wolfe10

killackeyptrcorp, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When was the last time the brake fluid was replaced/totally flushed. New DOTIII brake fluid boils around 500 degrees F. As it absorbs moisture to protect the ferrous metal components of the brake system, the boiling point is reduced to 258 degrees F. If/when the boiling point is exceeded (in the brake calipers) that fluid turns to a GAS. That will push fluid out the master cylinder and at the same time severely reduce braking. Strongly recommend doing a complete brake fluid flush.

Here is the source information on the program: https://www.fmca.com/rv-fuel-discounts

Mike, Yes, when the coach is not in use, we either drain and dry the filter OR put it in the freezer. Either works well.

JKimmons, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing is to flip the breakers on the generator off and back on. Next step, IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120 VAC is to open the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and check for power IN and OUT from generator. If you don't have 120 VAC from the generator there, then check the connections where generator output is wired to house wiring (on its way to the ATS. Yes, I am assuming you have an ATS-- what RV do you have??

golfergo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis do you have?

Contact the shop to get coolant manufacturer and exactly which coolant it is. Even if "from tank" they should know what they bought and then sold you.

Some test strip (I am holding a Wix test strip kit in my hand) indicate quantity of SCA in pints/gallon. But, I have NO IDEA how they would work with contaminated (two different chemistries) coolant. Particularly with a linered engine, I would not take a chance on it.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have seen this work: Strong ladder at angle from ground to roof (like 45 degrees). Rope around the new unit so guy on roof can assist guy on ground/climbing ladder to move the new A/C up the ladder. Not suggesting this is safe-- much of that would depend on who is doing it!

Yes, by far the best advice. Drain, flush and fill with ELC.

Joe, I would look at your invoice for the repair and see exactly what coolant they used. Contact that coolant manufacturer and ask them (FAR better than our speculation) on what to do.

Yup, 22 quarts is the correct amount for your engine. As Carl said, at your next oil change, have the engine oil dipstick CALIBRATED. The dip stick was NOT a Caterpillar part, so may or may not be accurate. Excess oil-- 6 quarts in your case will sure cause "oil consumption". In fact, Caterpillar states to not add oil until the oil level reaches the ADD mark (yes, on a properly calibrated dip stick). I don't know if the extra 6 quarts will cause the crank to dip into the oil in the sump causing aeration or not. Certainly safest is to go in through the dip stick tube and drain oil down to the proper level.

Wsd890, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Using the search feature in the upper right of this page for "Garmin 760": https://community.fmca.com/search/?q="Garmin 760"&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Sorry, but from experience (General Manager of large metro automobile dealerships with 30-40 techs) that model DOES NOT WORK. Not only does it make customers unhappy, but ties up valuable real estate. How does turning expensive $$/sq ft property into a storage lot make a dealer money?? Much of the diagnostics be handled over the phone by an experienced service writer so parts are on-hand when the coach comes in. Good communication skills/ asking for digital photos of broken parts, etc can save a lot of time for both customer and dealership. Why have customers bring it in before time for scheduled diagnostics and then put it into rotation? Some repairs can be done by beginners-- others are more complex. Not suggesting they do it, but even worse would be waiting until all parts are in and giving it to a tech qualified to do the most complex repair. That would be a real waste of valuable tech manpower. Would anyone really assign their most experienced electrical trouble shooting tech spend his time doing an oil and filter change, check tire PSI, etc??? I sure hope the above "how they do it" is NOT their real business model!

phender82, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Evaluate difficulty of running propane to the refrigerator location (if your coach was offered with either an absorption or residential refrigerator, this may already be done). Determine if an outside access door opening can be cut in the side wall and access door installed (if your coach was offered with either an absorption or residential refrigerator, this is very likely). Your coach manufacturer would be an excellent source for answering the above two issues. Or, let us know exactly what coach you have and someone may have first hand information. The other major step is the same as going from absorption to residential-- evaluate what units will fit the existing space with little or now modification to the recess dimensions.

Don, The VAST majority of the drop in PSI was because of temperature. Altitude has very little effect. And, yes, if you will be operating the coach in cold conditions, you will need to inflate the tires to the correct PSI for your load. Going from Texas summer heat to winter driving, I always have to add air.

Rick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suspect this is the place: https://suncoastdesigners.com/ They are in Hudson, FL. In many cases they can reuse your old glass and just rebuild the windows. If the glass is badly etched, yes, the glass may need to be replaced.

You need an ALGAECIDE, not a stabilizer. Here is a common one: https://www.biobor.com/products/biobor-jf-diesel/

The OE size will be on a plaque, usually found near the driver's seat area.

???1998 Monaco without a built-in AIR DRYER??? Assuming it does have one, one should never get anything but clean dry air out of it. If either water or particularly any powder (desiccant from the dryer) you are well past proper service interval for the air dryer.

Excellent diagnosis and fix.

Would be VERY surprised if you don't have an AIR DRYER on your air system. If you do, the tank drains are little more than the "report card" for the condition of the dryer. Said another way, if you ever get anything but clean dry air from the drain, the air dryer has FAILED! Air dryers are a service item.

I do exactly the same. Have a clear glass jar with lid in the compartment next to my diesel fill. Pump 10 ounces or so into the jar. If it looks good, pour it in the tank and insert nozzle to fill.

Done!

As posted above, the Diesel RV Club is an FMCA Chapter. Dave Atherton, a retired Caterpillar tech is to GO TO man: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/board,100.0.html

Thanks, John for you efforts to keep us up with this ever-changing world. Never know what the automotive engineers, their warranty administrators and their corporate attorneys will decide next.