wolfe10

Guys, Let me suggest we call this one-- no new information is being posted. No need to continue to rehash this. And I never suggested that a 20 amp and a 30 amp= the same as an RV 50 amp outlet. It would provide up to HALF, since an RV 50 has two 50 amp hots. From my first post: "First, even if it works in a particular campground, it would provide HALF the power of a regular 50 amp outlet. A 50 amp outlet has TW0 50 amp hots so it provides 100 amps of available power. 20 plus 30 is 50 or one half a regular 50 amp." And my second one: "A knowledgeable electrician can re-wire a coach to split the circuits in the coach to use both the 30 and 20 GFI outlets to provide up to 50 amps of 120 VAC-- HALF the amps a standard 50 amp outlet provides."

The easy test I do on the brake-a-way switch is to go to a place with a gently sloping road with the back of the car facing down-slope. With vehicle in neutral, engine off, start down the hill. As you start, have someone pull the brake-a-way pin. You should hear the compressor come on (with the Invisibrake) and stop within a couple of feet. Brett

Don't know who made the suggestion, but testing all the functions of any supplemental brake is part of the installation process. Did you use the PSI knob on the on the Invisibrake to set pressures for your toad?

bdemattia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like a relay problem, or wiring or switch. Next time this happens, go to the relay (larger relays also called solenoids). Determine if there is 12 VDC positive to the small "signal" terminal of the relay/solenoid. If so, check both large lugs. One will be hot (12+ VDC) as it goes to the house battery bank. The other SHOULD be hot when the signal terminal is hot. If not, replace the relay/solenoid. This is the most common way for remote disconnect switches to be wired. I would use a digital voltmeter to verify it with switch on/off so you will be able to "catch it" the next time you loose 12 VDC.

McBrian, Not sure from you post (particularly the "leak in my system that was repaired" part)-- do you still have a problem or is it solved?? If not solved, should be pretty easy to diagnose the source of the vacuum leak: #1. Start by plugging the vacuum line at the engine. Drive and check for vacuum issue. That rules out both Invisibrake and the new vacuum line to it. Be sure to use a solid plug such as golf "T" rather than as screw, as vacuum will follow the threads of a screw or any threaded plug. #2. Next, move to the Invisibrake and plug the line that goes into the brake unit. Any change? That rules out the Invisibrake. If you good vacuum in tests #1 and #2 but loss of vacuum when the Invisibrake is connected, the next thing I would do is use a hand held vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the Invisibrake. Determine bleed down time from, say 20" to say 5" vacuum. Call Mike Cannon at Roadmaster with the facts. The good news is this should not be hard to diagnose.

Herman, Can't answer that, as we don't have (and don't particularly care for) those with fully automatic temperature controls. Likely there is not "this is how they all work" answer. Do you have a separate recirculate button? If so, in the Texas heat, once inside temperature is below outside temperature, hit the button.

Actually, with any vehicle, run A/C on recirculation any time the inside temperature/humidity at the air return is lower than that in the outside air. Why take in 100 degree outside air if you can take in 80 degree inside air???

Have you measured temperature drop? Temperature at air intake for dash HVAC (easy to do on recirculate)? Temperature in center A/C outlet at road speed?

Don, The legality of whether a dealer needs to disclose the defect is one for an attorney. In the real world, I doubt many RV salesmen even know of the issue. So an expectation that they would know and then disclose would probably not be realistic. When a company's assets are purchased, they do NOT assume the liabilities. If they bought the company, then they would normally assume the liabilities. But, there was no one vaguely interested in purchasing Monaco Corp. They were fortunate to find a buyer for the assets. And a class action suit against a company that is no longer in business would certainly do no one any good. Get the new trailing arms and move on. It is too dangerous to drive on the original design arms.

Yes, we have as well, but you really need to tell us what part of it you are interested in-- that is a long highway and some parts are more "adventuresome" than others. The other part of the equation is how good are you at "technical driving" in your motorhome?

You may be able to look up in the outside access area to see if both fans are working. May be able to tell from there whether the fans are properly installed (exhausting UP). But, also, as I mentioned in my first post, check the recommended side and outside wall clearances recommended by your Norcold. Pay particular attention to any open area above the refrigerator, as that can cause heat to circulate rather than exhaust.

Danny, What brand and model? Are the controls on the unit, or do you have a separate thermostat? Has it always done this, or is this a new issue?

