wolfe10

OK, I sent this thread to a long-time refrigeration industry manager. Here is the reply I got: I am not a big fan of aftermarket add-ons. Not that they do or don't work, but if you take the fridge into an authorized service center, the first thing they would do is remove that item, since they would not know how to check it for function, then they would install a Dometic thermister and proceed. Testing an existing thermister can easily be done by immersing it in a glass of ice water to simulate 32 degrees and Ohms test the plug end at the control board for approx 8500 Ohms ( 5800 on the 1402 only). If over 10% off replace with Dometic Thermister Replacement Kit #330 7872.006 replaces the tip only with silicon sealing connectors - about $22. directly from Dometic. Thermister should be attached to the aluminum evaporator fin. Regards

Actually, they used both GM and Allison transmissions: P chassis used the GM W chassis used the Allison

Assume you have the Allison 3000 series transmission. If so, pull out your transmission owners manual and, using the shift pad, check for codes. Very easy with engine off, ignition on. You will push the up and down arrows at the same time TWICE (first push brings up fluid level which can not be checked unless transmission is up to operating temperature and running). Second push of both up and down arrow begins the diagnostic codes. You will have d-1 and then a two sequence code. If no codes, it will show d-1 - - . If there is a d-1, after you record the code, push the Mode button to bring up d-2. Continue to record/push Mode until d- whatever - - comes up. If you don't have the book , let us know the codes and we can look them up for you. Brett

SteveCynthia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis maker (Freightliner or Powerglide most likely) choose the coolant and the cooling system. So, check with your chassis maker to find out what coolant you have (and whether it needs testing and use of SCA) and the recommended change interval. They can also tell you if a coolant filter is fit. Brett

Placement really depends on your coach. Some mount the rear one on the ladder (Kiley has custom ladder attachment mounts), some on the rear grills, some on the back cap. Front mounts-- if no front license plate, mount there. Or in grill or on cap. Look around any CG and you will see a number of different placements depending on coach layout. Brett

Landyachters, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please let us know what year Monaco Dynasty you have.

NADA is a good guide. So is doing searches on the different RV for sale websites for comparable units. Brett

Understand. But, not all factory wired 7 pin charge wires are the same. You certainly have nothing to loose by wiring your toad to it (with fuse at toad battery). If it doesn't do an adequate job of keeping the battery up, you can always upgrade the coach end.

Rob, A common issue with vehicles of all kinds-- car dealerships do this many times each day. Contact your bank for the exact payoff after you have a sale lined up. Get the "good through" date of the payoff out 10 days or so. Get the name of a loan officer so that the buyer can contact them. Your buyer or his banker can talk with your loan officer to verify payoff and work out drafting for the title. If money needs to change hands (you owe less than selling price OR sell for less than loan payoff) the buyer can cut you a separate check/draft or you can pay your bank the shortfall. Brett

What you are suggesting MIGHT work. The issue will be how much voltage drop between coach chassis battery, chassis battery terminal of battery isolator, etc and that 7 pin connector. If a short run of 8 gauge wire, likely no issue at all. You will need to measure voltage at the coach chassis battery and again at the 7 pin while it is charging toward the higher end of your toad's amp needs. Said another way, under no load, voltage will all read the same. The more resistance (small gauge wire, longer run, more connections) AND the higher the amps you are transferring, the more the voltage drop. Same for your ground connection between the vehicles. Be sure to put a fuse at BOTH batteries, as both ends of that charge wire are HOT. Brett

Fully charged 12 VDC battery (or two 6 VDC batteries wired in series) AT REST (no charging/no discharging for at least an hour)= 12.7 VDC. Smart chargers (including the one in your inverter/charger) charge at different rates depending on what "mode" they are in: Bulk mode when batteries deeply discharged: 14.2-14.5 Absorption mode as batteries approach full charge: same Float mode after batteries are charged-- basically maintenance voltage: 13.2-13.5 So, when you first plug in your coach, your charger section of the inverter/charger is working, you should see 13+ VDC. Brett

Tim, Your battery voltage still indicates a near-dead state of charge. Use a portable battery charger to charge them up before concluding that you have a problem with the inverter/charger. 12.2 VDC is as LOW as you want to run a battery bank-- that is 50% discharged. And, verify that the large-gauge wires from inverter to battery bank ARE connected, or it could not charge. But, if you want inverter function, sounds like a new inverter charger is in your near future. Brett

The muffler on your Monaco coach was chosen and installed by Monaco-- Cummins only involvement was to give the CFM and back pressure specs that the muffler had to meet. You can either contact Monaco with your VIN or most large mufflers have the manufacturer and part number stamped on them-- should be easy to find.

