wolfe10

One of the prime causes of fan noise is unbalance and/or interference caused by mud dobbers setting up housekeeping on the fan blades. In the off season, I use a cheap piece of fine nylon screen over the furnace intake/exhaust. I just open the door and trap the screen in the door as I close it. Obviously, don't start the furnace with the nylon screen in place! Another cause is that the fans (two-- one for combustion air and the other for hot air circulation in the coach) may have come loose on the shaft. Sometimes as easy as just tightening the set screw. Also, the fan motor has BUSHINGS, not bearings. These can be oiled (I use sewing machine oil). But there is a lot of labor involved in removing it to lube. So, if you are paying for labor, probably better to just replace the fan motor.

Hankso, I think you are letting your particular terms get in the way of what we are both agreeing on. If you like, let's continue this conversation as Private Messages-- not sure we are adding anything to the general group knowledge here. Go back to my first post (or anyone of them for that matter). We BOTH agree that a 50 amp has two hots, neutral and ground-- call them what you want. And with the two hots reading 240 between them, indeed the neutral will only carry the DIFFERENCE in load on L1 vs L2. Terms may be different than the typical house service, but the electrical set up is virtually the same.

OK, for those who want a "blow by blow" description of a 50 amp RV with 120 VAC output generator. The 50 amp shore power is wired/works as discussed above. EXCEPT, insert an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) between the shore power cord inlet to the RV and the 120 VAC RV breaker box. Most but not all ATS's are wires so that in the absence of power from the generator, the ATS connects the two hots and neutral of the 50 amp shore power to the 120 VAC RV breaker box. Ground is always connected. If 30 amp shore power, in the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter, the single hot of the shore power end connects to both hots in the male (coach) end of the 50 amp (4 prong) shore power cord. When the 120 VAC generator starts, most ATS's are wired so that it takes precedence over shore power. Said another way, the ATS ONLY allows one source of 120 VAC. If the generator is started, most coaches switch the full load from shore to generator. Yes, it could be wired the other way, but NEVER are both shore power and generator allowed to provide power to an RV (no way to synchronize frequency). With a 120 VAC generator, it works exactly the same as the 30 amp male to 50 amp female-- the single hot from the generator connects to both hot leads on the ATS generator "IN" side. Really pretty simple. Been working for decades like that. Brett

Service Information Document ID: 2726426 #PIP4973: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 - (Oct 13, 2011) Subject: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 Models: 2011-2012 Buick Enclave, LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011-2012 Cadillac SRX 2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze, Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only), Sonic 2011-2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain with a 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission Dinghy towing quick reference for 6T70/75 and 6T30/40/45 for 2011 and 2012 Recommendation/Instructions: 2011-2012 Buick LaCrosse, Enclave 2011-2012 Cadillac SRX 2011-2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2011-2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain With automatic transmission 6T70/75 (RPOs MH2, MH4, MH6, MY9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual directions for proper instructions. 2011-2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Malibu 2012 Chevrolet Sonic 1.8 liter only 2011-2012 GMC Terrain With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MH7, MH8, MH9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual directions for proper instructions. These following vehicles are NOT dinghy towable. 2011-2012 Buick LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only), Sonic 1.4 liter only With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MHH, MH7, MH8, MH9) are NOT dinghy towable and could cause damage to your vehicle’s transmission if towed in this manner. These repairs would not be covered under the vehicles powertrain warranty. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

Hanko, The 120 VAC generator provides power to both sides of the 50 amp coach breaker box just exactly as does the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter when using 30 amp shore power. Said another way, the single 120 VAC hot it tied to BOTH hots on the 50 amp side. Brett

Roger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is very little predictability to damage done by a direct lightening strike. I have worked with this on RV's and even more on boats. Lightening does NOT follow a prescribed pathway and do predictable damage. Even when done by a true electrical professional, there is still a little "repair what we know is damaged" and then test for more damage further "downstream" in the electrical system. Few if any electrical technicians would even attempt to give a total estimate until they go through the process. It would surprise me that an insurance adjuster familiar with this kind of damage would not be aware of this.

Looking at Onan's website for 5.5kW gasoline generators :http://www.cumminsonan.com/rv/products/gasoline#tab1 I could find none that are rated for 230 VAC. All are 120 VAC. Even with larger generators, being rated at 230/240 (i.e. two hots) raises a real issue-- the voltage regulators can control voltage very well on ONE leg of the generator output. So, the other leg is either high (if load is less on the second leg than that on the regulated leg) or low (if load on that second leg is higher than that on the regulated leg). In fact there are quite a few discussions on 10kW and larger generators on the advisability of changing from the motorhome factory setup of 120 VAC to 240 which the generator is capable of putting out (again with the problem that the "second leg" far less voltage stable than the one that is regulated).

Look in the upper right corner and make sure you are signed in when this occurs. If not, sign in and see what shows as "View New Content".

Actually, the chassis maker either specs or installs the fan/fan hub. But, as Hermann says, you lose nothing by calling Cummins and verifying who installed the fan/fan hub on your engine. Call them with your engine serial number. Cummins 800 343-7357

Curious, what RV generator is rated at 5.5 KV @ 230 VAC? Or even 5.5 KW @ 230 VAC? Unusual ratings for an RV generator.

