wolfe10

I agree with kaypsmith. Check RV salvage yards for late model chairs with the three point belts you would prefer. Let us know where you are and we may be able to direct you to a yard nearby.

Understanding normal voltage with both engine running and generator running is a little complicated. Since BOTH sources (alternator and inverter/charger) are ON (if everything working properly) whichever is set to higher voltage will be doing the heavy lifting. But, even if one is not working, the other could "cover for its friend". So, to properly evaluate both alternator and inverter/charger, they need to be operated separately. Evaluating voltage drop with no charging device on is a little tricky. Absolutely, if checking while there is a load on the battery (either 12 VDC directly or especially 120 VAC through the inverter) it WILL read lower than the REST VOLTAGE. And, when discussing rest voltage, that is with no charging device on and no loads for at least one hour. Very common for voltage to "bounce back" after loads are turned off. The heavier the load, the more the drop under load and more the "bounce back" after removing the load.

Unless you had on some heavy loads, particularly powered by the inverter. dropping to 12.37 after 25 minutes may indicate bad battery. Most places that sell batteries will test them for FREE. How is the battery water level?

Ya, the remote panel gives you a lot more options. Try selecting AGM type batteries-- they call for a little lower float voltage that will make your batteries last longer.

FunGlamping08, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please confirm that your front slide is HWH hydraulic. If not, please tell us what it is.

I do not see the telephone-type cable for a REMOTE. If you don't have a remote panel inside, you will need to pull out the Xantrex manual and look up programming/setting dip switches. You can also find it on-line on Xantrex's website. Ambient temperature is part of the initial setup along with battery bank size (in amp-hours) and battery technology (wet cell, gel or AGM).

Agreed. Again, try unplugging the temperature sensor (if you have one) and reprogramming for HOT ambient temperature.

If you are in Ft Worth as your signature says, temperatures are in the 70's. So, 13.9 is too high for FLOAT MODE. If you have a remote temperature probe, go to the inverter charger and unplug it (telephone type connection-- no tools needed). Then program the inverter charger to hot ambient temperature and see what you get after 24 hours.

The answer to the "high voltage" COULD be as simple as insufficient time has transpired for the inverter/charger to go into FLOAT MODE. Said another way, the inverter/charger may still be (correctly) in bulk or absorption mode. Answer to one question will rule that in/out: What is voltage at the battery 24 hours after plugging in (uninterrupted shore power)?

14 or even 14.2 VDC is just fine right after you plug in. When the inverter/charger first gets 120 VAC from shore power or generator, it starts in BULK MODE. The concern is what voltage drops to once the batteries are fully charged. So, after, say a couple of hours and on to days and weeks if plugged in, 14 is too high. The smart part of the inverter/charger (you don't say what brand/model you have) does this automatically (higher voltage, but drops it into the 13.2-13.5 range in FLOAT MODE.

Have you PROGRAMMED the new inverter/charger? Most are programmable. To be "smart", they need to know things like how large is the battery bank (in amp-hrs), what battery technology (wet cell, AGM or gel) and ambient temperature (if it does not have the optional temperature probe). Your inverter/charger owners manual (or on line) outlines this easy process. 14 VDC is just find for BULK MODE, but too high for FLOAT MODE-- once batteries are charged, float voltage should be in the 13.2 range. A little high if very cold out. Your last statement is a puzzler, as there is no difference to the inverter/charger whether it receives 120 VAC from shore power or generator. In fact there is only one set of wires carrying power from either source from the ATS through the 120 VAC main breaker box to the inverter/charger.

Guys, This thread is approaching 4 years old with only no follow up since then by the OP. Let's close this one. Anyone is very welcome to start a new thread, but let's not resurrect a thread from February 2015 with no followup by the original poster. Closed.

If the tank was contaminated 5 days ago, very likely there would be some residual DPF still in the tank. Concentration would not go from "enough to do damage to an engine" to zero in even a couple of tanker truck loads. Also, remember that DEF is 67% distilled water. Water is heavier than diesel so would go to the bottom of the storage tank so less likely to "turn over" with diesel added to the tank. And, if this occurred to others, that state agency is the one they as well as he should have contacted.