Tim, Ya, when you pull them, please post brand and model-- could there be a 6 VDC battery with 6 cells-- I guess, but have never seen one. But a reading of 5.6 VDC on each battery would correspond to a deeply discharged 6 volt battery. Suggest you do take a picture AND mark what wires go where before disconnecting the batteries. And make absolutely sure that no appliances are turned on when you do this-- again this is to protect the PC boards. Brett

twest99, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For house batteries, two 6 VDC batteries (usually golf cart batteries) wired in SERIES are a good choice and very common. But your commend of 6 cells (assume you mean per battery) would indicate a 12 VDC battery. Please confirm that each battery has three cells/6 cells in the two batteries combined. Have you confirmed that you have 120 VAC to the charger? What charger do you have? If it is getting 120 VAC and new, check the wiring and possibly a fuse between the charger and the batteries. Be aware that some chargers are smart enough that they won't charge a totally dead battery! Strongly suggest you do not attempt to use any appliances such as the refrigerator until this is resolved. PC boards really have very low voltage/ voltage spikes, etc. So, perhaps best to remove the batteries, fully charge and then have them load tested/test SG with hydrometer. Brett

Rich, Thanks for going back and checking that old link. Indeed, it no longer exists. Guess 4 years is a long time in "internet time". At least right now, I did find this link to the owners manual: http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458%28445-0193-01-01_rev-2%29.pdf

Tom, Something you might want to look into. Suspect you have a 160 amp or more alternator. That will take care of a lot of functions when driving, particularly if starting with fully charged batteries. And, even with the alternator working, a high charge rate (in bulk mode) when you first plug in is reasonable. But, it should rapidly drop off unless, indeed, the alternator is not charging the house as well as chassis batteries.

And, I wonder why the copilot was sitting inside instead of helping guide the rig in!

If over 3 years old (from date the chassis was built) I would not bother testing regular coolant-- just change it.

Tom, I am very surprised by your comment that the alternator does not charge BOTH battery banks. Do you have a diode-based isolator or solenoid-based battery isolator? Have you done any research on this issue? Brett

Yes, if the noise changes with acceleration/deceleration it is quite likely the rear axle. Also check power steering fluid level. They can also whine, but the whine changes with RPM, not acceleration/deceleration. Brett

I would take that sample along with your Ford chassis VIN to a Ford dealer-- suspect they can tell you exactly what you have. And you can do a good job at home-- after draining the radiator, fill with tap water. Put dash heater on full hot (fan on lowest speed). Run until it reaches operating temperature. Let cool. Drain. Repeat until what comes out is clear/clean. Use distilled water for last rinse. Drain. Add 50% of cooling system capacity in (I recommend) the Ford long life coolant CONCENTRATE. This way, if you ever need service and are in a Ford dealership, they will have the proper coolant. Top off with distilled water. I contact our local city vehicle maintenance department to recycle the old coolant-- no problem. Brett

Jim, What year chassis/engine? Big differences in fuel systems over the years-- even for fuel injection engines.

Jim, What chassis do you have? Have you pulled the bad pump? Is there evidence or rust or crud from the tank clogging the in-tank pump? Howl long ago did you replace the pump-- some have been redesigned?

RbrbRb, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If the propane flame stays lit and is proper size (not diminished by debris in the burner tube, spec of dirt in propane jet, etc) then he is probably correct. Has it been on for at least 30 hours? Is it in a slide out (side upper vent) or is the upper vent roof mounted? Do you have any booster fans at the top of the cooling unit exhausting up/out?