That is quite a wide temperature range. Start by pulling out your refrigerator installation manual (or access it on-line). Compare your installation with that specified by your refrigerator maker. Is it in a slide, or a fixed part of the coach such that the upper vent is in the roof vs wall? Do you have booster fans in the back of the refrigerator (outside access area)? If so, are they at or near the top of the cooling unit and exhausting up/out?

Herman, If regular low silicate coolant for diesels with added SCA and over 3 years old, you might just have it changed. Coolant is cheap compared with radiator or engine overheating or corrosion issues. If one of the new generation OAT-based coolants and over 6 years old, same thing. Brett

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-spray.html Disassemble of the carb may not be needed-- that is the purpose of the Seafoam. Their website is pretty descriptive in what needs to be done. And 124 hours in 6 years means it has likely sat for long periods of time with old gasoline in it. Is it certain that there is gunk in the carb causing the problem-- no. But it is one of the least expensive to work on and one of the most likely causes.

How old is the generator/coach? It is quite possible that with that few hours, that the carburetor is clogged up with varnish. Seafoam or other product may help.

There are two types of coolant approved for diesel engines (Cat, Cummins, etc): "Low silicate coolant for diesel with added SCA" and the new-generation OAT-based long life coolants. SCA= Supplemental Coolant Additive SCA is used up/is sacrificial and needs to be replenished or cylinder wall erosion will occur in linered engines. Larger diesels such as the L10 have replaceable liners for the cylinder walls rather than having the cylinders bored into the block (called parent blocks). The SCA's protect the outside of the cylinder liner from being pitted in the coolant jackets around the cylinder. These coolants need to be changed every three years AND have the SCA level checked and brought back up each oil change. There are little test strips that determine: SCA concentration, freeze point and pH. Any shop that works on diesels will have them. The new-generation coolants (Caterpillar has one, Cummins has one, others have them) have a 6 year life with no maintenance in normal use in an RV (under 300,000 miles in the 6 years). If over 300,000 miles they need a one-time booster added. Many of us have switched to the new, better coolants. I have a Caterpillar engine, so I choose Caterpillar ELC. If I had a Cummins, I would choose a Fleetguard equivalent. And, I know you did not ask for advice on this, but if you are not pretty mechanical, I would probably not consider one of that age/condition. Brett

NO QUESTION, 17 year old tires are very dangerous and need to be replaced. Clearly, sitting unused is one of the hardest things on any machine. I would have it checked mechanically. Be sure they test the coolant-- the L10 is a linered engine. If SCA has been neglected you could have major engine damage that would be hard to detect.

Bill, If you have the primary fuel filter/water separator with a clear plastic bowl, there is no need to "drain separator daily" as written in most manuals. It can be both a messy job and can introduce air into the fuel system. Instead, keep the outside of the plastic bowl clean so that you can SEE if there is any debris or water in the bowl. If you see anything bot clean, golden colored diesel, THEN drain until you see clean, golden colored diesel.

guttu, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Verify that you have 12+ VDC to the refrigerator (outside access door). Have you done the "burner area tune-up" as outlined in your refrigerator owners manual? It takes no parts and no special tools. Causes addressed in the tuneup include: Rust, debris or insect nest in burner tube. Rust, debris or insect next between ignitor and burner tube (shorting out ignitor). Improper ignitor gap. Debris in the propane jet. If it does not light and stay going after a tune-up and with proper 12 VDC voltage, tell us exactly how far in the process it gets: Have someone else turn it on so you can determine exactly at what point the process breaks down. Do you hear the ignitor "clicking"? With your hand on the propane valve (back area of refrigerator) do you feel it open (click) Do you see a flame appear? How long before the flame goes out?

Actually Mike Cannon at Roadmaster is the one who designed all the Roadmaster brake systems and would be the one I would call. Wayne Wells is their suspension guru. Brett

Tom is correct-- chassis builders bought ahead each time there was an EPA tighter standard as engine price also went up. And EPA standards follow the engine. So ENGINES manufactured after 1/1/07 are different than earlier engines, as are ones built after 1/1/10 when DEF became commonplace.

Don't rule out a Monaco 4 bag suspension coach, BUT you do need to subtract for new trailing arms: http://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-on-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

I think most will do that. We have a Pressure Pro system that monitors all 10 tires (6 on motorhome and 4 on toad). At least with our 36' coach, no need for a booster antenna-- just the monitor and sensors. Brett

Sounds like a perfect answer-- and inexpensive!