wolfe10

Many of those Gremlins will go away with batteries up to 12+ VDC. So first priority is to determine why the batteries (house for certain) is not being charged from shore power. Sadly, there enough accepted ways to wire coaches, that we can't say for sure. It may be that the battery disconnect switch needs to be ON. It may be that only the house battery bank is charged off shore power/generator or it may be that both it and the chassis battery are charged. What converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Have you checked the breaker to it on the main 120 VAC panel? Brett

Sorry, I can't help with any specific information, but this will give you a good start in an area new to you: http://www.epgsoft.com/CampgroundMap/

Agree with RVerOnTheMove. A "regular" 20+30 to 50 cheater: Connects the hot from the 20 to one hot on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. Connects the hot from the 30 to the other hot on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. It connects the neutral from BOTH the 20 and 30 to the neutral on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. It connects the ground from BOTH the 20 and 30 to the ground on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. This will NOT work if the CG outlet 15/20 is to code and is GFI protected. As I mentioned in my first post, you could pull a totally separate shore power and breaker (separate hot, neutral and ground) that could feed, say the rear A/C. It would be in no way connected to the original shore power system. Perhaps that is what he did??

Actually, if the CG is wired to current code, the 20+30 to 50 cheater won't work, as code calls for the 15/20 to be GFI protected. Yes, there are a lot of older CG's where it will work. Brett

DLDinsmore, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I totally agree that there needs to be a compelling reason to spend the money to upgrade from 30 to 50 amp service-- not an inexpensive proposition. However, while it could be done from an electrical standpoint, I am not sure I would recommend a "hybrid" electrical system. Too high a chance that someone in the future working on the system would not understand, since the wiring would be TOTALLY unique. So, my recommendation is to live with 30, convert completely to 50 amp OR, if this is to run a second A/C, just add a 15/20 amp totally separate shore power cord and breaker just for the second A/C. Choose an A/C that will draw less than 12 amps and you will be able to run it on a house 15 amp outlet.

A boiling battery could be cause by a bad battery OR too much voltage. Either will cause the same symptoms. As an example, if one cell in the battery is bad, you alternator (functioning perfectly) could try to charge 5 cells (instead of 6) at 14 VDC. That WILL boil the batteries. So, first thing to do is to check the batteries when fully charged with a hydrometer (under $10 at any auto parts house). The other thing you can/need to do is check voltage at the battery with the engine running and at high idle. Should be 13.5-14.2 VDC. If you don't have a digital voltmeter, get one. They start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc and are invaluable in diagnosing electical issues on RV's.

No information on a shop in the LA area. But, you might give these guys a call-- they troubleshoot, repair and sell RV monitor and camera system. They may be able to help you diagnose the problem. http://www.rvcams.com/Default.htm They are in LA, as in Louisiana!

Slight correction. PressurePro batteries ARE replaceable. They are not owner replaceable.

Sounds like you need to clean the A/C EVAPORATORS. If you are safe working on the roof, buy some commercial A/C evaporator cleaner (same as would be used in a stick home) and clean them. Does require some disassembly, as you need to remove the A/C shroud and then the cover over the evaporator. Not an uncommon problem in humid area to grow quite a collection of mold, mildew and bacteria.

Marina Bay RV is not inexpensive, but is very close to several marinas and the Kemah Boardwalk. About 4 miles further south on 146 is this one-- more shade and a little less costly:http://www.kemahrvresort.com/

Can't help with parks north of Houston-- close enough to our home that we just drive on through. What day/time of day would you be hitting Houston? I ride my bike through Marina Bay RV all the time-- sites are a little tight, but full hook-ups and well maintained. Very close to marinas and Kemah Boardwalk.

Unless you are driving through Houston during rush hour, easiest is to just go straight through on I 45. The College Station route is a little longer, and has small towns on it. Not terrible, but no compelling reason to go that way, as 290 into Houston can also be congested. We drive this route all the time, as we live in League City.

Yes, a reasonable option is to splice the EMS in between the Marinco inlet and the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).

DeWat, I would call Thor for detail on the installation of the shore power inlet OR, get a brand name and model off it, OR take a photo and post here.

