wolfe10

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I reached out to an FMCA staff member and got this response: Looks like they are a Commercial Member, C012859. Record doesn’t say whether or not they give a discount to FMCA members. Contact is Steve Wenger: steven.wenger@mobileye.com

Guys, Let's not let this thread go way off course. Please, back to the OP's question: " What are the Driver License requirements for driving Class A Motorhome ?"

Please tell us what chassis/engine you have and what you have checked or replaced to address this.

Not sure how the IRS (Federal Government) would be involved with driver's licenses (a state function).

At what ambient temperature, and verify that the condenser fan was running? Low side PSI (what you are reading) IS temperature dependent. What was temperature at the return (inside coach) and what was temperature at the center vent with the fan on high, engine at 1,200-1,300 RPM?

Actually, from actual experience is that not very many of the minimum wage clerks at the DMV's are familiar with the requirements. That is why I recommended READING the requirements yourself. Said another way, were you involved in an accident, I would not want to be your attorney blaming a DMV clerk for you to not have a license that allows you to legally operate your vehicle.

You need to look up the requirements in YOUR STATE for your weight/size RV. Do NOT just ask a clerk at a DMV location-- many have never looked it up (probably applies to less than 1/2 of 1% of licenses). Read it for yourself. If you let us know what state you are in and GVWR on your motorhome, someone may already know the answer.

talloaks12, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This may help with your decision-- will you be using your same interconnect cables and cables to house positive and ground? If so, that will help dictate what you go with. If all new cabling or at least new ends, your possibilities open up and should be influenced by what style will allow you best access for servicing and will be influenced by the configuration of the battery compartment in your coach.

duhlenbrock@fmca.com is correct--- I communicate with Doug all the time using that address. Be sure you do not put a "period" after it!

macsboat, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what you are driving and what tire size you need-- advice for what worked well on a small Class C may not be of value if you are driving a 45' DP.

Not familiar with "New Priest Grade", but Wikipedia shows it as 4%. Many interstate grades are more than that-- with 6% being a common max grade. Yes, there will be grades more than 4% on U.S. 64. So, you will be going slow-- no big deal. We have done it several times in our Foretravel-- 36' DP with 250 HP. No problem. You might post (preferably as a signature so you do not have to write it every time) with what coach you have. That will help to get better information for your coach.

Done the U.S. 64 several times in a coach. Some "technical mountain driving", but good road and great scenery. U.S. 50, the loneliest road in America is another of our favorites when headed from PNW to Texas.

And, if low while driving (low being below 13.0 VDC) figure out WHY.

Kind of hard to diagnose over the internet, but with virtually any MAJOR electrical issue involving multiple systems, checking all major connections is one of the first. What relay was replaced? Ignition solenoid?

beaver07, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With all those electric issues occurring at the same time, I would sure check that all onncetions at the batteries are clean and tight. Check chassis ground as well. What did the dash voltage read when this event happened?

Ray, Isn't your solar charge controller also programmable?

Could it be-- sure. Always the place to start is to verify that it is programmed for the battery chemistry, battery bank size and temperature (if no battery temperature sensor). Do NOT assume it was properly programmed at the factory!

natgild, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As I am sure you are aware, with many working from home, things are not normal. I contacted FMCA staff. They asked that you e-mail: bwulfeck@fmca.com Let us know the outcome.

Ray, Without knowing what phase of charging the controller was in when you read 13.7 VDC, we can only guess. 13.7 is a little low for BULK and ABSORPTION 13.7 is high for FLOAT unless you are in cold conditions (proper voltages for each phase ARE temperature dependent).

While I agree warranty period is important, very likely none will have a warranty long enough to be relevant to "replacement due to age". Said another way, whether the warranty period starts today or a year ago, the tire will be well out of warranty when you replace them due to age.

roblwhitney, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While there is some variance on WHEN to replace tires, absolutely, you want the freshest tires you can get. Wouldn't hurt to call the tire manufacturer and ask them where to get fresh tires in your size near you. And, if the choice is one year old tires by your "first choice" vs 3 week old tires from your "second choice"....................

Jeff, Start out with your search here, after signing into the FMCA website: https://fmca.com/towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down/ You can search by year model for the last 20 years for what the vehicle manufacturer's deem towable 4 wheels down. I say start here, because, while it is as up to date as they can keep it, some manufacturers retroactively change what can be towed/requirements for towing. But, a good place to start. Basics are to narrow down the list based on what kind of vehicle YOU want to drive.

Yup, can't have both best longevity of a "heat producing electrical appliance" and most floor space. We are into marketing philosophy, and suspect they made the correct marketing decision.

Please be aware that this is an old thread from 2016 that was "resurrected"yesterday. If there are current comments, they should really be put in a new thread. This one closed.