wolfe10

Actually, I would not steam clean any electronically controlled engine. Many plugs are water-RESISTANT. High pressure water/steam-- no. I would use WD40 and a couple of rolls of paper towel to clean the engine.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, there were indeed issues with the Monaco (who owned Safari when your coach was built) aluminum radiators. Here is another alternative to the aluminum radiator: http://sourcerv.com/radiators And, your other items (answers in SOLID LETTER CAPS) Belts and hoses: CHECK CONDITION OF HOSES-- IF SILICONE, PROBABLY JUST FINE. YES, REPLACE BOTH WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR BELTS. CHECK/REPLACE AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTLV5IU_IMM New Thermostat-- YES. CATERPILLAR CALLS THEM REGULATORS. MAY HAVE ONE OR MAY HAVE TWO. THEY WOULD BE IN THE SAME HOUSING. GO TO ANY CATERPILLAR DEALER WITH YOUR ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER FOR THE CORRECT REGULATOR(S) AND GASKET. Check water pump, (not sure how they do that). SURE, CHECK WEEP HOLE FOR LEAKING COOLANT, BUT THESE HAVE NOT BEEN PROBLEMATIC UNLESS COOLANT NOT CHANGED. MAKE SURE THAT THEY FLUSH AND PUT IN NEW COOLANT WHEN THEY DO THIS. CATERPILLAR ELC IS THE NEW-GENERATION, MAINTENANCE-FREE COOLANT FROM CATERPILLAR. Check Alt: DEPENDING ON YOUR FLOORPLAN, LIKELY EASY TO GET TO FROM ABOVE (BEDROOM/CLOSET). SO, NOT SURE I WOULD DO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, UNLESS OVER 100K MILES. THEN HAVE AN ALTERNATOR SHOP DO BEARINGS AND BRUSHES. Redirect the Crank Case Breather tube ( it hangs strait down now). EASY FOR YOU/THEM TO DO. BREATHER HOSE IS 1" ID. SO, 1" BARB TO BARB FITTING, 4' OF 1" ID HOSE, A COUPLE OF HOSE CLAMPS AND A COUPLE OF ZIP TIES. JUST MAKE SURE THE HOSE DOES NOT HAVE A DRIP LOOP THAT COULD TRAP MOISTURE. EXTEND TO BEHIND THE FAN SHROUD, SO OIL VAPOR NOT DRAWN INTO THE COOLING PACKAGE. ALSO, MAKE SURE THEY PULL AND CLEAN THE CAC (CHARGE AIR COOLER) AS THAT IS WHERE THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE DIRT WILL BE DEPOSITED.

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This Michelin guide gives the "facts" on their tires. The two are quite a lot different in size, revolutions per mile, etc: https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bcontent/PDF/RV_Tires_Brochure.pdf

"Towing 4 wheels down" can be "not approved" for two reasons: Mechanical reasons. Liability/legal reasons. Mazda has never (to my knowledge) approved towing, though some of the mechanically identical Ford models were. Sorry, I do not known which makes the Mazda 2 "recommended not towable".

Particularly if you are in the coach/full timing, bypassing the "salesman switch" is a fine idea. Some are mechanical, some are switches that control a relay.

We ran Michelin XZE on our last two motorhomes-- worked just fine and much easier to find than XRV's.

As mentioned, a hard start capacitor on each A/C will materially reduce the initial amp load. They are NOT expensive or difficult to install (once on the roof).

Sure, I guess it could be an A/C unit issue. But with the A/C working properly on shore power the generator would be my first "point of diagnosis" Actually, the first thing I would do is change the fuel filter. It is during high-demand times (picking up a heavy load for instance) that restricted fuel flow will cause issues.

Actually, the "do you have an anode/anode needing replacement" is only if you have a Suburban water heater. With an Atwood water heater, they only recommend using the nylon drain plug, as the Atwood tank is aluminum. Steel threads of an anode do not "play nice" with the soft aluminum threads of the tank.

