wolfe10

Actually, here is the information on the FMCA Roadside Assist Program: http://www.fmca.com/benefits/fmca-roadassist.html

I am not a fan of surge-type toad brakes. There are too many times when use of lower gears will control your speed of descent on a grade. But will also generate enough "push" to keep your toad brakes applied. If set so that this does not happen, then braking effort when you really need it is in question.

Ron, I reached out to my contact at Koni. Here is his response-- sounds like CC used different set-ups: Country Coach applications are harder to identify than others. I think he should need 88 1641sp3 in the front and 8805 1013 (FSD) in the rear. That assumes he has the SAF Holland (formerly Neway) IFS and Rear suspension.

I would give Allison a call: Allison help line 800 252 5283

Gems, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is this a MAGNUM chassis-- i.e. Safari? A little hard to speculate without a picture. The main alignment that is critical here is that the fan (attached to the engine) is centered in the fan shroud. I suspect a change here would change that alignment.

Rich has you off to a good start. Quite likely the black smoke is being caused by a way over rich mixture. Something as simple as a mud dubber's nest on the burner (they love the smell of propane) can cause it. BUT, the propane getting into the coach should not be related-- the system is sealed. That is, the intake, combustion and exhaust should be totally isolated from the air path to the coach interior. So, you will want to have the combustion chamber checked. A leak here or in a gasket to it can allow fumes (and in an over-rich case propane) into the interior. You don't mention the age of the unit, but if the combustion chamber is rusted through, a new furnace may be a better option.

I suspect the valve you are talking about is the fuel check valve in the return line at the back of the head. It connects to the fuel return line going back to the fuel tank. Easy to replace (couple of minute job) and, yes, particles can hold it open which allows fuel pressure to drop. And, as you have found out, with no fuel pressure, no start.

The C7 replaced the 3126. Basic engine the same. Major changes to fuel system and minor changes to other components to meet the much stiffer EPA emission requirements. The 3126 production ran roughly from 1996 to 2003. C7 2004 until production for on-highway engines ended in 2008 or so.

Can you provide a link that suggests these are not a steering axle/all position tire?

bottieri, Another common wiring option is to come from coach chassis battery with an inline fuse to base plate/connector to inline fuse at toad battery. A good charge wire (yes, a good ground between coach and toad is important). Another option is to use a relay with ignition hot as the trigger to close the relay with the wiring above. That way, if you overnight without power, it will not run down the coach chassis battery.

Dan, Tell us where you will be starting the trip and also what kind of things are of interest to the two of your.

Yup, we are speculating on exactly what engine you have-- 3126, 3126B, 3126E or C7. With model years ranging from 1996 to 2008. Several different renditions during that time period. Irrespective, your Caterpillar owners manual is the place to look. If you don't have one, you can order one from any Caterpillar dealer (you will need your engine serial number). You could also call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number and they can look it up for your exact engine: 877 777-3126.

Bigswampgator, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume you have a Caterpillar 3126. If so, not you do not need to apply throttle to start. Turn key to first position until "wait to start" light goes out. If below 40 degrees, a good idea to turn key back off and back to the first position again. This position turns on the intake manifold heater. Then start. If house battery bank is fully charged, using the boost switch will help, as it gives more battery amp-hrs to the starter and intake manifold heater. And, if you have shore power, turn on the block heater if below 40 degrees. Even an hour or two helps.

Bob, There are a couple of styles of battery disconnects-- both mechanical and electronic/relay. And Herman's idea of running a charge line from the motorhome is another viable alternative.

Bob, You might also check with Nissan. There are some vehicles where the steering remains unlocked if you turn the key to ON (not start), then back to off. As long as you do not remove the key, it may remain unlocked. Again, not suggesting your Sentra is set up this way, but worth asking.

Allegiance40x, OK, got to ask, is D/W: Dear Wife (yes, you are in trouble) Dish Washer (you will probably be doing dishes for the foreseeable future.

jbrunson, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Gillig made some high-end chassis. They are still in business (CA I believe) making commercial bus chassis. The Caterpillar 3208 was one of the better engines of that vintage, particularly compared with the Detroit Diesel 4 stroke 8.2 liter. As with any coach that age, how it has been maintained over the years will be as important as initial build quality.

gddavis 1031, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If a member of FMCA, here is a list by year going back a decade on what is towable 4 wheels down per the vehicle manufacturer: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html The top link is: Towing Guides - towing four wheels down

Our speculation really won't do you any good. You need to contact your insurance company. They will need to send an adjuster familiar with 120 VAC wiring.

Since your RV is 50 amp service, I ASSUME that the 4 wires were mis-connected, with one of the two hots going to what is supposed to be the neutral. If the mis-connected hot was to ground, the RV skin/frame would have showed 120 VAC and a good chance someone would have been electrocuted. If that was the case (mis-connected to neutral), only those circuits supplied by that one properly wired hot (and the mis-connected one on neutral) should be affected. Said another way with just two hots and one of them mis-connected, the circuits supplied by the hot that was mis-connected would have showed 120 VAC (but with reverse polarity) if the mis-connected was on the neutral. They should have suffered no damage.

As I posted above, neither wax nor petroleum-based products should be used on vinyl stripes. 303 Aerospace is safe to use on them-- did that for more than a decade on our coach with vinyl stripes. Any good automotive wax is fine for the fiberglass. See what product Consumers Report or others recommend. If filon (i.e. you can see the strands of glass vs smooth gel coat) I would use a liquid wax, as you really do not want was build up on the strands-- they collect dirt and look bad quickly. So, with filon, it is critical that you get all the residual wax off.

Mattyboy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is your RV wired for 50 amp or 30 amp service. Said another way, is your shore power plug 3 prong or 4?

Smoke, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is one I have used successfully: http://www.lowes.com/pd_424492-41278-HT2B_4294820777__?productId=4095287&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Excellent, Lyle. Thanks for the update and detailed explanation.

dgross, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are a number of OTR truck repair facilities on the east side of Houston off loop 610E. This includes the Cummins dealer for the area: Cummins Southern Plains. 7045 N Loop E Fwy, Houston exit Kirpatrick either direction, TX 77028. (713) 679-2220.