wolfe10

John, Yes, theoretically, PSI will increase with elevation (actually with lower PSI outside the tire). But the change is minimal. The most dramatic change in tire pressure is due to temperature with ROUGHLY a PSI per 10 degrees F.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Like you, there are many retired boaters here. Dianne and I have over 25,000 miles in our sailboats-- mostly from Texas to the Bahamas where we spent many winters.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please go to the second post in this thread to determine if you have the defective design rear trailing arms. If so, they need to be replaced. Failures have been among all size/weight coaches. There is no reasonable way to beef up the defective design, hence the replacement arm availability. With the extremely high failure rate and extensive damage, or worse catastrophic accident that a broken trailing arm can cause, this is NOT something to put on the back burner.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The question is a little more complicated than that. EACH of these criteria need to be met: Toad weight does not exceed the hitch rating. Toad weight does not exceed the coach towing capacity. Additionally, of course, you will need a tow bar rated for the weight and supplemental brakes. Weight of loaded coach and toad does not exceed the CGWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) And, while you certainly want answers from those who have done it, particularly if you have not purchased the coach, you don't want answers based on "what I got away with", but what is both safe AND LEGAL. Have an accident and your rig doesn't meet ALL the criteria and you are not in a good situation, because they WILL check each one.

Let's divide the issues into "bite sized" pieces: Is shore power reaching the coach-- yes. But, if this outage occurs when lots of other people are using their A/C's and CG power is low (i.e. low voltage) that could be an issue. For under $10 you can buy a digital voltmeter. You want one that reads 12 VDC and 120 VAC. Verify that the shore power is between 108 and 132 (120 VAC +/-10%). You can plug the leads of the voltmeter into any 120 VAC outlet in your coach. A common thread in your posts is that it is likely that your batteries are not charging from the inverter/charger. Again, with the digital voltmeter measure from the house battery positive to negative terminal. Fully charged is 12.7 VDC. 50% discharged is 12.2 VDC. With the inverter/charger working, voltage will be 13.2-14.0 VDC depending on how long the charging unit has been on (higher voltage just after plugging in-- lower voltage after the batteries are fully charged). Your 120 VAC breaker panel should have a breaker for the inverter/charger. Turn it off and back on. There may also be a resettable breaker on the inverter/charger itself. As to location, it WILL be close to the battery compartment. Do you have an inverter remote panel? If so tell us what the readings are-- particularly battery voltage. And on some coaches, lack of adequate battery voltage can affect the A/C's, as some thermostats are 12 VDC from the house batteries. To me, first job is verifying that your house batteries are over 13 VDC-- i.e. the inverter/charger is working. If not, as you have seen, the more specific information you post (i.e. what inverter charger you have) the better.

Yes, let's define the problem. When on shore power or generator on, does the roof A/C work? That will tell you that you have 120 VAC into the coach. And, what is on the "doesn't work list". Are the don't work items powered by 12 VDC or 120 VAC. If the items that don't work are all 12 VDC, then you need to tell us what you have to change 120 VAC to 12 VDC. Could be a converter, charger or inverter/charger. Suspect that this part is not working if the "doesn't work list" all run on 12 VDC. Starting the engine charges the house battery from the engine's alternator.

Yes, a little more details. The generator has TWO breakers on it. Turn them OFF and then back ON. That will supply power to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) or outlet that Rich mentioned. From that point onward, shore power and generator power share the same wiring-- so the issue is at or before the ATS/connection. And the inverter panel will only show AC IN when shore power OR generator power reaches the inverter. Same with the inverter/charger charging the batteries-- only when it receives 120 VAC from either shore power or generator.

RadioRoy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Physical space will dictate the largest battery you can install. All the major battery websites have battery dimensions for their batteries. The other issue is how to charge the chassis battery while in storage or put a "whole battery" disconnect on it. By whole battery, I mean that it is likely that it sounds like there are parasitic loads that your under-dash cut-off switch is not eliminating. If you have 120 VAC where you store, you can install an Echo charger or similar that charges the chassis battery when the house battery is charged (from converter or charger). If outdoors, a small solar panel is another option.

