wolfe10

A VERY important feature on marine GPS's. We call them "bread crumbs". Allow us to navigate previously traveled areas with confidence. Particularly helpful in dodging coral heads at night (leaving from south end of Key Biscayne for W End Grand Bahamas, for daylight arrival in the Bahamas, for example)

Suspect that 22,000 is GCWR (Gross COMBINED Weight Rating), not GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). As with any vehicle, weight put WAY behind the rear axle adds more than that weight to the rear axle and subtracts weight from the front axle. It is somewhat understandable that Winnebago has no published specs for weight in a particular compartment, as weight there is "just part of the whole" and applies to GAWR, GVWR and GCWR.

I understand that wine will help restore brain function. Plenty of wineries near you.

Carl, Be the engineer/scientist you are. You can determine ratio from the bottle. May have to "steal" a measuring cup. I say steal, as can't see returning it to the galley!

Not unless you head that way right now. The white PS also contains an ANTI-GEL.

And, some hydraulically operated generator slides just use hydraulic pressure to hold them in. So, could just be a leaking somewhere in the system leaking down. Any sign of hydraulic fluid leak either at the hydraulic pump/solenoid, lines to the generator slide or slide cylinder itself? Suspect it will be the same as found on other Monaco products of that vintage. Hope someone with first hand information will chime in.

https://supersteerparts.com/product/motorhome/class-a/roadmaster-chassis/monaco-bushing/

Front to back would not be sway bar end links-- they are vertical. Likely trailing arm bushings, but as suggested, a picture will tell the story. Please verify if you have the 4 inboard or 8 outboard Roadmaster suspension as they are very different.

Sounds like the SWAY BAR end link bushings. There are 8 total bushings-- 4 on each side. If worn, the sway bar does little to control sway. Pretty easy to replace, and polyurethane bushings are far superior to rubber.

Mike, In most cases, bolts holding metal to metal (suspension to body) are torqued so that there is no movement-- so lubricating does not address the root cause of the noise. Exactly what bolts (holding what to what) are they-- want to make sure you are safe to drive.

Though using resistors to lower voltage may be simple, I sure hate to see an alternator work harder to have that energy turned into HEAT in the resistors.

All your coach (2010 model) has ever seen is ULSD (ULTRA LOW Sulfur diesel). The new standards for marine allows for more Sulfur content than on-highway diesel which is 15 PPM.

Good job.

Either you do have a bad battery (or batteries) OR there is some parasitic load that the battery disconnect did not disconnect. Do you have a voltmeter with amp/ammeter function? If so, you can trace the possible parasitic load pretty quickly.

In most cases, you do NOT have to run new cables. Yes, may need adapters. My suggestion is to contact Tim-- this is what he/they do for a living http://www.rvcams.com/

NOTE FROM MODERATOR: With the changes the IT department has just made, please only post occurrences of the Error Code EX-1 that occur from here forward. Rather than have others having to wade through 3 pages of "it is happening to me" (before the change that was just implemented) I have deleted all but the initial post and actual updates on what is happening and how it has been addressed by FMCA Staff. Again, a BIG THANKS to the IT department for getting this fixed!

Correct. And in many cases torque values are ONLY for one or the other (lubricated or dry). Do NOT confuse two, as lubing and torquing to dry specs will WAY over-torque the fastener.

And, one has to be mindful of lubricated vs dry specs. BIG difference.

Excellent advice, Ken.

Sukki1942, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With either a steerable or liftable tag, turning radius is reduced, and with a liftable tag, one can move a lot of weight from tag axle to drive axle to help with traction of the drive wheels. With that said, we have moved a LONG WAY from the original topic. Let me suggest to everyone further discussions on Tags be in a new thread. Thanks. Brett/moderator

Richard, Salvage yard? Call Kohler, and ask for the name of some of their old-time dealers-- those who have been around and servicing their units since your was built. Someone may have what you need in their scrap heap. Could also search for "service dealer" from Kohler's website: http://www.kohlerpower.com/home/sales-service/find-a-dealer

In what part of the country? Without that you could get answers 2,000 miles from where you want to be.

Thanks, for the review. Do you have a link and $$?

Could be something as simple as suspension settling. Have you laid on the ground next to (not under) the coach in the area where you hear the noise and see if you can pinpoint its origin?

Mike, Please tell us what chassis and coach you have.