Hanko, Not sure of the difference in our explanations. Are there different ways to say the same thing-- of course. Been wiring these things for 30 years and it sounds like you have "been there and done that" too. We agree there are two hots, a neutral and a ground. A voltmeter between the two hots shows 240 VAC. A voltmeter between either hot and neutral (or either hot and ground) shows 120 VAC. Very similar to that in most residential boxes. As you say, the two hots have a common trip pin (called a duplex breaker). And indeed you DO have 100 amps @ 120 VAC. And with few exceptions, RV's are wired with appliances using only one hot, the neutral and ground (just like the lights, outlets, etc in your stick home). Could you have a 240 VAC appliance-- yes, just as in your stick house. In fact, I just pulled a new 40 amp service to a new stove in the house. 4 wire duplex 40 amp breaker, etc. Looking at the 50 amp RV outlet: Both outer straights are the HOTS (generally one BLACK and one RED). Center straight is the NEUTRAL (WHITE). Center round is the GROUND (GREEN). Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center straight= 120 VAC Either outer straight to center round= 120 VAC Center straight to center round- 0 VAC

Are you talking about RVIA: http://www.rvia.org/ ? This has to do with manufacturing standards and is a voluntary organization to which most RV manufacturers belong. Not aware of any tie to the used market or governmental ties. Member manufacturers affix a small oval emblem stating that their coach meets the standards of the RVIA.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I assume you are talking about your propane-fired heater. If so, it is easy to find from the outside. Look for an access door cut into the side of the coach, as the propane heater must have air coming from the exterior to support combustion and the exhaust from combustion exiting as well. The only other outside access doors will be for water heater and refrigerator. Brett

Excellent advice, Tim. Use a digital voltmeter (starting under $10 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) and check voltage at the battery and also at each appliance that is not properly functioning. Fully charged 12 volt battery at rest= 12.7 VDC. 50% discharged= 12.2 VDC. If below 50% recharge the battery before continuing with your troubleshooting.

James, Good advice, BUT, be sure to use safety stands before crawling under and disconnecting or working on any part of the air suspension, particularly a ride height valve. As you suggest, it should lower the coach-- said another way, drop the coach on top of you!

Joe, Two possibilities: Bad batteries-- even if relatively new. If wet cell batteries, buy a battery hydrometer (under $10) from any auto parts house. Check battery SG (Specific Gravity) with the batteries fully charged. Other possibility is a big load, even when you think everything is off. Use/borrow/rent an ammeter and check the positive battery cable for draw when you think everything is turned off. And, not sure of your answer to my "how are the batteries arranged". Is the 12 VDC the chassis battery and the two 6 VDC wired IN SERIES the house battery bank? Brett

Joe, Are the 12 VDC and two 6 VDC batteries the chassis and house batteries respectively? Odd to combine 12 and 6 VDC in the same bank. You either have bad batteries or a pretty heavy draw. Did you check voltage at the batteries? What was it? Brett

Jim, Let's start with the facts first: To determine the correct PSI for your tires, go to your tire manufacturer's Inflation Table for your tire. Look up the PSI using the heavier wheel position on each axle if you have it, total axle weight if you don't. That will tell you the MINIMUM PSI for that weight. Most of us add 5 PSI to that minimum so a few degrees drop in ambient temperature, filling with fuel and/or water, the wife's BIG Walmart shopping trip, etc does not put us under inflated. And, if all you have is total axle weights, you might add another 5 PSI to account for left/right weight imbalance. Opinion: I have my front tires checked for run-out ON THE COACH and brought to under .035". Then spin balanced ON THE COACH. Rears balanced off the coach is fine-- not nearly as critical, nor can they be balanced on the coach. Let us know where you are/are buying and perhaps we can suggest a place that can actually check run-out and balance on the coach. Brett

Thanks for the update. Please let us know what they find.

spooky, Here is the response I got when I forwarded your post to the FMCA Staff: "Michelin simply does not show all the prices for the FMCA program. I think he would have to follow the program instructions -- call the dealer, give them his FMCA membership info and get an estimate."

http://www.fmca.com/...elin-prices.pdf

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We will need a little more information to be able to give you good advice. What steps have you gone through to conclude that the refrigerator doesn't work: 1. Do you have 12 VDC to the refrigerator? Even when running on 120 VAC, it needs 12 VDC to run the PC board. 2. How long did you let it run? Most take 24 hours to achieve normal freezer/refrigerator temperatures. 3. Any sign of a leak-- ammonia smell, yellow powder? If so, do NOT run it! 4. Have you tried it on propane as well as 120 VAC? As far as repair or replace, it depends on several factors: 1. What is wrong with it? Most expensive is the cooling unit itself. 2. How old is it-- different advice if this is 2 years old or 12 years old? Brett

YES.

There are both air and electronic throttles used on these applications. Check with your chassis maker to determine what you have and how to properly troubleshoot it. One other comment. No diesel engine manufacturer recommends starting an engine UNLESS you are able to drive it a minimum of 25 highway miles. Said another way, unless you can get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperatures for long enough to rid the crankcase of moisture, you are doing more harm than good. No way for a diesel to get the oil to operating temperatures except under a load. It could idle for hours and never achieve working temperatures. Brett

Bill's advice is right on. In many cases, you can dismount the pump and turn it 180 degrees. Then use a half loop of flex hose from old rigid pipe to pump on both inlet and outlet. Done many of these modifications. The rigid pipe acts as a conduit for transmitting pump vibration to the rest of the coach. Brett