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Each coach maker has different adjustments available for their slides. So answers of what works on some other coach may not apply to yours and, worse, may be detrimental to your coach. Best advice is to call your coach maker and ask them. Another alternative is to ask on a Forum specific to your coach. Brett

kikeehn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, it is quite common to run the generator while traveling, particularly if the temperature is high enough to require more than the dash A/C to keep you comfortable. This is true whether the generator is fueled by propane, gasoline or diesel. Very few people even give this a second thought. Is it an additional risk? Sure, but, the vast majority of us conclude it is a very small risk and do it. Heck, driving, just by itself is more of a risk than sitting at home-- again we do it. And if the generator is running to power other things (such as roof A/C) then running the refrigerator on generator produced 120 VAC makes sense. It would not make sense to run that large additional motor (the generator) JUST to run the refrigerator, however. If you do this and have the ability to turn off your converter while running the generator while driving, do it. It "confuse"s many alternators to have competing sources charging the batteries. All the equipment discussed in this thread was designed to be used while driving as well as while parked. But, risk/reward is each person's decision.

Jamie, The Parallax 7400 Series Converter is indeed an obsolete converter. It was made in 30-65 amp configurations. I would not invest in new, expensive batteries without updating this to a smart charger or inverter/charger. Said another way, replacing it would be a wise investment. I can't give advice on whether you should spend the money on an inverter or inverter/charger. Several factors to make a considered decision: How much of the time do you want to be able to run low amp 120 VAC appliances from the batteries (i.e. delay need to run the generator which will need to be run to recharge the batteries)? How large is your battery bank (i.e. how large an inverter could it reasonably support). While quite a few do have an inverter, many don't or have only a small one to run just a TV, etc. And how much money do you want to spend and how much weight (extra batteries, inverter,etc) on this. We don't even know if you have a gas coach that is near its weight capacity or a DP with 2,000 pounds of reserve weight capacity. And, if you can have 120 VAC shore power where you store the coach, DO IT. Particularly after you get a smart charger (or decide to go with an inverter/charger) you can leave the coach plugged in 24/7 to maintain the batteries. With your present converter, that would likely overcharge the batteries if left plugged in 24/7. A reasonable answer, using your present converter, is to go to a Home Depot, etc and get a HD/20 amp timer. Set it to run the converter 1-2 hours a day-- enough to keep the batteries up, but not overcharge them. You will also have to determine if your coach is wired to charge the chassis battery when plugged in. Many coaches don't. So you will need to add a Trick L Start or Echo charger to keep up that battery bank. Yes, independent of the monetary consideration, my personal opinion ( and what we have in our coach) are Lifeline AGM house batteries and Optima starting batteries.

Carl, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you don't get an answer here from someone who has experienced this problem, on Monday, call Cummins 800 343-7357. Have your engine serial number handy. Brett

Jamie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. 1) Chassis battery : These are your start batteries. Best (OE equipment on Foretravel, etc) are 12 VDC Optima Sprial batteries wired in parallel. Largest that will fit. If not Optimas, starting battery are used vs deep cycle batteries. 2) Alternator: Other than verifying that it is charging, I wouldn't spend money on this. 3) Batteries for the coach: OK, these are referred to as house batteries. Best batteries are AGM's such as http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/ What size and number really depends on two things-- how much room you have and how much dry camping you do where you will be living off the batteries to power 12 VDC appliances and use of the inverter to power 120 VAC appliances off the batteries between running the generator to power the converter, charger or inverter/charger to recharge the batteries. Certainly room and added weight are considerations as well as cost. 4) Inverter: Or inverter/charger-- really depends on largest load you plan to run on the inverter and whether the appliances will run on MSW (modified sine wave) or require a sine wave inverter. The larger the inverter/charger, generally the higher the amp output of the charger section. If your coach already has one, let us know what you have. 5) Shore line: Not sure of the question here. Is your coach 30 amp or 50 amp shore power? 6) Generator: Again, not sure of the question-- what generator do you have and what is the question. 7) Solar trickle charger: The need for a solar powered trickle charger depends on whether you have shore power available where you store the coach. Let us know that one and we can advise. 8) Kill switches at key points in the system: Again, depends on what means you have of keeping the batteries charged while in storage. Let us know the answer to whether you have shore power where you store it and we can better address your particular situation. Brett

This is the company who makes the plates and offers a number of mounting brackets: http://www.kileymold.com/attachment_plates.htm

Yes, bforrest, there will be a fuse. Call Winnebago for its location if you don't have a wiring diagram. Have you checked your dash area 12 VDC fuse box? On many coaches, it is in the basement forward of the left front tire. Brett

Chuck, My response in red. Brett

Larry, No, engine coolant and exhaust temperatures are VERY different. Exhaust temperatures can be over 1,000 degrees F under high throttle operation. Brett

Yes, that will get you close. Even better, add a little more than that and recheck in the morning before driving.

