wolfe10

Yes, just as Bill said, your RV runs on 12 VDC. To make 12 VDC from two 6 VDC batteries, the two batteries are wired in SERIES. Positive of battery #1 to house positive. Negative of battery #1 to positive of battery #2 and negative of battery #2 to house ground. Think of the two 6 VDC batteries in series as "a 12 VDC battery in two cases". And, wired in series, amp-hr capacity of the 6 VDC batteries remains the same, though voltage doubles. So, a pair of 220 amp-hr 6 VDC batteries wired in series will give you 220 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC.

Barb, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. My recommendation on any "in engine" work would be to go to a dealer for that engine-- Caterpillar in your case. I would rather have a guy who has adjusted valves on 5 engines just like yours this week than a guy at a chassis dealer who has done 4 brake jobs, 3 front end alignments, 2 clutch jobs and may not have worked on an engine like yours in a month. For a Caterpillar dealer near you, call the Caterpillar RV Hotline toll free at: 877 777-3126. BTW, the first valve adjustment on a Caterpillar engine in RV service is 30,000 miles. The price can vary widely depending on how much (or how little) access your coach maker left to the top of the engine. In most cases, if you do the work to gain access to the top of the engine, you can save some labor charge. Brett

Tom, Running a positive and extra ground directly from coach to toad battery is a very common and reasonable practice. A couple of caveats: 1. Make sure both coach and toad batteries have a fuse as close to the batteries as possible as both ends are hot and if grounded and unfused, could cause a fire. 2. Set up the coach charge wire on a circuit only hot when the coach engine is running so it will not discharge the coach battery when dry camping. If more convenient/an ignition controlled circuit of sufficient amperage is not available, use an ignition hot circuit to control a relay with the main current (large lug) of the relay going directly to the battery (fused of course). No sure there is any one ideal brake system out there-- that is why some companies offer more than one type of brake. If you don't intend to change vehicles often and don't want to fool with moving and setting up a portable brake system, the Invibrake should fit your needs. It is permanently installed out of the way, with nothing to do to have the vehicle tow-ready. It has both vacuum to operate the toad's brake booster and a high pressure ram that activates the toad's brake pedal through a cable (so the ram can be located out of the way).

Bill, I was experiencing the same need to re-log in-- sometimes in the middle of a post. But, I have not experienced this in the last 10+ days. Is this still an ongoing issue for you? Brett

What year and what engine?

mrboyer is correct, IF, repeat IF the CG outlet is properly wired. Many energy management systems need to see 240 VAC between the hots in order to operate properly. If the outlet is wired incorrectly, with both hots coming from the same side of the CG main breaker box you coach will not sense "proper 50 amp power". That is why I suggested measuring hot to hot (outer straight to outer straight) to VERIFY that the outlet is properly wired.

To follow up on Bill's post, to tell if you have 30 amp or 50 amp coach, look at the male end of the shore power cord: 30 amp has 3 prongs. 50 amp has 4 prongs. If your shore power cord is 50 amp and you are plugged into a properly wired 50 amp RV receptacle, you should have 50 amp (two hots) service. IF YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC, start by verifying that the CG receptacle is properly wired: Outer straight (either) to center straight= 120 VAC Outer straight (either) to center round= 120 VAC Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC If not, AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC electricity, remove the cover from the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and check from black to white and then from red to white on the "IN" from shore power and also on the "OUT" to the coach 120 VAC breaker box. Readings from black (hot) to white (neutral)= 120 VAC. Reading from red (other hot) to white (neutral)= 120 VAC. Reading from black to red= 240 VAC. If that is OK, then you need to contact Winnebago, as they likely have an energy management system that could have a problem. But you do want to be able to tell them that indeed two hots are are there and properly wired.

Actually, with most vehicles you would use this with (as it lifts the front wheels off the ground) being front wheel drive it would put more than half a vehicle's weight on the hitch. And as you point out, that much weight 10' or so behind the rear axle will add well more than that weight on the rear axle and remove some weight front the front axle. So, you would need to verify: Hitch rating (particularly tongue weight) Enough rear axle capacity (GAWR minus actual weight) to accommodate at least 130% of the added weight-- more if you have a longer rear overhang. And, if the front axle is already underloaded, this will make ride and handling worse. Will this work on some applications, particularly with tax axle DP's yes. But be VERY careful out there. Brett

I have sent the OP a Private Message asking for clarification on that furnace he has, as we are following two very different lines of ASSUMPTIONS on what he has. Brett

Check with your chassis manufacturer. They will have scheduled maintenance schedules. With a Caterpillar engine, also consider this FMCA Chapter (http://www.catrvclub.org/ ) and its technical forum http://www.catrvclub.org/forum/ Once on the Cat RV Club Forum homepage, click on "Forum" to see discussion on each major system.

