wolfe10

Andy, Please tell us what "device" is used to take amps from the inverter/charger to the chassis battery. In most installations, the inverter/charger charges the house batteries. Then some "device" is used to connect the house batteries to the chassis batteries. One diagnostic test I would run is to engage to boost/combine switch which connects the two battery banks. Do not use if dry camping or without shore power. If it occurs, you know the problem is not with your "device" as the boost circuit is a second pathway to chassis battery charging.

bradyjones, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Nothing special about diesel pusher air brakes. Check with any shop/parts house that specializes in OTR trucks.

Carl, Please verify that the alternator is not wired to charge BOTH battery banks. That would be highly unusual!

My mantra.

Not sure there is "I KNOW how it is wired" answer. Best advice, remove the ground/negative cable from the chassis/starter batteries and see if the generator starts.

Bill, I totally agree, they should provide this information.

The problem is not an issue with the cc card company bill. The problem is that most U.S. gas stations require a 5 digit zip code for security. Canadian zip codes do not follow the same 5 digit pattern. But, agree, check with either your cc company (surely they have run into this) OR Check with a couple of the large gas companies you do business with in the U.S. Again, they will surely have run into this issue before. A quick search came up with this: What is my 5 digit zip code Canada? If prompted for your ZIP code, just enter the three digits of your postal code plus two zeros. So for example, if your postal code is A2B 3C4, the 5 digit number you should enter is 23400. Contact you card issuer if you have any questions. And this from Master Card: https://www.mastercard.ca/en-ca/consumers/features-benefits/travel-tips/mastercard-pay-at-pump.html

No question, parking right on the beach or within a short distance of salt water is corrosive. As Carl said, washing well, particularly underneath will help. Probably no more harmful than driving on salted roads up north.

There are a number of devices that will achieve the same goal (keeping the chassis battery charged when the coach is on 120 VAC). Most are quite a lot less expensive.

Yes, Liquid Spring suspensions were developed for ambulances, so it is available for Class C motorhomes.

dennis702, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not aware of two oil filters on a Caterpillar 3126. I would use a Caterpillar filter. Any Caterpillar dealer will have it. Take in your ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER. The serial number will be on top of the valve cover. Fuel filters (if two), the primary filter/water separator should be a 10-30 micron rating element and the secondary one a 2 micron element On secondary, best to use a Caterpillar, not aftermarket part. Your chassis maker (suspect Freightliner) is the one who speced and installed at least the primary and may have also done the secondary. Yes, many chassis makers move the secondary fuel filter to an easier location than on-engine.

How would moisture in the air inside a tire have an effect this great on tire pressure increase? First, IMO, it is speculation that this is the root cause. Could it be-- CERTAINLY. Nitrogen and "dry air" follow the Ideal Gas Law-- basically PSI rises at a given rate with increase in temperature. Well documented since the 1800's. BUT (large BUT) if there is water in there, water is clearly not a "gasses" and there will be a higher PSI rise for a given temperature rise. And water could be in there from no air dryer on their air supply-- very unlikely as their air tools would live a very short life. It could also be the lubricant that they may have used to install the tire on the rim.

Yes, if overheating (and not because of loss of coolant) the best answer is to pull over, transmission in Neutral and idle around 1,200 RPM.

Lightnup, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Several factors here: 1. How good is your balance? Something you know better than anyone else. 2. How strong is the roof-- others with the same coach will need to advise you on this. 3. Conditions when you go up there-- certainly dry roof and good shoes beats wet and/or slick shoes. Carry a line/rope up there and have someone on the ground tie a bucket with your tools in it rather than trying to climb the ladder with hands full.

Yes, I would add a good charge line: Fuse at coach battery (which ever battery bank is closer to the back of the coach). Since this will be used while driving, the alternator will charge both banks so it is not critical whether you use chassis or house battery. Sized to protect whatever size wire you use. 8 Gauge wire recommended, fuse to back of coach. Water proof connection at back of coach/front of cord to toad. 8 Gauge wire to fuse at toad battery. This fuse is also critical, as both coach end and toad end batteries are "hot". Note: the ground between coach and toad will also have to be of sufficient gauge.

JimChan52, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have and what make/model air leveling system you have. Thanks.

Carl, With the Cummins ISL it could be either. Call Cummins with your engine serial number. I am betting on an engine compression brake. If

Yup, that allows you to engage 2, 4 or all 6 cylinders.

Yes, the alternator SHOULD charge both battery banks. If this ever happens again, be sure to check battery voltage on the house battery.

Well, either exhaust brake or compression brake can be casually referred to as an "engine brake". Exhaust brakes are found on "smaller" diesels, with engine compression brakes being offered on larger engines, starting with the Cummins ISL (8.9 liters).

With both low and high, I suspect you have an ENGINE COMPRESSION BRAKE, not an EXHAUST BRAKE. Exhaust brakes are either on or off. With an engine compression brake you often have the ability to select either some or all the cylinders slowing you down. The two are vastly different in how they work.

Yes, the exhaust brake activation SHOULD cause the transmission to automatically downshift. Look at the Allison shift pad when you engage the exhaust brake. It SHOULD change from "6" to a lower gear. 4th and 2nd are common choices, but any gear can be programmed in as the pre-select gear by an Allison dealer. The "turn on exhaust brake" signal actually goes through the Allison ECU.

Speck, Recheck-- I suspect in a 1998 with 330 HP it will be the C engine. For best answers, post your engine serial number.

Does the Allison shift pad illuminate (show N) when you turn on the ignition? If so, use the shift pad to check for diagnostic codes.

cmcusn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis are you on? That is where the wiring for the Allison would have been done. Normally, the two 12 VDC positives to the Allison ECU come from the same fuse block-- one for memory the other hot only when the ignition is on. Verify that your ignition switch and ignition solenoid are working-- if the dash HVAC fan works, these are good.