wolfe10

Good point, Chuck. We don't know whether he has a propane-fueled heater or hydronic system. TOTALLY different. Please let us know AND any other diagnostic clues you have observed.

Have you checked that your that your leveling system "indicators" ARE actually calibrated with a carpenter's level?

This post from Generator Jim (he is unable to get online right now): Potted ONAN electronic regulators are now capped at 132 volts which is considered a safe voltage level. 108 is considered the low limit. Have the him check frequency of unit (speed) as, even with electronic regulation, speed has an effect on voltage. Voltage level is not normally adjustable in the rv units, although it can be done by rewiring the regulator plug with a rheostat. The wiring diagram for the rheostat is in the 50 cycle and commercial unit wiring diagram. Jim Latour (generator jim)

Chuck, Just FYI, Caterpillar ELC coolant IS red. I am positive, since I drained mine today to replace a faulty block heater. So, as you say, color is NOT a good determinant of fluid type/source. Brett

Eddie, You are correct with two caveats: Your answer ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- not likely with most coaches. The tire manufacturer's chart gives the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. So, until you get individual wheel position weights, you need a "fudge factor" to account for unequal weight distribution. Once you have individual wheel position weights, go to your tire manufacturer's load chart with the HEAVIER WHEEL POSITION ON EACH AXLE. It's PSI is then used on ALL tires on that axle. And, because you don't want to have to worry about PSI every time you add weight-- fill with fuel and a big shopping trip at Walmart, you need to add a little to compensate for more than that weight you measured. So, most add 5 PSI to compensate for left right weight imbalance and 5 PSI to give you a little safety cushion (over minimum PSI for a given weight)-- as long as this PSI does not exceed the tire or wheel maximums. And as soon as you are able to do individual wheel position weighing, you MAY be able to lower PSI a little if your left/right weight distribution is close. Conclusion, I would run 100 front/90 rear until you have individual wheel position weights. BTW, that is cold PSI-- NOT at a specific temperature, but before driving at whatever ambient temperature you are in. Brett

What generator? Include model numbers if you have them. Was this no load? If so, what was voltage under 50% load?

I have a minor difference of opinion from the excellent post by vtbigdog. On descending a grade, gas or diesel, the objective is to find a gear (with diesel, transmission gear AND use of exhaust or engine brake) THAT WILL KEEP YOUR SPEED IN EQUILIBRIUM. By that I mean neither accelerating nor decelerating WITHOUT USING THE SERVICE BRAKES/BRAKE PEDAL. Those truck "Run Away Lanes" on major grades are for heavy vehicles that used there service brakes to the point where they overheated and became ineffective. So, use gears/engine brakes to keep your speed in check-- IRRESPECTIVE OF STRAIGHT/CURVES in the road. As a good reference, your equilibrium speed will be faster than loaded 18 wheelers and slower than empty ones-- straight physics (braking HP vs weight). Example: We were descending a 12% grade in the Green Mountains (REALLY steep). I was in second gear with the exhaust brake on in our diesel. We were going down about 18 MPH. Dianne was concerned someone would rear end us. Around the next corner, we quickly overtake and passed a logging truck doing about 8 MPH-- his equilibrium speed. Even though the curves in the road said we could go 30-35 MPH, doing so would mean WAY over-using the service brakes. Brett

Gary, Not familiar with our chassis, but red fluid means either ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) which can be used for hydraulics as well as for the transmission, OR coolant. By feeling it/smelling it you should be able to tell the difference between an oil and a coolant. And the manual that came with your chassis should tell you what that reservoir/site glass is for. Plan "B": Hopefully, someone with the same chassis will be log in. If not, call Tiffin in the morning. Brett

Ernie, What was the problem with the 50 amp service?

Ron, What chassis, the Ford V10 6.8l is a high RPM engine compared with the GM V8 8.1l? What transmission, Ford 4 speed, 5 speed, GM 4 speed, Allison 5 speed? Brett

Let me caution that with a brand new vehicle, your first stop and ultimate authority would be your local Ford dealer. While we can offer seat of the pants advice that may indeed work out, your local dealer is a better resource. Either from their knowledge or from their contact with a technical rep at Ford (who you as a customer can not access) they are ultimately the ones who have to stand behind your new vehicle (or tell you that the modification you made destroyed XXX and it will cost $$$$$ to fit-- NOT covered by warranty).

Herman, Remember the time stamp on a post is the time in YOUR time zone. The poster may be on the west coast.

