wolfe10

Tiffin also has their "in house" chassis, POWERGLIDE. Gary Jones, a well known DP chassis designer has his "handprints" all over it. Gary also did the Alpine chassis called Peak. https://tiffinmotorhomes.com/innovations/powerglide Here is a brochure from 2008: https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/chassis/powerglide_overview.pdf

debbie1mm, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure I understand. Do you not have a tow vehicle? Need assistance in maneuvering? Other?

AFTER, repeat AFTER verifying park pedestal with a voltmeter, I would have no problem short term plugging into it. If 50 amp: Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center round OR center straight= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC

Bill, Not suggesting that monitoring transmission temperature is not a good idea. My point is that with the Allison 3000 in his coach, that transmission temperature problems are very, very rare unless in protracted stop and go traffic. Comparatively, lots more causes of engine temperature issues-- starting with things as simple as sucking up a plastic bag that blocks air flow to the CAC and radiator, belt slipping, breaking, coolant loss from a bad hose or even broken hose clamp, stuck thermostat, etc.

cmf16, If you have the Allison 3000 transmission, you should not have heat issues with the transmission except, perhaps in stop and go traffic. This transmission's torque converter is locked up in higher speeds in second gear and all higher gears, so heat generation should not be an issue. Absolutely, on other transmission with non-locking torque converters, heat can be a major issue.

Two separate choices for exhaust brake with the Caterpillar 3126: What gear it "shifts toward" when the brake is engaged-- this gear will appear in the shift pad window on single window units and in the left window on two window units. 2nd and 4th are popular choices. My personal preference is 5th, as it allows more driver choices. It is ideal for those long, not too steep grades where a lower gear would over-brake, but does require the driver to use the down arrow to select lower gears. So, not as good for coming to a stop. Strictly personal choice. The other choice is whether the exhaust brake is in "manual mode" or "latch mode". Most are set to manual-- when the throttle is closed and switch turned on, the exhaust brake comes on. the BIG negative is you can't coast! In latch mode (my preference) you leave the switch on. It only comes on when the service brake is applied. It stays on even if you have your foot off the service brake until you hit the throttle. The only Caterpillar 3126 programming book I have is for 2005, so you will need to discuss these things with either Caterpillar Corp (877 777-3126) or with a Caterpillar dealer who will have specific info on your year model.

Yes, ECM should be flashed with specs for YOUR engine. A good time to make decisions on "pre-select" gear for exhaust brake. Should not be over 30 minutes of actual labor time. I would consider even one hour of labor a good investment.

Richard, Here in Texas we would say: "That ain't rite"! Yes, rite, not right-- have to pronounce it correctly.

GriffinWinnie02, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since this is a REAR WHEEL DRIVE, dolly towing is not recommended. Said another way, towing with the rear wheels on the dolly and front wheels on the ground is not recommended by and vehicle manufacturer.

Several chassis makers offered a choice of both Caterpillar and Cummins engines. The RV manufacturer decided on which (based on both HP and torque AND PRICE). Basically, the smaller the engine, the lower the price-- Cat or Cummins.

Yes, for older engines: New designation diesel oil recommendation by Cummins: CK4 15-40. NOT FA4.

poodles44, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What stretch of 101 are you asking about? We have done it in our 38' DP from south of San Francisco to just south of the Washington state border. One of our favorite summer routes. A variety of road conditions-- some freeway some winding two lane. Lots of great scenery. All very doable in your coach.

A standard salesperson line (good/hungry salesperson)-- irrespective of inventory. And, standard answers to question of "what kind of deal" is "up to ..." or "bring it in and we will work with you". That would be a salesperson/manager I would want to hire when I ran auto dealerships.

Kerrville is the center of the Texas Hill Country.

Then you are good to go!

Shawn, You asked about power, and yes a knowledgeable driver can properly use the drivetrain. But (actually large BUT) that does not mean it will be safe to do so. Many other factors come into play. The GCWR is far more complex than just "drive train". Both from a mechanical and from a legal standpoint. Are you within GCWR? If so, no problem-- just slower on long grades. And watch for overheating of engine or transmission.

I think this thread has run its course. With the urging of several members it will be locked. If further discussion of RV wiring is desired, please feel free to start a net thread. Thanks, Moderator

With the same configuration as RV 50 amp connections (two outer straights are hots, center straight is neutral and center round is ground)?

Yes, I have experience with house-type 30 amp/240-- two hots and a ground, but only in older construction. Not seen that in house-type 50 amp-- at least the ones built in the last 30 years I have experience with are all two hots, a neutral and a ground. Just the same as RV 50 amp.

Richard, Certainly understand your reasoning. Ya, our coaches allowed reasonable under-coach access-- even with safety stands positioned correctly with the coaches at normal ride height. 7" vertical access-- not even on a really skinny day!

Richard, Yes, adjusting the Sheppard box is exactly the same. Set the physical stops to prevent tire contact with body and suspension components. Use the adjustment screws on the steering box to achieve some clearance with the physical stop. The screws are what control pressure drop off. Dianne and I did it on two of our coaches (takes someone turning the steering wheel and someone under the coach). Takes about 20 minutes.

Yes, if the steering box is a Sheppard M100 (very common in DP's and OTR trucks), all it takes to adjust cut angles is a small standard screwdriver. Screws are external, so not difficult. Screwing them (one on top of steering box/one on the bottom) reduces cut angle.

Nope, but I would still suggest that the OP call Michelin Corp/U.S. HQ direct.

Because most tires are "batch made" and the RV tires are a small market, there ARE times when they are out of them. I would contact Michelin directly to verify status/schedule for delivery. Michelin 866-866-6605

If you have the Caterpillar manual primer pump, pump it. If hard to pump, no air in fuel system. If easy, you have AIR in the system. Pump until hard. Be sure to screw in the pump when you are finished.