Habart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would caution AGAINST a diode (at least a "regular"/inexpensive diode) in the charge line. There is approximately a .7 VDC loss across a diode. With the long, often small-gauge wire used from coach chassis battery to toad battery, you already have some voltage loss. If you are concerned about "backfeeding", a better solution is to use a RELAY at the coach end of the charge line. Have an ignition ON signal to close the relay. So, the two batteries are only connected when the coach ignition is on.

gz21702, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure it makes sense that there would be any different supply issue between Advantage and non-advantage dealers. And, if they have been on back order that long, a VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION is: "What age are the tires". Important because as you are doing right now, they will be replaced based more on time than tread wear. Easy to tell: Molded into one sidewall of each tire is the complete DOT number. The last 4 digits are usually in a raised/indented area, as that part of the mold is changed weekly. The last 4 digits indicate the WEEK and YEAR of production. So, 2715 were made the 27th week of 2015. I would not want to pay for tires more than 3 months old. Be sure to research the size and carrying capacity aspects of any potential tire change.

isrenfro, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. And, yes, 50 amp RV service is TWO 50 amp hots. So, if you pay attention to balancing the loads, you could add the load of a "third" A/C (two basement compressors and roof A/C. As to what would be involved in pulling romex from your coach 120 VAC panel, availability of additional breaker, etc, I have no knowledge. Another option would be to have the additional A/C run on a separate 20 amp circuit that you could power with a separate 20 amp shore power cord (many CG's with 50 amp service also have 30 and 15/20 outlets on the pedestal).

Sometimes, it is difficult to differentiate between black smoke (unburned fuel at start up on a diesel) and blue smoke (yes, most likely oil). But, my answer would be to do NOTHING at this point. Wait for warm weather and start it. Pay very close attention to both color and smell of exhaust. Burning oil smells very different than unburned diesel. If unburned fuel, could be just cold temperatures, or could be bad glow plug(s). Easy to check glow plugs and glow plug relay once generator is accessed.

There are several variables when choosing a route: Weather Coach and it's capabilities-- an overloaded older gas coach is VERY different than a DP with engine compression brake! AND MOST IMPORTANT: Driver's experience with driving heavy vehicles in tight conditions with 7+% grades. Said another way, if you are a retired truck driver from Denver, you are "good to go" is a lot less coach than a newbie with a DP with engine compression brake. So this is probably the most important element, and one where we can NOT evaluate your ability to safely drive a route. Not unlike taking a guy from southern states and putting them in the middle of a snow storm-- all drivers are NOT equal.

jsramback, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would contact Country Coach for your ride height specs unless you find them in your owners manual. They would also be likely to be able to provide you with the best shock for your chassis. If not, you might contact Koni for their recommendation-- very possible there have been improvements/updated shocks since your chassis was built. Koni Shocks (866) 566-4175. Justin McCoy is head of the motorhome division and is very knowledgeable.

We are on our second toad and second DP with hydraulic brakes. For both, we have found the http://roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/invisibrake/index.html to be effective, nothing to move in and out and trouble-free.

George, Yes, you could have a bad battery, but the place I would start is VERIFYING that there is no draw on the batteries while in storage. No basement lights left on, inverter not on standby...... You will need a higher end meter as most digital VOM's have a limited amp range.

IMO, ideal motorhome (as well as boat): Drinks 6 Eats 4 Sleeps 2 with an additional two in a pinch Large, workable galley a must-- Dianne likes to cook and I like to eat.

While tires on an axle need to be the same (size, make and model preferably) there is no problem with different axles having different size tires. Many have gone from 295 to 315 front tires for both more reserve capacity (not loaded to 100%) AND for better ride (carry same weight at lower PSI). But one has to verify that the larger tire will fit (not contact suspension or body parts at full cut angles as well as straight ahead).

David, Before going to too much trouble, you might give Cummins a call with your engine serial number-- suspect they can provide you with a copy: Cummins: 800 343-7357. BTW, engines have to comply with the standards in effect when the engine was built. So, even though a 2004 coach, it is certainly possible that the engine was built in 2003 and meets standards in effect at that time.

http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-5286-03.pdf

Carl, Perfect.

Bryan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer depends on TWO things: What chassis? How the motorhome manufacturer built the coach on top of the chassis (i.e. did they leave room either under the coach or in a basement for a tire). The only other decision is whether to carry a spare tire or spare tire already mounted on a rim. If you have the ability to change a tire yourself (weight, lug nut torque,etc) AND travel in very remote areas, the mounted spare may be the way to go. But mobile tire services are available virtually everywhere and have the equipment to mount your spare "on the side of the road".

Carl, Not sure I understand. Do you just have the block heater plugged in and ready for use before starting, or do you leave the block heater on 24/7 while in the CG?

Roland, You absolutely have the correct approach. Check weather and THEN determine best route. And, for us, if not in a huge hurry, don't hesitate to wait a day or two for the right "weather window". Learned this when sailing-- much more critical to pick a "weather window" when headed off-shore!