wolfe10

The question often comes up in discussions of the "care and feeding" of diesel pushers:L HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE FUEL FILTERS. Fuel filters are one of the very few things for which there is NO average life. If all they see is clean diesel, they can go several years. But (actually LARGE BUT), one tank of contaminated diesel can take out a couple of sets of brand new filters. One reason I like the primary filters with a clear bowl-- it allows one to get a visual check on fuel condition at a glance.

I would IMMEDIATELY contact: https://www.tn.gov/agriculture/consumers/fuel/quality-complaints.html Request that they IMMEDIATELY take a sample. If they can't do it immediately, ask for their recommendation of who can do it and get it to them for evaluation. Anything else will very likely get into a "he claims/she claims". They are also the agency to monitor existance of other similar claims. If the contamination resulted is a NO RUN condition, others will reach out.

Hey, driving a motorhome is a LOT less work than the sailboat. And a LOT faster! But, hard to cross the Gulf Stream in a motorhome!

Sounds like a great idea. Sorry Dianne and I will not be there. Sail boat is already in LaBelle Florida. After Xmas rent car to the boat and head to the Bahamas for the winter. I can already hear the lobsters whispering-- dinner your place!

While true, the generally only applies to any component directly damaged by the aftermarket device. I would sure not want to be FCA's lawyer in front of a judge trying to explain why an engine warranty was denied because of an aftermarket brake device!

Yes, you are absolutely correct. But, enough mentions of GFI's in the thread that we need to make sure the two devices (breakers vs GFI) are not confused.

Overload (drawing too many amps) will trip the BREAKER. It will not trip the GFI. The two serve very different functions.

lbivens, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Any new batteries/changes in wiring immediately before this happened? The heater should be wired to the HOUSE battery-- sounds like it is currently wired to the chassis battery through the IGNITION SOLENOID.

No way for us to know. First, a "why don't we hear more about this from OTR truckers or other on-highway users"?? OTR trucks they burn their fuel too fast to encounter this issue. Algae/bacteria contamination of diesel fuel depends on several factors: Presence of water under the diesel (from either condensation or from the station tank/pump). It is at the water/diesel interface that the algae/bacteria flourish. Presence of algae/bacteria in the fuel you added (as an example most marine diesel comes with an biocide added, as storage is an issue in boats as well. Ambient temperature. Higher temperature, more algae/bacteria growth. As with many things, there are two ways to look at it: Best practices What I got away with Not suggesting which way is the right way for anyone, just that there IS a difference.

Remember, when storing your coach, it is MUCH better to store with a full tank of fuel. This materially reduces condensation. And: If storing #2 diesel (spring, summer, fall fill ups) into below freezing temperatures, add an ANTI-GEL. PS brand is available at Walmart. If storing fuel over 2 months in the summer (warm temperatures) or 3 months in the winter, add a BIOCIDE. Biobar JF is a popular brand.

Good through process. But, if 160 amp-hrs (and that is only with new, completely charged batteries), the most he should use to not materially shorten battery life is 80 amp-hrs (50% discharge). And that 80 would not be available after the first discharge while dry camping, as it is not economically feasible to run a generator to power a charger to get above about 85% SOC (charge rate tapers off to where fuel to run the generator is a lot more than is reasonable for the few amps it takes to go from 85-100%. How fast they will charge depends on several factors: Type of battery-- AGM's have lower internal resistance, so charge faster than wet cell batteries. We have no idea what amp charger he has and whether it is "smart". Smart chargers charge at higher voltage (and therefore amps into the battery) in BULK MODE= when batteries are deeply discharged. "Stupid" chargers/converters charge at the same voltage whether the batteries are fully charged or deeply discharged.

You have air entering the fuel system. The question is WHERE? Yes, since you just changed filters, that is the first suspect. But, fuel lines can also crack and since they are on the suction side of the lift pump, they typically leak air IN, not fuel OUT. No idea what could cause the engine to go to governed redline from a start up. I would sure have the Cummins computer checked for codes (Scan Gauge D, Silverleaf or dealer).

Ya, deleted a couple of posts that really went "sideways". Closed.

Many water heaters have a check valve. If they fail, water flow is materially reduced. Access the back of your water heater and see if you have a check valve screwed into it.

Since Texas has no income tax, yes property taxes are higher. But, one really needs to look at the NET tax burden, not just one source.

Well said, Jim. I am going to lock this thread-- really nothing more to say on the subject. And, yes, HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO EVERYONE.

Ray, Same for the ISL. I replaced mine (cracked exhaust manifold). Plenty of penetrating oil and gently persuasion and all the bolts came out. Look for both cracks and if the crack is bad enough, for black deposits (soot from exhaust escaping).

Yes, very likely bad batteries. Fully charge them and have them load tested. Most any place that sells batteries will do this for free.

Thanks for the update.

First, 14.19 is fine for BULK MODE, but high for float unless ambient temperature is around freezing. And, yes 12.44 is low, even if disconnected from shore power unless you are running a lot of 12 VDC things in the coach. If that 12.44 was still while plugged in, indeed you have a problem with the batteries or charger.

lynettel1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is the only National product review from that time period that I found (Tropi-cal) doing a quick search on the magazine section of fmca.com: https://familyrvingmag.com/2005/05/01/national-rv-tropi-cal/

Again, without knowing what steering box you have, this is only a guess based on the Sheppard (very popular HD steering box: The mechanical stops absolutely should be set so that tires can not interfere with suspension or body. Then steering box plungers screwed in until a small (1/8") gap. Since your cut angle is enough for the tires to touch the bags, both mechanical stop and steering box need to be adjusted for slightly less cut angle. Left side/right side can be very different depending on drag link, etc.

This info for Sheppard steering box-- let us know what you have: Yes, it is CRITICAL to adjust both the physical stops on the knuckles (adjust such that there IS clearance between tires and suspension/body components). Then, (actually both done a little bit at a time) the plungers (tiny external screws) are adjusted such that there is a 1/8" gap between axle and stop. This is really important, as if steering box is able to drive all the way to the physical stop, PSI in the steering sector goes way up and very easily blows the seals. An easy job once you understand the concept and have a second person to turn the steering wheel stop to stop.

Richard, Yes, if you have a Sheppard steering box, very easy external adjustments (to limit cut angle) with a small screwdriver.

Richard, I would not make a decision based on less than a 1% difference in engine RPM/MPH-- very small difference in change to effective rear axle ratio.