The question often comes up in discussions of the "care and feeding" of diesel pushers:L HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE FUEL FILTERS. Fuel filters are one of the very few things for which there is NO average life. If all they see is clean diesel, they can go several years. But (actually LARGE BUT), one tank of contaminated diesel can take out a couple of sets of brand new filters. One reason I like the primary filters with a clear bowl-- it allows one to get a visual check on fuel condition at a glance.

I would IMMEDIATELY contact: https://www.tn.gov/agriculture/consumers/fuel/quality-complaints.html Request that they IMMEDIATELY take a sample. If they can't do it immediately, ask for their recommendation of who can do it and get it to them for evaluation. Anything else will very likely get into a "he claims/she claims". They are also the agency to monitor existance of other similar claims. If the contamination resulted is a NO RUN condition, others will reach out.

Hey, driving a motorhome is a LOT less work than the sailboat. And a LOT faster! But, hard to cross the Gulf Stream in a motorhome!

Sounds like a great idea. Sorry Dianne and I will not be there. Sail boat is already in LaBelle Florida. After Xmas rent car to the boat and head to the Bahamas for the winter. I can already hear the lobsters whispering-- dinner your place!

While true, the generally only applies to any component directly damaged by the aftermarket device. I would sure not want to be FCA's lawyer in front of a judge trying to explain why an engine warranty was denied because of an aftermarket brake device!

Yes, you are absolutely correct. But, enough mentions of GFI's in the thread that we need to make sure the two devices (breakers vs GFI) are not confused.

Overload (drawing too many amps) will trip the BREAKER. It will not trip the GFI. The two serve very different functions.

lbivens, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Any new batteries/changes in wiring immediately before this happened? The heater should be wired to the HOUSE battery-- sounds like it is currently wired to the chassis battery through the IGNITION SOLENOID.

No way for us to know. First, a "why don't we hear more about this from OTR truckers or other on-highway users"?? OTR trucks they burn their fuel too fast to encounter this issue. Algae/bacteria contamination of diesel fuel depends on several factors: Presence of water under the diesel (from either condensation or from the station tank/pump). It is at the water/diesel interface that the algae/bacteria flourish. Presence of algae/bacteria in the fuel you added (as an example most marine diesel comes with an biocide added, as storage is an issue in boats as well. Ambient temperature. Higher temperature, more algae/bacteria growth. As with many things, there are two ways to look at it: Best practices What I got away with Not suggesting which way is the right way for anyone, just that there IS a difference.

Remember, when storing your coach, it is MUCH better to store with a full tank of fuel. This materially reduces condensation. And: If storing #2 diesel (spring, summer, fall fill ups) into below freezing temperatures, add an ANTI-GEL. PS brand is available at Walmart. If storing fuel over 2 months in the summer (warm temperatures) or 3 months in the winter, add a BIOCIDE. Biobar JF is a popular brand.

Good through process. But, if 160 amp-hrs (and that is only with new, completely charged batteries), the most he should use to not materially shorten battery life is 80 amp-hrs (50% discharge). And that 80 would not be available after the first discharge while dry camping, as it is not economically feasible to run a generator to power a charger to get above about 85% SOC (charge rate tapers off to where fuel to run the generator is a lot more than is reasonable for the few amps it takes to go from 85-100%. How fast they will charge depends on several factors: Type of battery-- AGM's have lower internal resistance, so charge faster than wet cell batteries. We have no idea what amp charger he has and whether it is "smart". Smart chargers charge at higher voltage (and therefore amps into the battery) in BULK MODE= when batteries are deeply discharged. "Stupid" chargers/converters charge at the same voltage whether the batteries are fully charged or deeply discharged.

You have air entering the fuel system. The question is WHERE? Yes, since you just changed filters, that is the first suspect. But, fuel lines can also crack and since they are on the suction side of the lift pump, they typically leak air IN, not fuel OUT. No idea what could cause the engine to go to governed redline from a start up. I would sure have the Cummins computer checked for codes (Scan Gauge D, Silverleaf or dealer).