James, Yes, if properly wired, your inverter/charger should work just fine on 30 amps. If you have a digital voltmeter AND ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC, check the following on the 50 amp female side of your 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter: Either outer straight (hot) to center straight (neutral)= 120 VAC Either outer straight (hot) to center round (ground)= 120 VAC Center straight (neutral) to center round= 0 VAC If reading are different, UNPLUG and let us know what your readings are. You could have a problem in the adapter, or with shore power, or in the coach-- but, let's start by verifying that your 50 amp female end of the adapter is supplying the proper power to your 50 amp shore power cord.

K & L, The vent for the black and gray tanks are on the roof. And, given your symptoms, you do need to make sure the vents are open and properly located (i.e. haven't fallen down into the tank). There are several brands of venturi-type vent caps that will lower the pressure of air in the tank so tank odor is sucked out the roof vents, not into the interior.

apachedees1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Were you able to determine the cause of the failure? Clearly any resistance can cause heat, which degrades the part which leads to more heat...... A wire, not properly secured with the screw at the factory might be one such source. Brett

You are welcome. Glad it worked out. Brett

Boyles Law and the Ideal Gas Law (google them) are CENTURIES OLD and are still true today-- irrespective of what sales literature says to the contrary. Yes, there are a few advantages of Nitrogen over DRY air, such as slightly larger molecule so slightly less air loss over time and no Oxygen so no oxidation/rust. BOTH Nitrogen and DRY air have major advantages over WET air-- that supplied by most small home compressors and those coin op air machines at convenience stores (THEY DON'T HAVE DRYERS ON THEM). So, Nitrogen is great, but I would not pay a lot extra for it over DRY air. I refuse to air up my RV or car unless the air is DRY/there is an air dryer on the system. Perhaps if I lived in the desert SW this would not be an issue, but this time of year with the dew point in the 60-70's, it IS an issue.

RJ, A couple of manufacturers HAVE had issues with poorly designed or executed transmission coolers that allow coolant into the transmission. But, this is NOT a wide-spread problem. I would ask that question on your brand owner's technical website to see if this is an issue with your particular unit. If it is, Hayden makes transmission coolers of all sized. Note, if it working properly and does not leak, the cooler in the radiator works VERY well. In cold weather, the heat from the engine helps get the transmission oil up to temperature, and in hot weather, cools it. A separate oil to air cooler does not warm up the fluid in cold conditions-- in fact, can "over-cool" it. Brett

Tom, Have you checked voltage at the refrigerator itself (outside access door of refrigerator. Check connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Might look at the fuse back there to make sure it is clean and no corrosion as well. Brett

RJ, It is difficult to compare transmission temperatures with the Allison transmission between different coach makers, as there is no "proper" location for the sender unit. Some chassis/coach makers mount them in the transmission, some in the line out of the transmission to the cooler and some in the return line from the cooler. Different readings at each. If this reading is in the line out to the transmission cooler, that is fine. Because the torque converter in your Allison locks up at higher RPM's in 2nd", and is locked in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gear there is not a lot of heat buildup due to the converter slippage except in very slow stop and start driving. The transmission will generate more heat is when stopped for a long period with the transmission in Drive. Easy solution if you are stopped and transmission temperature starts climbing is to put it in Neutral until you are ready to move again. The other cause of added heat load is, as it is on any transmission, HUNTING. Hunting between gears is caused by a grade that is not so steep that it stays in the lower gear, but too steep to remain in the next higher gear. So the transmission shifts-- for example 5-4-5-4-5-4. This builds heat in any transmission. Easy solution on any transmission is to dowhshift so that the transmission stays in the lower gear until the grade eases and you can return to a higher gear. With your Allison, use the "down arrow" to select the lower gear when this occurs. After the grade eases, hit "D" or use the "up arrow". Brett

You have quite likely found the root cause if the issue-- loose connections on the inverter/charger. And, 12.5 VDC with the charger on is NOT proper. Suspect it is a three stage charger, so charging voltage in bulk mode should be 14 or more volts. After it has been plugged in long enough that the batteries are fully charged, the voltage in float mode should be 13.2-13.5 VDC.

Ron, Couple of questions: Have you checked the fluid level using the shift pad?: http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet/DownloadFile?Dir=publications/pubs&FileToGet=SA3360EN.pdf Was this the same temperature you saw under the same conditions before the fluid/filter change? And assume you used Transynd (TES-295). Should have been about 19 quarts to change it. Brett

Check again after it runs overnight. Absorption refrigerators do not cool especially quickly and do start with cooling in the freezer. Norcold recall information: http://www.norcoldrecall.com/