Jim, Wonder if you are checking the START solenoid vs IGNITION solenoid to have power only when key is in the start position. STRONG SUGGESTION: Contact your chassis maker (Freightliner) for schematics and troubleshooting assistance. Brett

Yes, went with the King Control Jack Antenna. A 5 minute change of head only if you have the Wingard crank up antenna. Uses the same 12 VDC power supply and wiring. http://www.kingcontrols.com/jack/digital_tv_signal_finder.asp

John, Replace the solenoid. And 1 amp at 12 VDC is about right for the ignition signal wire. Remember, it is only used to close the contactor in the solenoid. But, another test that will verify that it is the solenoid and not the ignition switch or wiring from it would be to use a small jumper wire from the hot large lug to the positive signal wire terminal on the solenoid. That takes the ignition switch and wiring out of the equation. If it fails now, absolutely it is a bad solenoid.

Join the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) and their Technical Forum: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php?action=forum

John, Check VOLTS, not amps at the solenoid. With key off, you should have 12 VDC between one large lug and ground. With key on (and only with key on) you should also have 12 VDC to the other large lug. Also, with the key off, the small signal terminal from ignition switch should show zero volts. With key on, 12 VDC.

What year V10? You will find more improvement if an early/275 HP. Doubt it would be worth the money if a late model/362 HP engine.

David, Not sure there is a simple answer to your question. Does Delo 400 15-40 meet Cummins standards, YES. Can you get extended change intervals by using a synthetic? No, not according to Cummins. Will use of a synthetic in your Cummins or diesel generator extend the engines useful life in an RV application? VERY doubtful-- the number of oil related failures is close to zero. Are synthetic oils better? Probably. Clearly, if you live and use the engines in extreme temperatures (particularly cold temperatures) the synthetics have more appeal. Now, my opinion: I have used synthetics in all my gasoline powered vehicles for over 30 years. I do not use synthetics in my diesels over that same time period. Never had an oil-related failure on either-- better yet, never had an engine failure yet.

No question, 3 jacks allow more motion than 4 jack systems. We have had one of each. But, after years of sailing, we don't even notice the motion!

Don, Makes sense to me that if the grade remains the same, and everything is raised 5" you would clear. Where is a civil engineer when you need one? BUT, I would not pour a drive assuming that the next RV would have the same or more rear clearance.

Larry, Assume you have air leveling not jacks. Jacks should stabilize as well as level. My concern with your approach is that the air leveling system must NOT allow the coach to lower-- no scissor jack would handle the weight of the coach. Also, be sure you jack against a structural member, not part of the body.

Don, Yes, I see what you mean. Moving the low point further from the garage should solve the hitch issue, as the rear wheels would be headed "up hill" before the hitch gets to the garage itself.

Don, Perhaps I am not seeing the proper perspective from the photo, but it looks like your drive slopes away from the garage, so likely no "water into garage" issue. It also appears that you have plenty of height in the building, just not the door. Have you explored installing a taller door? Brett

Yup, many choices. Engineered wood, a high-end vinyl such as Congoleum Duraceramic that REALLY looks like ceramic tile, or as we just did in our coach a cork floor (U.S. Floors) throughout. Because of weight and inflexibility, actual ceramic tile would never be on my short list for a motorhome.

Yes, the shift pad can be used for checking oil level and for diagnostic codes. But, the plug must be used for an Allison dealer to do any programming change.

Rich, Low beams and high beams from front buss with fuse and 10 gauge wire to relay and relay to head light distribution terminal. Old head light wire is signal and new ground wire. Tail lights from battery isolator (convenient on our rig) with fuse.......

Tom, That left right shift could be a RIDE HEIGHT VALVE that is out of adjustment. You might check ride height.

Yup the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) will have wire bundle from shore power and generator coming in and the wire bundle to the coach 120 VAC breaker box going out.