wolfe10

Absolutely drain and fill at a very minimum. Assume it was run after replacing the fluid (at least to move it out of the shop). So, wouldn't hurt to drain, fill, take off the return line and run at idle (adding fluid as fluid comes out the return line) until clean ATF comes out. Were it mine, I would do that and then do it again after 100 miles or so. Fluid and filters are cheap. As you have probably found out, hydraulic components are NOT. BTW, there is no standard here. Some hydraulic systems run on hydraulic fluid, some on ATF and some on motor oil. Ours happens to run on Delo 400 15-40 motor oil. As long as you use the fluid that the whole system was designed to run on AND DON'T MIX OTHER FLUIDS WITH IT you are good to go. Brett

Paul, As I am sure you and everyone else is aware Cummins (as well as Caterpillar, Freightliner, Ford, Chevy, etc) dealers are all independent businesses. Some are well run and have excellent service departments-- others are not. Impossible to paint all dealers of a certain brand as good/bad. As the General Manager of large metro dealerships for many years, I can tell you there ARE differences!

Sabrina, Here is a good place to start: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down.html Just click on the year model you are interested in. Not much help for us to tell you what vehicle meets OUR needs, as yours may be very different. Things like manual vs automatic, what weight toad your coach can handle, whether you are looking for a car or SUV-- all are different. Brett

There will be two different fans: Engine driven fan which has a viscous hub clutch and an electric fan(s) in front of the condenser. The electric fan(s) are activated by the dash A/C and may be activated by a separate temperature sensor as well-- I have not worked on that particular model. Hopefully, someone with that model can give specifics on the electric fan circuitry.

#PIP4973A: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6SP Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 - (Nov 21, 2011) Subject: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6SP Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 Models: 2011 - 2012 Buick Enclave, LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011 - 2012 Cadillac SRX 2011 - 2012 Chevrolet Cruze, Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only), Sonic 2011 - 2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain With a 6SP Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission This PI was superseded to update recommended field. Please discard PIP4973. The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern: Dinghy towing Quick Reference for 6T70/75 and 6T30/40/45 for 2011 and 2012 Recommendation/Instructions: 2011 - 2012 Buick LaCrosse, Enclave 2011 - 2012 Cadillac SRX 2011 - 2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2011 - 2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain With automatic transmission 6T70/75 (RPOs MH2, MH4, MH6, MY9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual direction for proper instructions.   2011 - 2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Malibu 2012 Chevrolet Sonic 2011 - 2012 GMC Terrain With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MH7, MH8, MH9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual direction for proper instructions.   These following vehicles are NOT dinghy towable. 2011 - 2012 Buick LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011 - 2012 Chevrolet Cruze 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only) With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MHH, MH7, MH8, MH9) are NOT dinghy towable and could cause damage to your vehicles transmission if towed in this manner. These repairs would not be covered under the vehicles powertrain warranty. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. file:///C:/Users/Brett/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image003.png WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION © 2012 General Motors. All rights reserved.

CleanLivin, As Herman suggests, solid vs IFS is certainly not the only variable that determines how a coach will handle. There are many fine handling solid front axle coaches out there. An analogy that may make this clearer is automobile suspensions. A Ford Escort has 4 wheel McPherson strut suspension. So does a BMW. But, if one were to drive the Escort, it would be wrong to draw the conclusion that "all vehicles built on 4 wheel McPherson strut suspensions handle poorly. There are some very simple explanations for what you experienced: Was tire pressure correct, or could it have been off by 20 or more PSI? Had the chassis been aligned after the coach was built on it-- often this is delayed until after loading so it could be way off. Brett

NO. Even under ideal conditions (always properly inflated, always protected from UV light, no road hazards, etc) 10 years-- the "Fat Lady Has Sung". Don't risk your and your family's life.

As a follow up, on one sidewall of each tire is a complete DOT number. The last four digits (usually in a slightly different-looking area, as this part of the mold is changed each week) are the WEEK and YEAR the tire was produced. Note, the complete DOT number could be facing inboard, instead of being on the outside where it is easily read. Brett

If, repeat if the recommended tire pressure for your actual weight is 85-90 PSI an the tires were run any distance at 55 PSI, that qualifies as RUN FLAT by tire manufacturers and they should be replaced. The flexing that occurs with tires that underinflated can severely damage their structural integrity.

Rob, It would help for us to know what type of motorhome you have. If you have a Diesel Pusher, you already have a built in air system with dryer-- may be no need for the weight and expense of a separate air compressor. As far as tire stem extenders, best place to start is your wheel manufacturer. You may want extenders, or you may want new longer valve stems. Again, if we knew whether you have steel wheels, Aluminum wheels, and brand it would help. As far as the higher amp draw of larger water pumps, read the prospective pump's amp rating. Compare this with your present pump's rating/the amp rating of the fuse and wiring for your present pressure water system.

Front-end alignment out of camber is very unusual on a solid front axle (assuming that is what you have) and rarely causes cupping. And you may be looking for two DIFFERENT stores -- a tire dealer who works with OTR trucks and diesel pushers and a front end alignment shop who does the same. Yes, there are some who do both. But, you will need to let us know what area of the country you are in so we may be able to recommend specific shops.

