wolfe10

The only two common scales on most diesel engine gauges is PSI and column inches of HG. In fact, our last coach had the dash gauge in PSI, while Caterpillar published their specs for the engine in column inches of HG. As long as one knows that a dash gauge reading of 25 PSI corresponds to roughly 50 column inches of HG, no worries.

Is that 42 PSI or 42 column inches of boost? Roughly 2 column inches per PSI.

And, along with Rich's questions, what PSI are you carrying?

With the Velvet Ride suspension (aka B.F. Goodrich Torsilastic), ride height is important and adjustable. From center of wheel (mark center of hub cap) to bottom of belt line molding should be 25" +/- 1/4". Measure on level ground. Then count the number of the 1/4" thick shims at each wheel position. Post what you find and we can walk you through the process or perhaps suggest who in your area can do it if you don't want to tackle it yourself.

Ron, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First issue is what is the fuel level in tank compared to the primary fuel filter head. If the level in the tank is higher (full tank or nose of coach higher than back or combination), fuel will run out when you remove the primary filter. So, you will want a catch bucket under it. An old square 1 gallon milk jug cut off works well. Having a little run out is better than if the tank is lower in which case when you remove the primary filter, the fuel will all drain back to the tank leaving you with 20' of air in the fuel line. Best long-term answer is to install a ball valve at the inlet to the primary filter. Do you have a spare clear bowl? That makes the change a lot quicker, as you can remove the old one and immediately install the new one. I like to carry a spare anyway, as plastic can crack. If fuel level in the tank is higher, as you install the new filter, leave it slightly unseated from the gasket-- it will fill with fuel. When fuel is running out of the top, tighten it all the way. I have no problem in you filling the primary filter with fuel if you choose-- the secondary filter would catch anything that may be in the "clean" fuel you use. Now, remove the secondary filter (hopefully a Caterpillar 2 micron filter) and snug up. Push the primer pump until it goes from EASY to really hard to push. Easy is because of air in the system. Fuel, being non-compressible, it will become HARD when the air is removed. It should go from easy to hard all of a sudden. The number of strokes can vary, based on amount of fuel vs air in each of the filters as well as line from tank. BTW, what suspension are you on?

Pictures?

RJ, While on the road (i.e. with the engine running), the alternator will more than keep up with power demand of the inverter/residential refrigerator. It is only when dry camping that battery capacity is of importance.

Freightliner Chassis Owners Club.

Carl, If you have confirmed 120 VAC to them, replace the bulbs with new. If they don't come on, the ballast is the next "suspect".

Over insured comment would suggest comparing coverage to coverage. Then YOU determine the correct amount of insurance. Easiest way to get less costly insurance is to reduce the coverage-- not necessarily a good idea.

lherlocker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The "snake eyes" indicate a problem with shift pad, ECM or wiring, with voltage to the Allison ECM being one of the more common issues. To check for actual diagnostic codes: With ignition on, engine off, push the up and down arrows at the same time-- this will bring up the "fluid level" (which you will skip past). Push the up and down arrow AGAIN at the same time to bring up the diagnostic codes. It will show as d-1 followed by any stored diagnostic code. If no codes it will show d-1, then - -. If a d-1 code, write it down. Then push the mode button to bring up d-2, etc until you get the - -. You can just turn off the ignition to exit or push D.

You can contact these guys for parts price: http://sourcerv.com/ Here are a link to a list of dealers to do the installation: http://sourcerv.com/dealers

gmaples, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You should have a 20 amp fuse at both toad and at coach battery. That setup should easily keep the toad battery charged. Assume (please verify) that you do have a ground circuit from toad to RV. Last check is to disconnect that charge wire at the toad battery and check voltage. Should be very close to what you read at the coach battery from which you are taking power.

