wolfe10

What is the current roof material? How difficult would it be to install a new membrane/Britetech/whatever it is? How much rot is in the exposed wood? Is it plywood or OSB?

Lyle, Yes, you can run the refrigerator from an extension cord. First thing I would do is plug in something else into the outlet to see of you have 120 VAC to the back of the refrigerator outlet. If no, reset any GFI's in the coach and/or troubleshoot it. If yes, there is a fuse on the refrigerator PC board that may be out. Let us know how your troubleshooting goes.

John, First question is how the Jeep's weight compares with your motorhome's rated towing capacity as well as GCVW. Frame extension, etc by the coach builder mean that not all gas chassis (even the same year and chassis) have the same capacity.

Tow bar manufacturers have specs on maximum out of level between hitch and toad. 3" is common.

Yes, a non-closing sail switch will allow the fan to come on, but not for the gas valve to open or igniter to work. But, there are number of reasons for a sail switch to not close in addition to a bad sail switch: Low voltage is #1-- fan spins too slowly to generate sufficient CFM. Blockage in either the return or outflow side (say, for example, you closed a couple of vents). Bad connection at the PC board-- often "cured" by removing the connection and using a good electric cleaner. De-oxit makes some excellent products for this.

Agree with Ray if typical fixed-vane turbo. But, sitting for long periods of time CAN contribute to a variable-vane turbo's demise.

No, 14.3 VDC is not a problem. While driving, your alternator should (and sounds like it does) keep the batteries fully charged and should have enough reserve to power the inverter to run your residential refrigerator. I would start by verifying the the wiring from house battery bank to inverter are clean and tight. Those should be easy to identify, as they will be large gauge cables. Likely a large amp in line fuse between house battery positive and the inverter. Many inverters also have breakers on them. Would not hurt to cycle OFF and back ON.

jvmcmillan2003, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is NOT any "best braking system". That is why some companies offer several different types. An important consideration: How long will you keep your toad? If a long time, a longer initial install time and not having to move the brake system in and out is very appealing. Change every year or two or two more than just that one vehicle, a portable system would fit your needs better.

To add to Rich's questions, when was the last time a "burner area tune-up" as done. This requires no parts and addresses a number of things that can cause failure while on propane: 1. Clog in propane jet. 2. Dirt, rust or insect nest in the burner tube. 3. Improper gap or carbon build up on the ignitor/thermocouple Complete instructions may be in your refrigerator owners manual.

Yes, the licensing for those with Texas driver's licenses is as Carl posted. This is for personal use, not commercial use. But, rules governing commercial vehicles ARE different-- and suspect they are in other states as well.

Mike, Thetford has their manuals on-line: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPORT/ProductManuals/tabid/265/Default.aspx

Perhaps Tuffy is indeed alive and playing MIND GAMES WITH YOU.

Yes, if mechanical, check carefully in the engine room first. A leak will leak boost as well as render the gauge inoperative. You could also take loose the hose at the engine and pressurize it to 20 PSI and verify that the cause is reading accurately.

What chassis? Mechanical or electronic gauge?

Rich, If the power to the pump is disconnected and the noise quits, he has ruled out the glow plugs and their circuit as the source. If he disconnects both, he will not know whether the glow plugs or fuel pump is the source.

First suspect is that you are hearing the electric fuel pump. You can put your hand on it and feel it pulsing. OR, you can disconnect the wire to it and see if the noise stops. It is normal/desired for the fuel pump to operate while the glow plugs are heating up.

There are three basic types of coolants: 1. Regular car coolant (like the vast majority of Prestone products. 2. Low silicate for diesel with added SCA (Supplemental Cooling Additive). 3. New generation OAT--based coolants. Sadly, coolant color is not consistent across brands. Best advice-- check freeze point (test strips from most diesel shops). If topping off with distilled water will still keep your freeze point comfortably below ambient temperatures, add distilled water. SCA's can also be tested, but if you are going to change the coolant in a month or two, with the parent bore C7, I wouldn't be too concerned about the SCA's. The reason I suggest distilled water is that it is compatible with any coolant you have in there. If you do need to lower freeze point, I would go with one of the low silicate coolants-- use concentrate to make a lower freeze point.

Jerry, Are those courses geared for RV techs, or "Training for Non-mechanical Folks"?? Also, if you have a diesel coach, the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) does 3 half day maintenance seminars geared for "non-mechanical folks" at their Rallies (I know-- I conduct them): Next one in March (two weeks prior to FMCA Convention in Pomona) in Desert Hot Springs, CA: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-1735866

Don't know what are of the country you are in, but there are many maintenance seminars geared for the non/semi-technical at FMCA Conventions. Might want to keep an eye as seminar details become available for the Pomona CA Convention in March 2015: http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/pomona-2015/3790-family-registration-fmca-redmond-2014.html As in the past, there will be seminars on the "care and feeding" of your electrical system, appliances, chassis, engines (if diesel), etc. A very good learning opportunity.

Jerry, I can get this started. Modern LED TV's draw substantially less power than the old tube TV's, so power consumption should not be an issue. On our 1997 Safari Sahara, I removed the OE TV and replaced with a Vizio M260VA in the same location. Removed the cabinet and cut it down on top and front to accommodate the dimensions of the new TV (TV the largest that would fit in the original width AND had front speaker). So, I did not modify any surface that showed, but raised the cabinet and moved it forward so it lined up with the middle cabinet. I then removed the inside cover on the pillar between driver's side windshield and drivers side window and installed an extension of the feed from the backup camera down to the dash area where I installed a new monitor (flush mount to the right of the driver's area). I did not research the overhead structure to see if it could handle a swing down TV. I did just that on our previous coach, but do not know if the structure in the cap has beaming that could hold the TV. Yes, the OE antenna will pull in digital signals. There are also more directional antennas from both Wingard and Jack that can be attached to your OE antenna mast with no modification.

It can be very confusing: The ISL is the only engine, to my knowledge, that came with EITHER an exhaust brake or engine compression brake. And, Jacobs Corp makes BOTH engine compression brakes (aka Jake brake) AND exhaust brakes. So the name of the company does not tell you which technology you have.

Herman, Best way to confirm what type of brake you have is to call Cummins with your engine serial number, but, yes if nothing between turbo and tail pipe on the exhaust side, I suspect you have an engine compression brake. Note: Most engine compression brakes are TWO STAGE, so switch would likely be HI/LO. Exhaust brakes are merely on/off.

Herman, Yes, the ISL could be ordered with either an engine compression brake (Jake brake) or for less $$ an exhaust brake. The majority of exhaust brakes are bolted to the turbo, though some are mounted further down in the exhaust.

Pacbrake sells their own lube-- under $10. And here is where to lube it: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/fixed-orifice-exhaust-brakes/maintenance-2/

My assumptions: No ABS on 1992 coach. OP stated that the brake lines (flexible lines) were just replaced. Unlikely that the same symptoms would apply before and after replacement, yet they be the cause of the problem. That is why I wondered about a crushed brake line to the right front (the metal line). BUT, a crushed line would not allow one to bleed that caliper.