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wolfe10

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Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. The air filter minder reads total restriction between the side of the coach and the location of the filter minder pickup which is between the air filter and turbo. So, a bunch of extra corrugated hose between side of coach and air filter, too small an air filter, etc will lead to high filter minder readings. The filter minder stores the maximum restriction encountered. If the intake is in the left side, the passage of an 80 MPG 18 wheeler can result in a false high reading. Brett
  2. Wendy, If you post some pictures of the hinge, it is possible one of us will recognize it or be able to come up with a suitable replacement. Here is information on how to post a photo: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2685-how-to-add-a-picture-to-fmca-blog-from-picasa-web-albums/ Brett
  3. Diesel "octane" is referred to as Cetane: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number I am not a chemical engineer, nor have I discussed needed Cetane with any of the diesel engine manufacturers to get their view on minimum acceptable Cetane for their engines. And, the recommendations may vary by engine and year model. That would be a first step if this is a subject you want to pursue. I will comment on the storage of diesel with bio-diesel content-- It is widely agreed that bio-diesel has a shorter shelf life than 100% diesel. So if you are storing your coach, yes, seek 100% diesel. This excerpt from an EPA document: http://www.nrel.gov/vehiclesandfuels/npbf/pdfs/43672.pdf: Storage Stability Although biodiesel blends have adequate storage stability for normal use, special precautions must be taken if they are to be stored for extended periods. This might occur in a snow plow or farm implement used seasonally, or in the fuel tank of a backup generator. If the fuel will be stored for more than a few months, a stability additive is recommended, and acidity should be measured monthly. Finally, biodiesel is generally more susceptible than petroleum diesel to microbial degradation. In the case of spills in the environment, this is a positive attribute because it biodegrades more rapidly. However, microbial contamination of fuel storage tanks can plug dispensers and vehicle fuel filters and cause vehicles to stall. This is not unheard of for petroleum diesel, but anecdotal evidence suggests it is a greater problem for biodiesel blends. The best way to deal with this issue (for both petroleum diesel and biodiesel) is adequate fuel storage tank housekeeping and monitoring, especially minimizing water in contact with the fuel. Water bottoms must be removed from tanks, and standing tanks should be sampled and tested for microbial contamination. Each engine manufacturer will have specs on acceptable quantities of bio-diesel. I know the Caterpillar Maintenance Seminar in Madison discussed this. The acceptable quantities of bio-diesel varied by engine and year model. Lots of opinions on this subject-- I agree with you, would like to see some factual information. Oh, and let's keep politics out of this.
  4. Yes, anytime you have metal being removed/head of screws sheared off, you need to determine the cause. The cause may or may not be critical, but it does need to be diagnosed. Brett
  5. Clearly a lot of similarities in the installation-- from two well recognized quality companies.
  6. wolfe10

    Replacing Shocks

    Yes, in direct answer to your question, Bilstein shocks are part of the Roadmaster 4 bag Ride Enhancement Kit from Source Engineering, so a company who has spend a LOT of R&D hours perfecting the 4 bag suspension recommends them: http://www.rv-chassis.com/rek.pdf But, if the trailing arm replacement has not been done, that WAY outweighs the shock issue. Here is the Source Engineering Trailing Arm link: http://www.rv-chassis.com/tra1003.html Brett
  7. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What vehicle do you want to tow? Brett
  8. Yes, I had one installed in our Ford at the Madison FMCA Convention. Just towed it 1,300 miles home. It performs as advertised. Nothing to move, attach, etc. Everything is installed out of the way and permanently in the toad. One wire to connect toad to coach for the monitor in the dash to show when the toad brake is on and the flex wire for the break-away and that's it (no "box"). You can't see or feel the unit in the toad unless you get down and look under the seat/at the back of the brake pedal. A dial on the unit allows you to "tune" toad braking. The wiring also includes a 2 amp toad battery charger when parking lights are on in the coach. We towed from Madison to south Texas without starting (or even disconnecting) the car and the toad battery was fine. If you are going to keep your toad for awhile and don't want to set up a "box brake" each time you tow, this is one of the units you should put on your list.
  9. wolfe10