No simple answer. Some older absorption refrigerators were 3 way (propane, 120 VAC and 12 VDC) The 12 VDC heating element in these was lower wattage than the 120 VAC element or the heat produced by the propane flame, so it was considered more for "maintaining" the cold. Said another way it was not as effective as either 120 VAC or propane. Most newer refrigerators are 2 way (propane and 120 VAC). Yes, all except the REALLY old ones also need a source of 12 VDC to run the PC board-- irrespective of "heat source". Can you run a 2 way refrigerator on electricity while driving? Maybe. If you have enough alternator capacity to supply your vehicle needs with enough left over to power an inverter to run the refrigerator, then the answer is YES. Is this less efficient than running on propane-- YES. Compare producing the same BTU's of heat in the refrigerator: With propane, you burn a small flame. When on 120 VAC from the engine, you loose efficiency at each of these steps: Turning diesel into engine RPM. Loading the alternator harder to produce more electricity. Converting 12 VDC to 120 VAC in the inverter. Converting 120 VAC into heat. One other comment on using propane while driving or any other time. A properly maintained propane system and appliances are safer than ones that are not maintained (about the same holds true for most systems-- no big surprise!). Brett

Certainly, part of that statement is true. Running with LP on while driving is NOT illegal in any state. But it is (and should be) illegal in high-danger areas. These include: while refueling, in some tunnels and on ferries. BTW if you are at the RV island even with a diesel rig, you should (and legally are obligated to) TURN OFF ALL PROPANE POWERED APPLIANCES AT THE SWITCH. Turning off the propane at the tank/solenoid does NOT meet the standards, as having a furnace, water heater or refrigerator igniter start sparking (even with the propane turned off), could ignite a gasoline spill from someone else's rig. These basic safety precautions all make sense, but do not have anything to do with the use of propane powered appliances while driving. Brett

Cliff, There are no differences in Caterpillar or Cummins engines coolant requirements/both have the same mil specs for coolant requirements. Also, Caterpillar ELC or Fleetguard equivalent have the same characteristics-- OAT-based coolant with no need to check or add SCA. BTW, neither Caterpillar nor Cummins "require" an SCA type coolant. The correct statement is: Low silicate for diesel coolant with added SCA that is routinely tested and SCA level replenished" is an acceptable coolant. The new generation OAT-based coolants are also approved and both Caterpillar and Cummins (Fleetguard)-- both sell it. The advantage of the OAT-based coolants is that there is no need to ever test or add SCA and instead of the common 3 year coolant life, at least Caterpillar ELC (and likely true for Fleetguard product as well) have a 6 year life WITH NO MAINTENANCE in an RV application. Even in OTR trucks they have a 6 year life, with an added extender after 3 years/300,000 miles. Could you use a Cummins coolant in a Caterpillar or Caterpillar coolant in a Cummins-- I guess so, but my recommendation would be to use the OAT-based coolant marketed by YOUR engine manufacturer. That way, if you ever have it in for engine service, they will have the correct coolant. Here is an article I wrote a on the "proper" process to switch from "standard low silicate for diesel coolant with SCA" to Caterpillar ELC. Again, the steps for a Cummins would be the same: Cooling System 101 I just changed out my coolant and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. To my knowledge all RV manufacturers use a “low silicate coolant for diesels” with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use. When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant is installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to an Extended Life Coolant and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech. First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity. Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source. Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume. If going back with a coolant that requires additional SCA, purchase that as well. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%). Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there. I know Caterpillar recommends thermostat (they call them regulators) every 3 years. Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain ****. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don’t get dirty work well. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the effluent color is clear. At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8” to ¾” lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water. If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water. Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn’t matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture. This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter. Check belts while you are in there. Brett

Evarney, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As long as those levelers in the link are on the coach frame itself, no problem. Do not put them on a frame extension or other location that was not designed to support the weight of the coach. And, as you have discovered, you can get pretty close to level using leveling boards. That always puts less stress on any jack system. An option for the front is to use a small inexpensive hydraulic bottle jack on each side of the front frame. And, as with any leveling/jack system, NEVER lift the rear wheels off the ground-- they are your parking brake. Lift them and the coach rolls! Brett

