wolfe10

Pat, Filon has a VERY thin layer of gel coat compared with regular fiberglass layups. That is why you can see the random strands of glass in the surface. And, yes it can easily be destroyed by someone not familiar with Filon. I don't think re-gelcoating is practical. Painting would be the only practical option if this is important to you.

http://www.fmcmagazine.com/advertising/117 OR Classifieds Contact For information about classified advertising, contact Bridget Lynn, classifieds coordinator, (800) 543-3622, (800) 543-4717 Fax, e-mail magazineclassifieds@fmca.com

Neal, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The FMCA Magazine does have a section in Classified: "Lots for Sale or Rent". There are 4+ pages of line ads in the January 2012 magazine.

Lowell, There are several names for SCA. Another is DCA. Your Cummins book's cooling section should have a discussion on it. There are basically two very different coolants that are approved for HD diesel engines: 1. And most common from the factory is "Low silicate coolant for diesel with added SCA". SCA is used up protecting the cylinder liners and must be replenished. Normal change interval is 3 years. 2. The new-generation OAT-based coolants-- both Caterpillar and Cummins/Fleetguard have them. No SCA to test or add. 6 year life in an RV with other maintenance (at least on Caterpillar ELC), and I suspect on Fleetguard as well as we don't drive enough miles (300,000 in 3 years) to require the single "booster" required on OTR Trucks. First step is to VERIFY that coolant you have in there. Mixing coolant #1 with coolant #2 is not a good idea. If #1, then you will need test strips. If 3+ years on #1 (time starts when chassis is built) you should change it. Below is a link to Wix website for a box of 12 individually packaged 3-packs of test strips. I would NOT suggest buying a whole box as they do expire (have exporation date on them), Do NOT use past exporation date or results are not reliable. Any place that works on HD diesels will have the test strips, and any parts house catering to the HD diesel trade should have them. Be sure to check date on the strips when you purchase them. They are an easy "dip in coolant, wait a few seconds and compare colors". Very similar to pool chemical testing. http://www.wixfilter....asp?Part=24105

Clarence, Nothing complex about installing/programming the PressurePro. Two people makes it easier. Dianne sat in the driver's seat and pushed the buttons on the monitor to bring up the next wheel position to be programmed and I installed the senders-- merely screwed them on as if they were large valve stem caps. I have not installed the cross fire system, but it does not appear from their literature that installation is complicated either. But, yes, Strouhl down on 288 is also where I get my Michelin tires. They do a lot of motorhome tires. Brett

What make and model?

Pat, Is the side of your coach filon, gel coated fiberglass or painted? Is there any difference in the areas affected vs areas that still shine-- is there a sharp line separating the two areas that look different, or is it just some general area on the upper sides? Both sides?

Yup, Boyle penned that in 1662-- we still follow the same laws of physics. WAIT. I have heard it said that the laws of physics don't apply to rich people. Hopefully someone rich enough to know will post.

The thumper will never give you accurate PSI readings. But it is an excellent device for quickly telling of a tire is significantly low on pressure. Your hand and/or IR gun will give the same information. A tire run substantially under inflated WILL be running HOT.

No, inert gas means a gas that it is "non-reactive: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inert_gas The molecules of any gas, including inert gasses all follow the ideal gas law-- PSI is related to temperature.

Again, without knowing the make and model of the appliances you have, we can't tell you whether you will have a pilot light or electronic ignition. Our coach is also a 1993, and all the appliances have electronic ignition-- none have pilot lights.

Linda22, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you turn on the furnace and the fan runs, go walk around the outside of the coach and you will very quickly discover the source of the "noise" as well as air flow. And, a 1993 model is very likely to NOT have a pilot light-- but you will need to open the outside access door and tell us the make and model for us to know. I suspect it has electronic ignition. Normal furnace sequence is: Thermostat signal to PC board. PC board starts the fan. If fan is moving enough air to close the "Sail Switch" the PC board turns on the propane and at the same time sparks the igniter. So, places to start troubleshooting: Verify that you have propane-- turn on a stove burner-- is the flame "normal size"? If the fan is running, but nothing past that happens, the next thing to check is why the sail switch may not be closing. Inadequate air flow to close the sail switch can be caused by an obstruction of the air return (inside coach), closed vents, crushed ducts, low voltage-- with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) verify that voltage AT THE FURNACE (outside panel) is at least 12.2 VDC. If lower than that, it is unlikely that the fan is turning fast enough to close the sail switch. Please let us know what you find and we will be glad to help. Brett

I saw one in a Travel Supreme mid-engine chassis/garage model coach at an FMCA Convention.