Do not let the trailing arm issue stop you from buying a coach you otherwise like. Just deduct the price of parts and labor to replace them-- this is a 100% fix.

rjport, So that we can address your handling issue, we will need to look at some of the basics that help determine coach handling: What chassis? What year? How many miles? Post wheel position or axle weights if you have them? Tire pressure you carry? Any suspension mods you have made? Is this your first large vehicle/Class A motorhome you have driven?

Don, What converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have. That will tell us if it is "smart" and if it can be adjusted. Yes, out the fill holes is the most likely, though, of course, you could have a cracked case. But a cracked case should show up as one cell using a lot more water than the others. And, as batteries age, it is common for one call to go bad before the others, That can leave your charger (even a smart one) trying to charge a 10 VDC battery (5 good cells, one bad) as though it was a 12 VDC battery (6 good cells). That will absolutely cause the remaining cells and usually other batteries on that circuit OVERcharged and therefore boiling. Since these are wet cell batteries, I would turn off the charger, wait overnight and use a battery hydrometer (under $10 at any auto parts house) to check SG (specific gravity) of the batteries.

Don, Two things: Be sure you are not OVER filling the batteries. A common issue. 13.5 is the very high end of where float voltage should be unless ambient temperatures are below 40 degrees or so. If you have a smart inverter/charger, check the settings. If you are not able to keep float voltage between 13.2 and 13.5, consider using a HD timer (like 20 amp from a box store) to turn the charger on for just an hour or so a day while in storage.

Only the back trailing arm design was bad, and that is what would be replaced. On the link above are photos that would allow you to very quickly determine if that coach has the newer design trailing arms. No front suspension parts were involved in the failures/no front parts require replacement.

Debay, The replacement of the defective-design rear trailing arms with the new design was a 100% fix for that problem. As to chassis handling, that is highly subjective. Kind of like comparing ride and handling of a Cadillac to a BMW. Very different!

Not all Monaco products were involved in the rear trailing arm failures. Read through the first couple of posts on this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

Shelia, By freeze, do you mean "it quits functioning"? What brand and model thermostat? of A/C?

Yes, failure to use a pressure reducer can lead to a lot more expensive and disastrous problems than a leaking valve. A busted water line can flood a coach! City water pressure varies widely, so always use a pressure reducer. There are high-flow pressure reducers available.

Ken, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two separate issues: When to winterize and how to winterize. The "when to winterize" depends on several issues. Since you are storing the coach in a heated facility, it will depend on the temperatures when you leave. It will also depend on whether your tankage, water lines, pump, etc are in a well insulated basement, uninsulated basement or exposed to outside temperatures. Many who leave sub-freezing temperatures have their coach winterized and just carry some gallon jugs of water inside until they hit appropriate temperatures. The "how to winterize" might be more appropriately called "how to winterize using the least quantity of antifreeze". Most potable antifreeze is pre-diluted. Adding it to water reduces its effectiveness. Not draining would also massively increase the quantity of antifreeze needed. Your coach should have instructions on how to winterize in its owners manual.

Since the FMCA program is brand new-- there will not be any feedback on it in older posts. Suggest it be evaluated along with the rest: http://www.fmca.com/benefits/fmca-roadassist.html

There are really multiple answers to "what is towable 4 wheels down". The official answer from the vehicle manufacturer-- and Honda does not approve the Accord for towing 4 wheels down. Yes, this often includes both mechanical considerations and legal ones. Mazda, for example has had a policy that its vehicles were not towable 4 wheels down. For years the Ford Ranger, same truck, same drivetrain, same assembly plant WAS deemed towable by Ford. The practical answer-- focuses more on the mechanical portion of the "can it be towed 4 wheels down". Certainly if a vehicle is under warranty, towing 4 wheels down could void the warranty if that towing resulted in damage. Out of warranty-- you will have to decide for yourself if you want to expand from the manufacturer's official answer. BTW, here in the FMCA website, FMCA members can pull up what the manufacturers rated as towable all the way back to 1999 (you must be logged into the main FMCA website to access them): http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html