wolfe10

What is the exhaust brake "pre-select gear" (left or only window in Allison shift pad) when you turn on the exhaust brake? When you step on the throttle, does it stay with that gear indicated OR does it go back to "6"? Same problem if you turn off the exhaust brake switch?

Link to information on rear trailing arm IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE-- You need to VERIFY that you have the new/strong style! https://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/?tab=comments#comment-2686

Two factors: Secure it from moving AND since propane is heavier than air, code calls for it to be in a compartment with vent below or in an open compartment.

vameyprez, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what vehicle you will be transporting it in: motorhome, trailer, truck, other. The more specific the detail the better the answers.

Sure, a bad connection, either because of dirty or corroded prongs on your cord OR the outlet itself (at least as likely) could cause your symptoms.

Another option (one I exercised) is to slide it out onto a sheet of plywood on top of a rug (to protect the floor) and dismantle it right there. No problem either taking it apart or in then removing the smaller pieces.

Loneliest Road In America-- one of our favorites!

Try rocking it a little back and forth to break the seal between the rubber (that expands/contracts via turning the handle). Worse case is to get a new top gasket (not expensive) and loosen/remove the two banjo fitting bolts to remove the lid. If there is anything dirty above the reservoir, tape a trash bag over it to keep any dirt from falling into the reservoir.

Alan, Verify that the "salesman switch" by the door is ON.

We still need to provide "how to test" info. Since I have not had a turbo failure in more than half a million DP miles, I have no first hand information. But am sure someone else can give the "step by step" for testing. Thanks.

To move forward with this thread, we really need some FACTS from the OP. Not sure our speculation is of much value. cagauthier@juno.com we look forward to hearing from you.

BTW, same thing for aluminum wheels on "regular" vehicles. I had tires balanced and rotated recently on our family car. Torqued the lug nuts (aluminum wheels) myself with Snap-on torque wrench before leaving the shop parking lot. Yesterday, re-checked torque-- same torque wrench, same setting. Most were slightly (1/16 revolution or less) loose. DONE.

cagauthier@juno.com, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sorry for your loss. Was the cause of the fire determined? Matching toad braking system requires knowing what MOTORHOME and what TOAD you are considering. Also, whether you change toads often, or you will keep your toad for years. There is no "one system is best for all".

wkass28, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Steel or aluminum wheel?

Do an internet search for "Fuel Polishing". The very high volume/pressure of the pump really stirs up any contaminants. Picture a bucked of water with mud at the bottom. Now, use a hose nozzle to "blast" the bottom of the bucket. And a high volume pump to remove and filter it many times. Yes, the fuel takes many passes through the pump/external filter to get the whole system clean. First hand experience in the marine industry (diesel boats have the same "storage issues" as some motorhomes) says it does work.

Herman, It is known as FUEL POLISHING and is very common in the marine industry. Volume and speed are high enough that it does a pretty effective job of stirring up any gunk on the bottom of the tank. And the filter(s) in the machine remove it. I know Keith Risch at MOT in Nacogdoches has the equipment and those with fuel contamination issues have reported being shocked at what fuel polishing removes from the tank. And, with the Foretravels, you can look down into the tank with a strong flashlight to verify that "all is well".

Assume you have a Suburban water heater, as Atwood water heaters only use nylon drain plugs.

"Bad Fuel Tank" Would sure want to know what is wrong: Bad fuel (thought that was already addressed) Bad fuel pickup in the tank. Bad fuel hose at tank allowing air into the line. Other.

Be aware that on start up, particularly when cold there are two large draws: Starter Intake manifold heater-- it also takes a lot of amps.

The other driveline question is which transmission. Transmissions also have weight limits, particularly GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating). Big difference between an Allison 2000 and 3000 series.

Excellent trouble-shooting, Mark. Keep us posted if anything changes.

Excellent news-- far better than a serious mechanical issue. Guess the stone is now in "TIME OUT".

Yup, lubing the PacBrake is a routine maintenance item: https://pacbrake.com/product/c18037-superlube/

Your coach, including starter are all 12 VDC-- no 24 VDC. You already have a battery parallel/boost switch to allow house bank to augment chassis battery for starting the engine. Yes, you could also add a remote start switch, but very few have done this or found a need to do so.

Start by turning OFF and back ON the on-generator breakers. Please tell us what generator you have for more in-depth advice.