wolfe10

Quite likely you are hearing the electric fuel pump-- very normal.

Wayne, If there have been no new posts since you last checked, you will/should get that message. Are you getting "no new content" message when there HAVE been new posts since you were last on-line? I have never had that happen to me, but if it is happening to you, on Tuesday, I can put you in touch with a support person at FMCA.

Gerald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When you say the batteries are new and fully charged, have you checked both CHASSIS and HOUSE batteries with a digital voltmeter? Does your coach have provisions for charging the chassis batteries from shore power-- many do NOT? The fact that it will start with the boost switch is engaged suggests that either the chassis batteries are not charged or that there is a poor connection between the chassis batteries and engine.

Suggest you also have them check for 120 VAC on both IN and OUT side of the GFI outlet. They DO fail. They are not expensive.

NOTE: THIS ALL ASSUMES YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC!!! The "right side" of what has no power to it-- 120 VAC or 12 VDC? With a digital voltmeter-- what is voltage at the batteries. That will quickly tell you if a converter, charger or inverter/charger is working. And, exactly what is not working on 120 VAC-- is it just some outlets? In your main 120 VAC breaker box, is there just one marked "outlets"? If more than one feeding various breakers, turn them off one at a time to identify which one is connected to the "not working" outlets. Then, starting at the closest outlet (usually proximity to 120 VAC breaker box is the one) check for power to it. Let us know what you find-- again, the more information you provide, the better we can help.

Begall, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The GFI they are talking about is just like one in your house-- on a 120 VDC outlet. And, as they said, if it is tripped, that outlet and all outlets downstream of it (protected by it) will be dead. To operate on 120 VAC, your refrigerator actually needs both 120 VAC (heating element) and 12 VDC (to operate the PC board). If it works on LP, then you DO have 12 VDC to it. The converter is not involved in providing 120 VAC-- it only takes 120 VAC and "converts it" to 12 VDC (actually around 13 VDC so that it charges the 12 VDC batteries). What is battery voltage on the house battery bank? That will tell you whether you have a converter problem.

Yes, the breaker could be bad, or voltage low at the slide mechanism (causing excessive amp draw), or there could be a problem with the slide or its alignment, causing excessive friction/resistance. More details would help us to help you: what coach you have, what kind of slide mechanism, and if you have checked voltage at the slide motor, what you saw.

Red, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to the dash evaporator? Is it leaking water (condensate) or leaking R134A? Do you know the brand of the dash HVAC unit. Probably printed on it. If not, Monaco can tell you-- call them with your VIN: 877-466-6226

On most hydraulic over hydraulic brake systems, the electric assist is generally only an emergency backup. It works if the engine stops. So, turn on the key, engine off and you should hear it run.

Sounds like your is wired backwards. The chassis battery may have a separate cut-off switch, and if your coach does not have some means of charging from shore power (many do not), disconnecting it while camped can slow down its discharge rate. The house battery, whose cut-off switch is generally near the entrance door must be left on for 12 VDC functions in the coach to work. Your inverter/charger WILL keep the house battery bank charged when you are on shore power or the generator is on. Many have added a separate small smart charger or "power share device" such as a Xantrex Echo Charger to keep the chassis battery charged from shore power.

Pismomike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, do NOT accept a Cashier's check, they can be forged. The exception is if you go to their bank and the banker hands you a cashier's check. There is no "here is how it will work". Some questions that will help us direct you to a way that is safe for both you and the buyer: Do you have clear title? Do you bank locally (where the transaction will take place)? Does the buyer have a bank/branch near where the transaction will take place?

Yes, the spring should STRONGLY hold the exhaust brake in the open position. In fact, unless you have gorilla strength, you will not be able to close it by hand.

Yes, if you are getting ready to go on a long trip (you mention Alaska) where servicing along the way is pretty scarce, I would sure have wheel bearings repacked. This assumes they have not been repacked in the 10 years the chassis has been on the road.

peterk, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Oshkosh sold out to Freightliner. Most of that vintage had hydraulic brakes. Many hydraulic over hydraulic. So the brakes themselves (i.e. in the master cylinder) is regular DOT III brake fluid. There were a number of different fluids used in the engine-driven hydraulic system including engine oil, ATF and hydraulic fluid. Suggest you confirm this with Freightliner. I don't have an e-mail address for Freightliner Chassis which is in Gaffney, SC, but their phone number is: 800 385-4357. Contact them with your VIN.

Paul, A couple of things: Do you have a side or rear radiator? If rear, when was the last time you cleaned the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler)? Excessively hot intake air temperatures will certainly affect performance. You mentioned boost a couple of times. Do you have a boost gauge? If so, what boost are you seeing? You can visually check to see if the PacBrake has been lubed (signs of oily residue around shaft)? If not easy to do with PacBrake lube. You can also check that it is fully open (only tiny amount of piston sticking out of air cylinder). No question, an exhaust brake stuck partially shut will affect performance. Also, check CAREFULLY for exhaust leaks: head to exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold itself and exhaust manifold to turbo. Any leak upstream of the turbo reduces potential boost. Black soot trails indicate a leak. All of this is/should be standard checks for a diesel.

Probably 3 hour job total with regular hand tools.

On our last coach, were was not sufficient width to remove the Splendride unit. SOOOOO, I pulled it out enough to dismantle and remove it piece by piece. Then took a hack saw and cut through the frame (not as much work as I thought it might be).

Probably going to get a wide range of answers to this one. My response is that there is NOTHING you can/should do to make a black or gray tank "smell good". There are NOT septic tanks where you expect to hold contents for weeks or months. All RV's are designed to isolate the smell of/in those tanks from the RV interior. If you smell holding tank odors inside the RV, I would address THAT-- not try to make tank contents smell good. Keep the odors out of the motorhome interior. Basically, that means that there needs to be more atmospheric pressure in the RV than in the tanks. Turn on a vent fan (i.e. vacuum in the bathroom) with the toilet valve open and the reverse happens. Drive with windows open and the reverse can happen. Your goal is to maximize interior pressure and minimize pressure in the tank. There are a number of devices that reduce pressure in the tank. Most are based on the venturi effect on the tank roof vents. A good place to start.

Call Monaco Support with your VIN. This number is a couple of years old, but may still be good: 877-466-6226

ObedB, Absolutely, post it here. Thanks.

tmcwhite, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First question: Does coach air pressure cycle that rapidly between CUT-IN and CUT-OUT PSI? If so, look for a large air leak (i.e. the dryer is doing it's job-- purging at the end of each compressor-run cycle).

ObedB, Do you have any pictures of your setup or a brand name you can post?

Next step is to verify (or have someone safe working around electricity) verify that 120 VAC is getting to the inverter/charger from the main 120 VAC breaker panel from shore power and/or generator power. If it is, then the problem is in the inverter/charger.

If the inverter is inverting (i.e. if the appliances such as microwave and outlets supplied by the inverter have power) when shore power and generator are off, that means that big fuse between battery bank and inverter is OK.

OK, what happens when you disconnect from shore power and turn on the generator?? That will tell us if it is a shore power or perhaps (ATS-- Automatic Transfer Switch) where shore power/generator decision is made or something further downstream. And, yes the white lead (neutral) burned can cause real issues with voltage, as there is no "reference point". Very high voltage-- 160 VAC or higher can do real damage to a coach electrical system. Anytime you see voltage over 132 VAC, unplug IMMEDIATELY and determine the cause.