wolfe10

Yup, what geographic area and what specific interests?

Thanks, Joe. Appreciated-- and will be particularly appreciated by those with questions about the Winnebago electrical system.

If the hydraulic motor is running, should be very easy to walk around and locate it-- lots of noise.

Turn the tire OVER. That is not the complete DOT code. The complete DOT number with date code (last 4-- usually in a slightly different molded area since it is changed weekly) is only on ONE sidewall.

Was asked in a PM how to test the ignition solenoid. Two large lugs: one from chassis battery reads chassis battery voltage all the time. The other large lug has that same voltage only when the signal terminal is supplied with 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch. Either one or two small terminals. If one, it is the positive from ignition switch= signal terminal. If two, the other is ground. Ground on the solenoids with one terminal is provided by contact with the metal body. SO, to test: If both large terminals do not have chassis battery voltage with ignition on, check for voltage at the signal terminal. If there is 12+ VDC there, the solenoid is bad. If no power to the signal terminal, either ignition switch or wiring is bad. Easy test-- use a small gauge jumper wire from the large chassis battery-side lug to the positive/signal terminal. If no click and power to the other large lug, solenoid is bad. Brett

Assume this is on a Freightliner chassis. Have you/he called Freightliner (Gaffney) for troubleshooting help/wiring diagrams? Freightliner 800 385-4357 need VIN.

First question-- does anything that normally only works with the ignition on work: Allison shift pad illuminate? Dash HVAC fan work? If not, first suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. Easy to test. If he needs instructions on testing with either voltmeter (better) or test light, let us know.

Be aware that the more the shine (finer the final grit used to polish) the more easily it will show new scratches. Matte finish is the most forgiving. Certainly personal preference-- as with most things-- trade-offs.

What you use depends on what type of surface you desire. If matte finish, medium 3M scotch pads. A little shinier, rubbing compound. Gloss, polishing compound. And, each of those are the "finishing" product. You can start with wet dry sandpaper used wet to remove scratches. If lots of very small scratches, 1000 grit is a good choice. If deeper scratches, start with courser grit and work finer.

DHindson, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As I am sure you know, refrigerator operation depends on 12+ VDC to the refrigerator. Since it operates on 120 VAC, I would ASSUME that you do have 12+ VDC to the refrigerator PC board. May take two people to do this, but someone needs to open the outside refrigerator access door while someone else turn on the refrigerator to propane. Assume propane tank vapor port is open (if stove works, you are good). How far into the "run on propane" do you get: Do you hear the clicking of the IGNITOR? Do you feel the gas valve "click" to allow propane to flow? Does the flame light-- if so, for how long?

Have you confirmed the readings at the CG pedestal I posted above (ONLY IF YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 240 VAC)? That is the first step in diagnosis.

With a ONE window Allison shift pad, the gear indicated is the "pre-select gear" (the gear toward which it will shift when it will not over-speed the engine). With a TWO window Allison shift pad, the left window is as above, the right window the actual gear you are in. This will tell us a lot as to whether there is a mis-communication in the electrical signal to the exhaust brake.

The ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch is usually a metal or plastic rectangular box with lid held on by screws. There will be 3 large cables into it: Shore power IN, Generator IN and OUT to coach main 120 VAC breaker box. Not aware of any OE ATS's that "detect" anything--- they either pass through power from shore or generator. Please tell us exactly what device you are referring to. And, have you verified that the outlet is, indeed a proper 50 amp outlet: Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center round or center straight= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC

What is the exhaust brake "pre-select gear" (left or only window in Allison shift pad) when you turn on the exhaust brake? When you step on the throttle, does it stay with that gear indicated OR does it go back to "6"? Same problem if you turn off the exhaust brake switch?

Link to information on rear trailing arm IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE-- You need to VERIFY that you have the new/strong style! https://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/?tab=comments#comment-2686

Two factors: Secure it from moving AND since propane is heavier than air, code calls for it to be in a compartment with vent below or in an open compartment.

vameyprez, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what vehicle you will be transporting it in: motorhome, trailer, truck, other. The more specific the detail the better the answers.

Sure, a bad connection, either because of dirty or corroded prongs on your cord OR the outlet itself (at least as likely) could cause your symptoms.

Another option (one I exercised) is to slide it out onto a sheet of plywood on top of a rug (to protect the floor) and dismantle it right there. No problem either taking it apart or in then removing the smaller pieces.

Loneliest Road In America-- one of our favorites!

Try rocking it a little back and forth to break the seal between the rubber (that expands/contracts via turning the handle). Worse case is to get a new top gasket (not expensive) and loosen/remove the two banjo fitting bolts to remove the lid. If there is anything dirty above the reservoir, tape a trash bag over it to keep any dirt from falling into the reservoir.

Alan, Verify that the "salesman switch" by the door is ON.

We still need to provide "how to test" info. Since I have not had a turbo failure in more than half a million DP miles, I have no first hand information. But am sure someone else can give the "step by step" for testing. Thanks.

To move forward with this thread, we really need some FACTS from the OP. Not sure our speculation is of much value. cagauthier@juno.com we look forward to hearing from you.

BTW, same thing for aluminum wheels on "regular" vehicles. I had tires balanced and rotated recently on our family car. Torqued the lug nuts (aluminum wheels) myself with Snap-on torque wrench before leaving the shop parking lot. Yesterday, re-checked torque-- same torque wrench, same setting. Most were slightly (1/16 revolution or less) loose. DONE.