Henry, There is some validity to both their answers. Dual pane windows ARE prone to fogging, and at a higher rate than in home installations because of the likelihood that bouncing down the road adds to the chance of breaking a seal. If you camp in very cold or hot areas, the added expense and maintenance may well be worth it. Heat pumps are more efficient at providing heat in the 40 degrees F and up temperatures, particularly if you are not paying for power where you camp. So, if you often camp in 40+ degree F conditions and have electricity there, it may be a worthwhile option. If temperature is below about 40 degrees F, heat pumps loose efficiency and cease to function properly. And, of course, if you primarily camp in the summer, it is a moot point. The heat pump function does add a small degree more complexity to the A/C, as the valve that "reverses" the coolant can stick. Brett

Harkey, Indeed, your Freedom only serves as the charging unit, with this Intellitech controller serving as the combiner. From their written description, it has both an "under" voltage disconnect and and "over" voltage disconnect. So, first thing is to verify that output voltage from your Freedom inverter/charger IS in the proper range. If not, please go through the programming steps outlined in your Freedom manual. This was called "setting the dip switches" on older Freedom models. It is a good idea to do this twice a year anyway as ambient temperature is one of the things you are programming (assuming you don't have the upgraded battery temperature probe). If voltage is in the right range, and you are good with electrical diagnostics, you can check that the relays are closed when the should be and open when they should not be. A problem could be in a bad relay which would likely be separately replaceable or in the control board which may not be repairable. Brett

Please look closely at the "control and relays" that connect the coach batteries/inverter-charger to the chassis battery. If it has a brand an model on it-- please post.

Nothing that sophisticated. Just a ball peen hammer. Never relied on it to tell exact PSI, but it, along with placing my hand lightly on the sidewall to check temperature every time we stopped (ya, one of these days I will get an IR gauge-- don't want to jump into the new millennium too quickly) would tell me if something was enough wrong that I should check with a gauge. Already had fun watching the PressurePro monitor for tire PSI today while driving. Predicted a 2-3 PSI increase in the side exposed to the sun as we drove one way-- it happened. As sun went to the other side, sure enough the 2-3 PSI higher readings shifted to the other side. Professor Boyle would be so proud-- RV's DO follow the laws of physics! Brett

I decided to join this century and install a complete tire PSI monitoring system in our coach and toad. After a lot of research, decided on the PressurePro. I liked the quality of the components and being designed and built in the U.S. was a big plus. The reports from current owners were also very positive. Programming was very simple-- of course with expert directions from Dianne who sat in the driver's seat and told me in what order to install the sensors as they automatically program in that location and PSI. The whole process took 20 minutes for the 10 tires. Can't believe I waited this long. The peace of mind of knowing that all the tires are at their correct PSI is great. Now, what will I do with that tire bat??? No more tire thumping at each stop and checking with a gauge once a week. Sadly, Dianne already has a list that will occupy what I though would be a little spare time.

And, this from a long-time refrigeration expert who works with me on the FMCA Technical Advisory Committee: Things the owner should check starting with the basics. 1 - Is there 12 Volts AT THE REFRIG TERMINAL BLOCK? if yes, 2 - Is there 120 volts at the Duplex outlet? 3 - If Yes, is there 120 volts coming out of the control module to the heater? If No, bad module 4 - If yes and there is no heat on the boiler, Bad heater 5 - If the heater is getting hot and no cooling - 6 - Then switch to Gas operation - 7 - If still no cooling, bad cooling unit.

Jim, Facing the motorhome up a SLIGHT hill is OK. But, remember, the parking brake is on the REAR wheels. So, you never want to have to use the rear jacks to the point where the rear tires are close to leaving the ground. Using boards, large enough to support the whole "footprint" of the tire to get close to level is a really good idea. Brett

Yes, as Herman said, welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are two heat sources for an absorption refrigerator: 120 VAC and propane. They share a cooling system-- if the cooling systems leaks, neither will work. Evidence of a cooling system failure would be an ammonia smell and/or yellow powder which could be evidenced either inside the refrigerator or by looking at "all the tubing" in the refrigerator outside access door. They also share the same thermostat system and the PC board which makes "the decisions" on power source and when to run. So first thing to check is that you have 12 VDC to the PC board. Without that, neither heat source will work, as the PC board will not work. Next step-- begin troubleshooting the heat sources. 120 VAC: There is a fuse on the PC board (back of refrigerator-- accessed through the outside refrigerator door). If fuse is OK (AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC), check for 120 VAC at the leads for the heating element which is in the "stack" above the burner with the refrigerator turned on. It could be a failed heating element. You can also check the heating element with an ohm meter. Propane: Turn on propane at the tank. Light the stove to verify that any air has been bled from the system. Put the refrigerator control on propane. Listen carefully for a "clicking" noise of the igniter and then visually check for a small flame (outside refrigerator access door). If no flame visible/burner area does not get hot, start with the "burner area tune-up" as described in your refrigerator owners manual. No special tools and no parts are required. Note: An absorption refrigerator takes overnight to reach proper working temperatures. Cooling starts with the freezer, then the refrigerator. If you need more help, please tell us what you find works and doesn't work.

No, but I will forward this to my contact on the FMCA Staff. Brett

For the P chassis from suspension, you have basically two choices. One is to replace the complete front springs with heavier duty ones speced for your actual weight such as these: http://www.henderson...xle-weight.html The other is to replace the air bags themselves-- many do it yourselfers have done it, others take it to someone else for this work. The air bags are an integral part of the front suspension, and driving with them deflated CHANGES FRONT END ALIGNMENT. This will both wear out tires and could be a safety issue were you to have to perform a panic maneuver.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your best bet is to call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number. They can pull up information specific to your engine/engine display and give you that information. Their number toll free number is 877 777-3126.

My recommendation for researching any extended warranty is to do two things: 1. READ THE FINE PRINT. 2. Talk with the service manager of places you are likely to have service work done (or just a sampling of the larger RV, chassis and your engine manufacturer's dealerships in your area). Their recommendation on what companies pay promptly, don't look for loopholes to get out of paying each claim, etc. will be far more valuable than a small sample size of respondents here.