wolfe10

Thanks, Ray. Good information. And, since the closing/re-openings are in a state of flux, best to call before heading out AND immediately before arriving.

struys, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Agree, a wist pin failure that late in an ISL's life would be VERY unusual. Common for them to fail fairly quickly or live a long life. Please do keep us posted on the facts as they relate to what failed and the root cause. BTW, $45k sounds very high. Suspect (purely my speculation) but Cummins would likely be more prone to help if this were at a Cummins dealership, not Freightliner dealership. I would at least visit with the Cummins dealer and likely pay, even if out of my own pocket to have it taken to a Cummins dealership. And, kind of like heart surgery, I would rather have a specialist do this (a Cummins tech) vs a generalist at a chassis store who only occasionally did engine work, but also did suspension work, brake work, transmission work, routine service work, etc.

A great park. Was there 2 weeks ago.

https://www.yokohamatruck.com/commercial/owners-circle/ytmm-recall Yokohama Tire Corporation (Yokohama Tire) is recalling certain Yokohama RY023 tires, size 255/70R22.5 16H (DOT date code 0320 and 0520 through 0620), RY023 tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0520), RY023 tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0320 and 0520), RY617 tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date code 0320), RY617 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0220 and 0420 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 295/75R22.5 14G (DOT date codes 0220 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0420 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0620), TY527 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date code 0520), 712L tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0420 through 0620), 712L tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0620 and 0320 through 0420), 709ZL tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date code 0420), 709ZL tires, size 11R24.5 14G (DOT date code 0220), LY053 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0620), 109L tires, size 11R22.5 14G (DOT date codes 0220 and 0420 through 0620), 109L tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0620 and 0320 through 0420), 109L tires, size 295/75R22.5 14G (DOT date code 0420), 108R tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 and 0620), and 715R tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0420). Due to improper manufacturing, the tires tread or bead may detach, possibly resulting in loss of vehicle control. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires - Other than Passenger Cars." A sudden loss of vehicle control increases the risk of a crash. Yokohama will notify owners, and dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin March 31, 2020. Owners may contact Yokohama’s customer service by calling 1-800-722-9888 or recall@yokohamatire.com.

YUP: https://www.kvue.com/article/news/health/coronavirus/coronavirus-texas-public-health-disaster-abbott/269-fb3ef839-bf7a-4345-8e69-e63213825418 Happening all over the WORLD.

Suspect we may have run the complete gamut on the wipe issue! Please, let's move on OR retreat to original topic. Thanks. Moderator

I just put filters in gallon or 2.5 gallon zip locks and in a box with tools to change them in the basement. Even if you do zero work yourself, have the next guy show you what tools are needed and buy them. Again, lots of people know how to do this-- not all of them travel with either the correct filters for your coach or the needed tools to change them on your coach. But, surely, this is an individual decision. No group consensus needed.

I sure have to disagree here. Not being prepared for that (yes, rare) tank of contaminated fuel is an unnecessary risk. Again, carry them whether you can install them or have them on hand for someone else to install. Only downside is having filters on hand ahead of when you know you will need them.

Carry at least one spare of each fuel filter. You WILL be able to find someone who knows how to replace them. But, you may be in an area where finding the correct filter is not so easy. Also, check your Cummins manual or contact Cummins so you know the correct filter change/prime procedure. I know on our 2003 ISL, the electric fuel pump would prime the filters merely by turning the key to the first position a couple of times. VERY EASY.

First, a question: do you have only that one or do you have two fuel filters? This is critical to make sure you get the correct micron rating filter(s). Let us know and post what fuel filter number(s) you have. Most primary fuel filters have either a clear bowl so you can see if there is water or dirt in the fuel (my reference) or a drain. As already stated, if all you have is a drain, you only need to drain an ounce or so-- if all you get is clean diesel, close it. Water and dirt settle to the bottom of the filter, so if either are present, they will come out immediately. Again, all you are doing is opening the drain until clean, clear diesel comes out.

Guys, We are getting very close to this turning into a political discussion-- off limits on this and about every other RV forum I am aware of. Please, let's keep this one on track. Thanks. Moderator

First thing I would to do is put a thermometer in the refrigerator. That will tell you IF the thermostat should be signaling it to be on. Often times the propane burner does not go from full heat output to zero, but slowly looses output as rust and dust deposit in the burner tube. When was the last time you did a burner area tune-up??

