wolfe10

Ron, What chassis, the Ford V10 6.8l is a high RPM engine compared with the GM V8 8.1l? What transmission, Ford 4 speed, 5 speed, GM 4 speed, Allison 5 speed? Brett

Let me caution that with a brand new vehicle, your first stop and ultimate authority would be your local Ford dealer. While we can offer seat of the pants advice that may indeed work out, your local dealer is a better resource. Either from their knowledge or from their contact with a technical rep at Ford (who you as a customer can not access) they are ultimately the ones who have to stand behind your new vehicle (or tell you that the modification you made destroyed XXX and it will cost $$$$$ to fit-- NOT covered by warranty).

Herman, Remember the time stamp on a post is the time in YOUR time zone. The poster may be on the west coast.

You might contact Henderson and ask them for shop recommendations in your area.

303 Aerospace http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/1/303-aerospace-protectant.cfm is the only product I am aware of that is good for vinyl decals. Brett

No question, improper installation is a common issue with RV refrigerators and often leads to sub-par performance. Always a good idea to pull up your refrigerator's installation manual and VERIFY that installation clearances ARE correct.

Yup, just got back from doing some work on the sailboat. If you don't already have a copy, here is an air brake system check: Air Brake System Pre-trip Check 1. Be on reasonably level ground. Block wheels so the coach can not move even with the parking brake off. 2. Start engine and run until full air pressure is reached. Listen for the dryer to purge (about 120 PSI). 3. Shut off the engine. 4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button (make sure you don't roll, and do NOT apply the brake pedal). 5. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose more than 2 PSI per minute. 6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF). 7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose any more than 3 PSI per minute. 8. With the engine off, ignition on and parking brake off, rapidly pump the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30 PSI. 9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure again. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at “cruising RPM”. It should be less than 45 seconds.

Is that rate of leakage acceptable per DOT and industry standards-- yes. Is it possible with soap and water and small brush or "kiddie bubble" solution that you could find a small leak-- yes. If you go under the coach to look for the problem, be sure to use safety stands.

Clarance, What were the details supporting his recommendation???

First step is to verify that the leveling system is indeed leveling the coach. I would use a large carpenter's level check it. It is possible that the systems level sensor needs adjustment. Sure, it could be something more serious, but it could also be a 2 minute job with a screwdriver to adjust the sensor. Brett

John, Another possibility is that yours is uniquely installed. Might find a convenient measuring point-- say wall to outboard edge of seat mounting plate and ask others with the same coach to measure theirs. You could also call Fleetwood and discuss this and what would be involved in centering it (if it is even possible). Brett

John, Replacing the 13.5kBTU with a 15.0kBTU is not difficult at all. The roof hole is the same size for each. You can check with your coach maker to verify the amp rating of the wiring and check the 120 VAC breaker for the 13.5kBTU unit. 15.0kBTU units are made in "regular" and "energy efficient" models. The energy efficient units use less power and may require no wiring modification. But, even a regular 15kBTU may not require wiring upgrade-- that you will need to confirm with your coach maker. Do not expect a large difference in output. Before spending money for this (other than at the time you would replace the unit anyway), I would look at insulating the windshield (a large source of heat, particularly if facing the sun), adding window awnings to keep the sun off them, etc before spending the big bucks on a new A/C when the current one is functioning properly. You can also add fans-- either 12 VDC or 120 VAC to help move air around. Brett

Congratulations on our new purchase and welcome to the Forum. Assume this is a diesel. If so, be sure that you store it with the fuel tank full to minimize condensation. Many add a BIOCIDE if storing diesel fuel more than a few months. If weather permits, it is not a bad idea to drive it once a month-- also a good "bonding" experience. But, don't start the engine unless you can drive a minimum of 25 highway miles-- far enough under load to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature.

Robert, Yes, a licensed electrician can wire a transfer switch such that you can run your home from either power company or generator. And, it is critical that only one source be used at a time, AND that there is no way for the generator to "back feed" the power company grid. Back feeding can easily kill a lineman working on repairing the grid. Now, using two different generators at the same time is a lot more complex. You would need to split your loads into two sub-panels with each generator supplying only those circuits on its sub-panel. Said another way, there is no way that the HZ of two generators (there are exceptions, but not the units you have) can be synchronized. So in essence each generator would supply a unique set of circuits. This means not only separating the hots, but also the neutrals as you divide the loads into the two sub-panels. Not sure what you mean by a 50 and 30 amp 5.5KW generator. 5.5 KW= 45.8 amps @ 120 VAC. And, that will be a single hot (i.e. not 120/240 like a 50 amp RV outlet). 240 VAC generators are very rare, as the voltage regulator can regulate ONE leg/hot. If the other leg/hot has a substantially different load, it's voltage will be substantially different-- NOT GOOD. So most are wired as 120 VAC only. Brett

Difficult for us to give you advice-- the labor to replace a tank can vary widely. Some are an easy drop out/in, others require virtually rebuilding the coach. First call I would make is to your coach maker for their input on labor involved in replacing the tank on your particular model coach.