You might contact Henderson and ask them for shop recommendations in your area.

303 Aerospace http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/1/303-aerospace-protectant.cfm is the only product I am aware of that is good for vinyl decals. Brett

No question, improper installation is a common issue with RV refrigerators and often leads to sub-par performance. Always a good idea to pull up your refrigerator's installation manual and VERIFY that installation clearances ARE correct.

Yup, just got back from doing some work on the sailboat. If you don't already have a copy, here is an air brake system check: Air Brake System Pre-trip Check 1. Be on reasonably level ground. Block wheels so the coach can not move even with the parking brake off. 2. Start engine and run until full air pressure is reached. Listen for the dryer to purge (about 120 PSI). 3. Shut off the engine. 4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button (make sure you don't roll, and do NOT apply the brake pedal). 5. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose more than 2 PSI per minute. 6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF). 7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose any more than 3 PSI per minute. 8. With the engine off, ignition on and parking brake off, rapidly pump the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30 PSI. 9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure again. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at “cruising RPM”. It should be less than 45 seconds.

Is that rate of leakage acceptable per DOT and industry standards-- yes. Is it possible with soap and water and small brush or "kiddie bubble" solution that you could find a small leak-- yes. If you go under the coach to look for the problem, be sure to use safety stands.

Clarance, What were the details supporting his recommendation???

First step is to verify that the leveling system is indeed leveling the coach. I would use a large carpenter's level check it. It is possible that the systems level sensor needs adjustment. Sure, it could be something more serious, but it could also be a 2 minute job with a screwdriver to adjust the sensor. Brett

John, Another possibility is that yours is uniquely installed. Might find a convenient measuring point-- say wall to outboard edge of seat mounting plate and ask others with the same coach to measure theirs. You could also call Fleetwood and discuss this and what would be involved in centering it (if it is even possible). Brett

John, Replacing the 13.5kBTU with a 15.0kBTU is not difficult at all. The roof hole is the same size for each. You can check with your coach maker to verify the amp rating of the wiring and check the 120 VAC breaker for the 13.5kBTU unit. 15.0kBTU units are made in "regular" and "energy efficient" models. The energy efficient units use less power and may require no wiring modification. But, even a regular 15kBTU may not require wiring upgrade-- that you will need to confirm with your coach maker. Do not expect a large difference in output. Before spending money for this (other than at the time you would replace the unit anyway), I would look at insulating the windshield (a large source of heat, particularly if facing the sun), adding window awnings to keep the sun off them, etc before spending the big bucks on a new A/C when the current one is functioning properly. You can also add fans-- either 12 VDC or 120 VAC to help move air around. Brett

Congratulations on our new purchase and welcome to the Forum. Assume this is a diesel. If so, be sure that you store it with the fuel tank full to minimize condensation. Many add a BIOCIDE if storing diesel fuel more than a few months. If weather permits, it is not a bad idea to drive it once a month-- also a good "bonding" experience. But, don't start the engine unless you can drive a minimum of 25 highway miles-- far enough under load to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature.

Robert, Yes, a licensed electrician can wire a transfer switch such that you can run your home from either power company or generator. And, it is critical that only one source be used at a time, AND that there is no way for the generator to "back feed" the power company grid. Back feeding can easily kill a lineman working on repairing the grid. Now, using two different generators at the same time is a lot more complex. You would need to split your loads into two sub-panels with each generator supplying only those circuits on its sub-panel. Said another way, there is no way that the HZ of two generators (there are exceptions, but not the units you have) can be synchronized. So in essence each generator would supply a unique set of circuits. This means not only separating the hots, but also the neutrals as you divide the loads into the two sub-panels. Not sure what you mean by a 50 and 30 amp 5.5KW generator. 5.5 KW= 45.8 amps @ 120 VAC. And, that will be a single hot (i.e. not 120/240 like a 50 amp RV outlet). 240 VAC generators are very rare, as the voltage regulator can regulate ONE leg/hot. If the other leg/hot has a substantially different load, it's voltage will be substantially different-- NOT GOOD. So most are wired as 120 VAC only. Brett

Difficult for us to give you advice-- the labor to replace a tank can vary widely. Some are an easy drop out/in, others require virtually rebuilding the coach. First call I would make is to your coach maker for their input on labor involved in replacing the tank on your particular model coach.

Might try giving the CG a call: (717) 534-8999.