In a word, YES. The thermostat should cycle it on/off on propane or 120 VAC.

Assume you have reached in and turned the motor over by hand to insure that it is not locked up (VERY rare). Also, with the starter out, check the teeth of flywheel.

Good point, Wayne. So, along that line, let me ask that everyone refrain from posting on this thread until FMCA Staff has a chance to provide details next week (it is currently after closing time on Friday in Cincinnati). I would prefer not to have to LOCK the tread, as it will be useful to post developments as they happen. Will continue updating as we get more information from HQ. Discussions on the virus and its effect on other world events may certainly be posted in a new thread in the "General Discussion" area rather than here under "FMCA Conventions". Thanks. Brett/moderator

Posted on the FMCA home page just a few minutes ago: https://www.fmca.com/ With escalating concern regarding the COVID-19 virus, and the Tucson mayor’s recommendation on March 12, 2020, that large gatherings be postponed, on Friday, March 13, 2020, at 4:30 p.m. Eastern, FMCA's Board of Directors voted to cancel FMCA's 101st International Convention and RV Expo set to take place March 26 through 29 in Tucson, Arizona. We understand that you will have questions, but ask that you please remain patient as we make arrangements for this unprecedented situation. Additional communications will follow next week.

Yes, Foretravel has had 4 wheel air disk brakes for decades, along with transmission retarders. They share a lot of components with emergency equipment like fire trucks.

Guys, It is Kubota (with an a). https://www.kubotausa.com/about

Wayne, Disk brakes on the rear (park brake is on the rear axle or driveshaft, not front)?

Measure voltage at the generator starter when engaging the starter. If voltage drops below 12.0 VDC, may be a loose or dirty connection from battery to genset. Be sure to check the ground side as well.

Yup, soap/bubbles is the way to test any air fitting/device that could leak externally. Kiddie bubbles is best, but any soap that you "foam up" will work. Rinse them off when you are through.

No simple answer. Depends on boat (hull design/shape as well as LWL= length water line), the "fetch" of the wave (how far off shore you are), as well as direction. Directly behind you is NOT the fastest point of sail. A beam reach (wind 90-120 degrees from your course) is the fastest. Back in 1990 before GPS or really good weather forecasts, we set out from Marco Island to Marathon on an overnight sail to put us in at Sawyer Bank off Marathon about 9:00 AM. This was important, as Sawyer bank marked the beginning of coral heads that were only knee deep to a water bird. Given the forecast, we left late afternoon for the 80+ mile sail. Wind was forecast to from the east at 10 mph-- so calm seas (we are just off the west coast of Florida) and easy full sail reach-- ya ideal. In those conditions, we calculated averaging 6 knots. OK, so the weather guy was not accurate-- winds were 15-18 from the East-- at least his direction was accurate. Dianne and I were in our Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37'-- a very good offshore boat. When Dianne revealed me for the 2AM to 4AM watch I told here we were ahead of schedule and unless the wind abated, we would need to come up with plan B, as arriving at Sawyer bank in the dark was not a good idea. She woke me at 3:30 AM with her first major offshore decision-- we were way ahead of schedule-- even under reefed main and staysail we were still averaging 7.2 knots. She showed me on the chart (ya a paper chart-- still carry them for backup) a 2 square mile area a mile off Middle Cape (south Everglades) that was 8' deep with no obstructions and recommended we go there and drop anchor for a couple of hours. I told her-- excellent decision, wake me when you need me to drop the anchor. Slept for a few hours and finished our passage into Key Marathon. Things don't always go as planned on paper. BUT (the FUN BUT) if in a hurry and you are fully awake and engaged, 25 knots on your quartering stern is FUN. Did that from Biloxi to New Orleans one time and arrived 3 hours ahead of schedule. Yes, the boat had to be had steered because of the following seas, but was it ever fun.

Roof air or basement air? Make and model if you know it.

Wayne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Did this slide malfunction start before or after replacing the batteries?

Yup, original wires to "close" a relay that supplies voltage directly from battery (with fuse at battery). Even a one volt increase makes a LOT of difference in illumination. Been there, done that.