    Replacing Shocks

    Sherj, I know this is off the subject, but there is a very important safety issue with the Monaco/Roadmaster 4R chassis. Have you had your trailing arms replaced with either Source or the NEW, repeat NEW Monaco Corp arms? http://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-on-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/
  10. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You could spend years seeing all the sites in those three states. Give us an idea of your route, interests and how much time you have. Also, what time of year? Brett
  11. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While you want to idle/high idle until air pressure is built before moving, the engine should not die when put in gear. Driving at low speeds/light throttle until coolant operating temperature is reached is fine. Pushing the engine hard before warmed up is not recommended. Is this symptom new, or has it always existed? No problem with clogged fuel filter(s) or air getting into the fuel system? If none of these common causes for any diesel running poorly, suggest taking it to a Cummins dealer. Brett
  12. Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Correct, you do not need a CDL. As many have posted on this thread, you do need a Class B license if the GVWR is over 26,000 pounds.
  13. Don, One of the best tests is the one you perform with a digital voltmeter with the battery installed in the coach (digital voltmeters start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc). With the battery fully charged, have someone use the key to start the coach. While cranking, check voltage at the battery and starter. If a big difference, check all connections for cleanliness and tightness. If voltage drops below 12.0 VDC at the battery while cranking with a fully charged battery, you have a bad battery, or starter. You will need an ammeter to determine which. Or a battery store who can load test your battery while applying the amp draw your starter should be drawing. If you have a battery boost/battery combine switch, use it and see if it makes a difference. Brett
  14. Brad and Kathy, No clear consensus here. Many recommend balancing all tires, others only the fronts. I personally have all tires balanced. Brett
  15. The "coolant" goes to the freezer first, then the refrigerator, so if there is inadequate cooling, it will show up in the refrigerator. Inadequate cooling could be due to extreme ambient temperature. Sun shining on the refrigerator side of the coach will inhibit cooling. So will too large a space between the back of the refrigerator and the coach outside wall. The air coming in the lower vent must pass over the coils. If too much clearance between it and the wall, air can rise and exit without cooling the coils. A gap above the refrigerator also inhibits cooling, as the hot air collects there and does not exit. Read your refrigerator installation manual for exact specs on suggested clearances. Many of us have installed 12 VDC muffin fans at the top of the coils to push the air up and out the roof/upper vent. That will improve performance. Yes, it is possible that the cooling unit is going out, but look at all the inexpensive easy fixes first. Brett
  16. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Also called After-cooler. Also called Inter-cooler. Intake air exits the turbo-- often over 300 degrees F. The CAC is an air to air "radiator" that cools the air to close to ambient temperature before it goes to the engine intake manifold. If you raise the bed and look inside the fan shroud/between fan blades, you will see the CAC, NOT the radiator. The fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter, so look closely with a strong flashlight and make sure that the perimeter, particularly lower perimeter is as clean as the center. Restrictions to air flow makes intake temperatures higher and limits air flow to the radiator which is located behind it. Brett
  17. Actually 7.75 MPG with a 40' DP in the mountains, towing a heavy toad isn't bad. And, does that count the diesel to run the generator? But to improve MPG: slow down-- perhaps 200 RPM over peak torque in 6th gear (so 1640 RPM or so). Drive in economy mode. Climb at around 2000 RPM-- higher uses a lot more fuel. And, indeed there are a lot of Safari owners who have had to open the rear of their coach to gain adequate air flow. Be sure to keep the front of the CAC clean-- that helps with MPG and HP (lowers intake air temperature) and keeps better air flow to the radiator for less overheating. Brett
  18. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. How long has it been on. It takes 24 hours for an absorption refrigerator to reach operating temperature. Any difference when running on propane or 120 VAC? Brett
  19. Normally, you can turn on the water pump (turn off shore water) and listen for the pump to run. Listen inside and in the basement compartments. They are noisy enough that it should be findable. But, hopefully someone with the same coach will respond.
  20. wolfe10

    XZE/XZE2 Michelin

    Mel, http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/tireInfo.do?tread=XZE Click on Specifications. Before locking in on the 9R, check dimensions on this Michelin tire site. Look carefully at the 255/80R22.5. But they are both XZE's. Our coach came on 9R's and upgraded to the 255's a decade ago. Brett
  21. Before looking at that, turn on the engine and headlights and check voltage at the head lights. In many cases, you will find what is 14 VDC at the battery or alternator is sometimes under 12 VDC at the headlights. If that is your issue, clearly the bulbs will be dim. Easy fix is to power the head lights through a relay. Use the head light switch to open/close the relay. Run a large-gauge wire from the battery or other large-gauge power source to the relay and then large gauge wires to the head lights themselves. 14 VDC will be a lot brighter than 12 VDC. Brett
  22. Beautiful weather (low high 50s, high high 70s). The facility is great. The majority of seminars are in one building, and in the same building as the indoor exhibits. Coach display across the street. I have been pretty heads down giving seminars and have two more today (Suspension and Ask the Expert), so I really have not had a lot of time to look around myself. Brett
  23. That depends on what inverter you have and how it is wired. Many have a "Pass Through" feature. When they receive 120 VAC from the generator or shore power, they merely "pass it through". If your inverter has this feature, you need to verify that 120 VAC is getting to the inverter from your coach's main 120 VAC breaker panel. Others are wired with a second ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Be aware that most outlets are wired with/through a GFI which may need to be reset. But if tripped, it should not work off the inverter either. Brett
  24. Joe, Once primed, there should not be a need to re-prime. Need to re-prime would indicate an air leak at a filter or line from tank to engine. Hard start at high altitudes, which usually means low temperatures, means you should start by verifying that the correct starting procedure is followed (see your Caterpillar Engine Manual). If still a problem, verify that the intake heater is functioning properly. Brett
  25. Ya, we are here too. Low tonight in Madison 54 degrees. High tomorrow, 76 degrees. BEAUTIFUL.
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