Might try giving the CG a call: (717) 534-8999.

Yes, it is the chassis/coach maker's decision on whether the exhaust brake activates the brake lights, so PacBrake would not necessarily know.

Add Zip Dee to your list of high-end awning manufacturers: http://www.zipdeeinc.com/

Good advice-- indeed contact the brake controller manufacturer and either PacBrake or more likely, your coach chassis manufacturer (since the chassis maker installed and did the wiring for the PacBrake, foot brake and brake light wiring). Ideally, you want the trailer brake controller activated ONLY when the service brake/brake pedal is used, NOT when just the exhaust brake is on. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are quite a number of ways your trailer brakes could be activated including both surge and electric control from the coach. With that heavy a trailer (please verify that it is within the capacity of your coach-- if you need details on this, please ask) it should probably be set up on a separate brake controller. You sure don't want it to be on every time you use the exhaust brake.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The answer is MAYBE. First question is what is the amp draw of each A/C, particularly the two on one "hot"? Big difference between new-generation efficient 13,5 K BTU units and inefficient 15K BTU units. What other 120 VAC items will be running at the same time, particularly on the hot supplying the two A/C's? On 50 amp shore power, you have TWO 50 amp hots. As long as your draw from each is under 50 amps total, yes you can. BUT, the wiring in many CG's is old/small enough that as you approach that 50 amp draw the voltage drops quite a bit. As voltage drops, your A/C will consume more amps. As far as generator, you will need to determine its watt output and also how it is wired to your house system. Probably the best answer is to ask your coach maker who designed and installed your electrical system.

Robert, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no standard "kit". Each engine and each chassis is a little different. This applies to all diesels built before 1/1/07. From that date, diesel engines have a closed crankcase system, so no vent. Note: some chassis makers fit an extension when they built the chassis as this is a very well known issue. Check before buying parts. Here is how to build a CRANKCASE VENT EXTENSION: Locate the crankcase vent. It will be the only OPEN hose coming down from the engine. As an example, on a Caterpillar 3116, 3126 or C7 is is a 1" ID open hose coming down on the passenger's side of the engine. It will likely have oily residue in/on it. Determine the ID of the existing hose. You will be buying a "barb to barb" fitting to secure the existing hose to a new oil resistant hose of the same ID. Use hose clamps to secure the old and new hose to the barb to barb. The new hose should be long enough to allow it to go behind (back of coach) the fan shroud so that oil mist can not be sucked up by the fan which would materially speed the rate at which dirt is deposited on the CAC (Charge Air Cooler-- the first thing in the cooling package with the radiator behind it). The only HAVE TO is that the hose continue downhill, with no rise that could trap water (moisture is one of the normal byproducts of combustion). In sub-freezing temperatures, the water in a trap could freeze and completely block the vent-- bad news for your engine. Secure the hose with nylon zip ties, etc. Brett

Denna, Welcome to the FMCA Forum and your new lifestyle. Many of the questions you may have already been discussed. If so, you may be able to get quicker answers than posting a new question and waiting for an answer. For example, I just used the search box in the upper right of this page and put in "white streaks". Two recent discussions came up with a total of 21 responses. Can't help with the when to winterize-- we live in south Texas. If it starts getting too cold here, we head even further south. My mantra is "if an orange tree is happy, I'm happy". As far as where to post technical questions, go to the Forum homepage and read the descriptions of the various categories-- choose the one most appropriate. If there is a better place for it (i.e. if you would be more likely to get responses somewhere else) one of the moderators will move it. Brett

Not familiar at all with the Teton products, but there may be a breaker in the 12 VDC between battery and slide hydraulic pump/electric motor. There should be some protection in case of electrical failure. Brett

Chuck, Could a light-weight object such as a plastic bag be sucked up by a fan-- be it front radiator, side or rear-- SURE. Is this a big issue-- not really. On rear radiator configurations, to a much larger degree dirt is stirred up and sucked into the cooling package. Not sure I would invest in screening unless I planned to drive on a lot of dirt/gravel roads. Rocks flying up can do damage. BUT, I would shine a flashlight into the fan shroud/between fan blades IF a sudden overheating condition developed OR twice a year. Brett