Koliver, Sorry, I don't have any first hand information on any of the 2007 and newer diesels-- heck, mine Caterpillar engine was built in 1992. It may (or may not) be similar to running any post 1975 automobile equipped with catalytic converter on leaded fuel. This generally resulted in a rather expensive repair including oxygen sensor(s) and new converter. Brett

Koliver, Actually, I suspect the OP has a propane furnace. Brett

I don't have a single "this is the only one to get": Features you want: 3 stage charger (bulk, absorption and float). Setting for battery technology (wet cell, AGM or gel) helpful, but with AGM's not a requirement. If you don't do a lot of dry camping, a 40 amp smart charger is large enough. If you do a lot of dry camping (i.e. you run your generator just to charge the batteries), bigger is better. A charge with dual output is a plus-- it can independently charger both house and chassis batteries. This is not a requirement, as you can use an Echo charger, solenoid or Trik L Charger to charge the chassis battery. Look for these features and you will be happy with the results.

I just got off the phone with my contact at Caterpillar Corporation on another matter. When I called, he was just finishing a conversation with the owner of a newer coach in trouble in Mexico. As I think all of us know, ALL engines (Caterpillar, Cummins, etc) built after 1/1/07 (this is ENGINE build date, not chassis or coach build date) require ULSD. Repeat, all diesel engine built after 1/1/07 require ULSD fuel. ULSD fuel has less than 15 PPM Sulfur. The call was from a guy with a post 2007 engine in Acapulco-- WAY more than the range on ULSD roundtrip from the U.S. And ULSD is not available in Mexico with VERY limited exception (like right along the U.S. border where some of the towns in Mexico get fuel from the U.S.). 500 or more PPM Sulfur Mexican diesel "AIN'T" the same! He also pointed out that there was not a single dealership in Mexico trained on the 2007 and newer emissions engines (Suspect the same thing for Cummins, etc) since they do not have these engines in Mexico. Just FYI.

Doc, Best advice is to see what mil specs your Cummins owners manual recommends for your engine. If you don't have a Cummins manual, get one from any Cummins dealer (will need your engine serial number) . You could also give Cummins a call with your engine serial number and ask them: Cummins 800 343-7357 Brett

Thanks for the post. Is this the CG (southern GA)? http://www.militarycampgrounds.us/milcamps/49-georgia/89-eagle-hammock-rv-park

Wonder if that is VDO??? If so: http://www.usa.vdo.com/generator/www/us/en/vdo/main/home/home_en.html

Sam, A slight clarification. The dobber nests, would, as you say be in the combustion chamber/heat exchanger section of the furnace. In other words the part of the furnace system accessible to and only to the outside of the coach. The sail switch is in a totally different air flow area/fan area where inside air is forced through the "inside part" of the furnace and back into the coach. There is absolutely no connection between the two areas-- if there were you would have combustion gasses getting into the coach. I have never seen dobber nests in the "inside part" of a furnace. I there are, they have to enter and leave through the interior of the coach. It is quite possible that the dobber nests degraded furnace performance at one of several key areas that would account for your symptoms. Burner/ gas jets obstructed so thermocouple would not get hot enough to keep the furnace lit. Thermocouple itself "insulated" by dobber nest, etc. Brett

I go back to each of my posts on this thread-- have you verified with a carpenter's level that the leveling system is properly calibrate-- that it is not twisting the chassis because it is improperly calibrated? Most leveling systems rely on some type of bubble level as a sensor. If it has been hit, mis adjusted, etc, it can easily MIS-level a coach. Adjustment is often as simple as using a screwdriver to position the sensor mounting feet.

Since the furnace ignites, then quits, you can (at least temporarily) rule out low battery voltage, bad sail switch, etc. First place I would start is to test propane pressure with a manometer. It is not unusual for the heavier hydrocarbon contaminants in propane to clog a regulator and the colder the temperature, the more that light viscosity grease-like substance thickens and can reduce gas pressure. If you don't have a manometer, make one OR just replace the propane regulator-- under $25. Be sure to get the correct one-- there are two styles. The vent (quarter sized screen part) MUST, repeat MUST point down. So, if the regulator is installed horizontally , the vent will be perpendicular to the regulator's long axis. If installed vertically, the vent will be in line with the long axis of the regulator.

JT, Did you have EQUAL or other "in tire" balancing product used? If so, they do require a special valve so the product does not clog the valve and lead to leaks. In any case if you are near where they were installed, go by the dealer and have them address the issue. And, if on the road find a truck/HD tire store that handles the same brand tire. Brett

Yes, turning off or disconnecting the converter accomplishes the same thing. It means the alternator and converter are not "competing".

And ours is removed from inside the coach/back of the light receptacle. So, advice on what works on OUR coach may do damage to your coach. Brett

Oldmarine, Is this the CG: http://www.yellowstoneholiday.com/ ?

Be sure your electrician knows that the 30 amp service you are having installed is 30 amp 120 VAC, NOT 30 amp 240 VAC. Said another way, there is ONE hot, a neutral and a ground. As far as whether to go with an inverter/charger instead of just a smart charger really depends on your needs. Some people wouldn't go without an inverter, others, like myself don't have one (other than a small one to run the TV or computer). As I posted earlier, depends on how much/many 120 VAC low amperage appliances (i.e. not roof A/C's, etc) you desire to run while not on shore power, your coach's ability to handle the extra weight of a large enough battery bank to achieve this and your determination of the break-even between these costs and that of running your generator a few more hours. Brett