while on shore power, a reasonable idea. A tire pressure monitor system that monitors just PSI is absolutely fine. The Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) applies. Said another way, in a given V (volume) when temperature rises, pressure rises. And visa versa. So, monitoring just PSI is perfect. And, do not get an oil sample until you are ready to change oil. Sending in new/clean oil is just a waste of $$-- it will always test good. Sure, if you see signs if issues such as coolant in the oil, that is a different matter. But, that is VERY rare on these larger diesels.

Yes, the wet kit is a MUST for the PTO-driven hydraulic pump. Hopefully it has not yet been damaged by lack of lubrication.

Michael, Assume you have checked coolant level, not just in the overflow jug but also in the radiator. What chassis do you have? Did they work on the cooling system/open the cooling system?

Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building)

Roy, Are you attending the W. Springfield FMCA Convention? If so, I will be presenting the Suspension, coach ride and handling Seminar. We go into detail on suspensions-- basically there is NO silver bullet that fixes all ride and handling issues. Tires, tire pressure, shocks, sway bars and sway bar bushings, steering components with no play, track bars/panhard rods, etc all work together. Suspensions Thursday, Aug 4, 1:15 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building)

As Herman mentioned Forum Members get together at the FMCA Conventions. So, in W. Springfield: Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building)