Randy, First, lets all agree that these are NOT frost-free refrigerators. Said another way, some level of condensation will occur. Hopefully, most of it will condense on the fins at the back of the refrigerator where it can drain out the condensate drain. Please verify that the condensate drain is not plugged, other than with the restrictor fit in the outer end by Dometic to limit air flow into the refrigerator through the condensate drain. Also verify that that restrictor has not been removed as it would allow a constant stream of outside air in. The freezer is different. Here, you have to defrost. May need to once a week in humid conditions if you open the freezer frequently or once a month if in the SW desert. Things that lead to more condensation: 1. Humid climate. When air with a dew point higher than the temperature of the refrigerators gets inside, it WILL condense. 2. The more times the refrigerator is opened, the more humid air enters. 3. If the door is not properly adjusted/gasket not properly sealing, a lot more air will enter. Do the "dollar bill test" (Note: this IS an RV, so a $10 bill works better). Insure that as you close the door on the bill, that there is some pull needed to remove the bill and that the amount of pull is uniform around the whole gasket. Brett

Marty, Many automatic leveling systems need to have the level sensor adjusted to agree with a good carpenter's level. Might try that before concluding that it won't level properly when deployed automatically.

Yes, always check ride height BEFORE doing an alignment. Though ride height on an air suspension DP will not cause uneven tire wear, it can sure affect a lot of other things like ride, handling and wear of suspension and driveline components. And there is nothing difficult about checking ride height. You DO need jack stands/safety stands to support the weight of the coach anytime you go under to work, particularly if adjusting the ride height. Get the ride height specs for your chassis from your chassis maker.

Arvid, I suspect a slight miss-communication on terms. If your coach has 50 amp service (plug has 4 prongs), you have two hots, a neutral and a ground. As measured from hot to hot, it will read 240 VAC. As measured from either hot to neutral or ground, it will read 120 VAC. And this is what your coach is wired for. But, if the CG is miswired, an open neutral, etc, voltage could go well over 120-- even up to 240. NOT GOOD. I suspect the protector you list will work just fine since it is for 50 amp RV connection.

Sure, Here is one: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/towing/accessories/electrical/roadmaster/7-4-wire-plug.htm You can also find a 7 to 4 adapter and then use your existing 4 way harness to the toad. Brett

Len, You might send him a PM (Private Message). Click on the person's name on the left side of their post. Then click on "Send me a message". Brett

Ed, Excellent. Thanks for the update. Yes, travel is a wonderful experience.

Bill, Two different (very different) issues: 1. Do many follow a natural progression from towables to motorhomes as they "move up" that will add to future FMCA membership? In my opinion-- Yes. If so we need to find a way to introduce them to FMCA and attending a convention is a great introduction. 2. Are we properly welcoming them today/at the Indianapolis convention? I agree with you-- not likely. Brett

Bill, Many, many motorhomers started out in towables. Attending an FMCA Convention would be a GREAT way for them to be exposed to the product, the lifestyle and maintenance issues. In fact, I can't think of a better "Graduation Ceremony". Yes, some start right out in motorhomes. But the majority start in other RV's (or like us boats). Brett

Not sure a fan is necessary, but were you to fit one, you would install a compute muffin fan low and in the inlet side (away from Hydrogen).

Lots of discussions on the Ford Escape. Go to the search box in the upper right corner of this page. Type in "Escape towing". Brett

I agree with Bill. One vent high and one low is best. Yes, Hydrogen which is explosive is lighter than air, but the sulfuric acid vapors which are corrosive are heavier than air. A vent high and low serves both. Orient the vent such that they are in a clean area in terms of road splash and if possible, take advantage of natural air flow when driving, as the majority of alternators are NOT "smart" and will keep batteries at 13.7-14.5 VDC while driving-- the equivalent of keeping the batteries in bulk charge mode all day.

Azwidemind, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The vacuum pump "powers" the vacuum motors that tell the air in your dash HVAC system where to come out, recirculate/not recirculate, etc. And if one of the vacuum motors OR a vacuum line to one has a leak, then, yes, your pump could run all the time. No big thing to trace. Access the back of the HVAC panel. Pull the vacuum line from the pump and block it off. Turn on the ignition. Pump should run and pull a vacuum, then shut off. If not, the problem is in the pump or the line from pump to HAVC controls. In some older installations, there is a remote vacuum switch that turns the pump on/off that also needs to be checked. If it holds a vacuum, reattach the vacuum line and listen for a vacuum leak at the HVAC control. If none start checking each vacuum motor/line to them for a leak. I would ask your coach maker for the name of the company that provides your HVAC controls. Many have on-line diagrams and troubleshooting help. Brett

The generator provides 120 VAC just like shore power and just like in your house. The converter/charger takes that 120 VAC from either generator or shore power and charges the batteries which are 12 VDC. When you turn off the generator or disconnect from shore power, you have no 120 VAC UNLESS you have an inverter. An inverter takes battery 12 VDC and makes it into 120 VAC. Inverters were not standard on many older and lower end coaches. Brett