Like Bill, we drive with the refrigerator on propane 100% of the time. Indeed the systems (both propane system and refrigerator) were designed to be operated while driving. Is there any danger-- sure. Any time you have a flammable, there is some danger. Just as there is with gasoline. Most will conclude that the risk is minimal and within their "acceptable range"-- that is your choice. I would suggest, particularly in the summer, that your risk of food poisoning if the refrigerator is left off all day while you drive is a LOT more of a danger to you and your family than leaving the refrigerator on and running on propane. As with many decisions, you need to weigh the risks/rewards. Brett

Alyce38, You will need to give us a lot more information for us to be of assistance. Since you say it should put out 230 VAC, clearly it is not a Honda 1000 as is being discussed here. What generator model? Serial number if you have it? How many hours on it? Other than the motor overhaul, what has been done to it?

Call Allison AND your chassis maker with your transmission serial number and chassis serial number to verify what fluid you have in your transmission now. If you have Dexron and want to convert to Transynd (which most of us have done) there are several methods-- different, but likely all mechanically acceptable. Allison's recommended method is to drain fluid, change filter(s) and fill with Transynd. Next service interval is the same as if it were 100% Dexron. At the second filter/fluid change, go to the Transynd change interval. Tom's suggestion of back to back fluid and one filter change will certainly work, but will be a lot higher in initial cost. As long as there is zero chance of dirt getting in the lines when disconnected, I see no reason that changing fluid and filter, then starting the engine with the return line from the transmission cooler off at the transmission until clean new fluid comes out would not work. Allison does not recommend this however (likely because of potential of dirt getting into the transmission. Brett

Bill, Are you starting the script for a new sit-com? Sounds like a winner. Brett

Judy and Jerry, Actually the cooling unit cools the freezer section first, then "remaining BTU's" remove heat from the refrigerator. So, when total cooling ability is limited (by anything or combination of things), it is the refrigerator that shows the first sign of failure/inability to maintain the proper temperature. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to consult Freightliner (Gaffney) since they designed and built the chassis: 800 385-4357 have your chassis VIN handy. But, if you have been in road conditions severe enough to snap a spring, an alignment might be a very good idea even if new springs do not change front suspension geometry.

Not a good idea. That would use a LOT of electricity (same as leaving a 1500 space heater on 24/7) for no gain. Turn in on an hour to several house before starting the engine (time depends on ambient temperature). Brett

A delightful story. We often overnight in Dumas when we drive from S Texas to Angel Fire, NM. What is the name of the hamburger joint there-- will have to put that on the list? Brett

My Caterpillar 3116 (the predecessor to the 3126) came with a Caterpillar block heater. It is located in the water jacket/side of block just below the turbo. The element went out, so I just replaced it. Note, this is one of the two locations for a block heater on the 3126, per Hotstart's website. Here is the process: I got a Hotstart FP101-001 http://www.hotstart.com/home/products/in-block-heaters/. It replaces the freeze plug/old block heater. They recommended Loctite 640 as a sealant. Took a little research to find the Loctite 640. Drain coolant. Mine was still in good shape (Caterpillar ELC), so I was careful to catch it and keep it clean. Replaced the coolant filter (zero unit SCA filter, as my coolant is ELC which does not use SCA). Remove old block heater. Dry that area of the block (paper towels) Clean block wall/opening with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper so the new block heater and Loctite would have a good clean mounting surface. With a socket as a driver, used a hammer to drive the new block heater into place (didn't require any heavy pounding-- just make sure it is square). Let Loctite set up overnight (set up time depends on ambient temperature-- complete information on their website: http://www.all-spec.com/downloads/loctite/64031_120209s.pdf Refill cooling system. On most cooling systems, you must "burp" the air from the engine thermostat housing. Some have a chassis manufacturer run line that does this automatically. On mine, I just loosen the coolant line from the thermostat housing to the air compressor until coolant starts coming out. Put on a Willie Nelson CD and sing along with... "Back On The Road Again". Brett

Herman, There are some additives that absorb water such as HEET, but am not aware of any that are approved by diesel manufactures. Alcohol and other water-absorbing chemicals are hard in the close tolerances in diesel injectors. If anyone finds one that has Caterpillar or Cummins approval, I would appreciate that info being posted.

The Atwood water heater owners manual should show the location of the 120 VAC electric heating element. Most are on the "inside" side of the water heater, the side opposite the outside wall. If this is it's location, access to that area will dictate whether you can replace the element with the water heater in place or have to remove it. Brett