wolfe10

That damage is generally caused by a loose connection. Loose connection= resistance=heat= burned wire.

Really depends on power to weight, design specs of cooling system, condition of cooling system, etc. Overheating on a DP is not that uncommon, particularly in 100 degree F temperatures on long grades. Knowing how to identify when your coach is likely to overheat and "driving around it" is something that all DP owners should have thought out ahead of time. "Plan B" is part of the heavy vehicle experience. Yes, we have climbed the Tehacahapi/Bakersfield grade in July early afternoon (driving from Flagstaff). No overheating in rear radiator DP. Just selected a gear/speed/throttle that worked and "toddled up the hill". Others passed us, but over half were on the side of the road before the crest.

wood6406, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not a HP issue. No, you won't be the first to the top of hill, but you should be able to drive it such that it does not/rarely overheats to the point of alarm. Choose a gear and throttle such that you still have a little throttle left (flooring it will still increase speed). You are in the correct RPM range. Assume this is a side radiator/CAC. If so, you also need to check that the fan is cycling to HIGH as temperature rises above thermostatically controlled temp. 160-170 sounds on the cold side for a 2001 ISC. About the only other maintenance I would do is replace the thermostat with a Cummins speced for your engine serial number. A thermostat can hang up/only partially open.

Yes, I would adjust the ride height back to factory spec. Same for any coach. Yes, be sure to have safety stands in place before fooling with the ride height adjustment!

I agree. And a side benefit is the polyurethane bushings are a little stiffer so they give better sway control.

captainmitch, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by gathering the facts: Pull a car-fax or equivalent. Ask to see a copy of the odometer statement (most states) signed by the previous owner. If engine hour meter, how many hours on it? Should easily be able to determine if 70k or 120k miles. Speak with the previous owner. At this point, not sure if this is a misrep by dealer or previous owner.

I understand that companies should/will develop and produce fuels based on the "economic imperatives". That can and should include legislated directives. We have seen the plus side of that with the EPA over the last 45+ years. Who in the world would have foreseen well more than 1 BHP/CID and very close to no emission in the 1970's? Ya, had sports cars back then that did the HP ( and was really fun to drive), but I digress. Makes prefect economic sense for a company to play the game-- bio diesel, ethanol....... For the planet????? Maybe not fair, but my whole career was in the automotive industry. I have seen the "can't do it" and "it is done" and then "we can deliver a LOT more HP with very low emissions".

We are getting VERY close to a political discussion here. How much diesel (produce and transport seed for crops that produce bio-diesel, farm equipment to plant, cultivate, harvest crops to be turned into bio-diesel, trucks to deliver bio material to the plant, energy to process it at the plant) is required to produce ONE GALLON of Bio-diesel? To me, that is the only relevant question. The rest is political! Anyone have current FACTS?

Sorry, BAD ADVICE. Anyone who says you are good to go with 12.60 and dropping voltage (with generator running AND and external battery charger on) on the CHASSIS BATTERY is scary. How long until it drops enough that the engine and transmission computers put you in time out? Again, you have at least TWO separate issues: The inverter/charger issue AND alternator/battery isolator issues. Which battery bank (house or chassis) did you put the external charger on? How many amps was it? With an external charger, you should be see in the high 13's to low 14's with the external charger ON.

Ya, could be a little misleading for a newbie, but Bill's comment above is right on and is talking about reserve strength of the TOWBAR, NOT CHANGE IN COACH TOWING CAPACITY: "Please explain what miss information I am giving out. What I stated is absolutely true and correct. A 10,00 lb rated towbar will have more reserve strength whether it is used in a 5000 lb receiver or a 20,000lb receiver. The main core subject of this thread is that aluminum towbars can break. So tell me why you think it is smart to use a minamaley capable tow bar or one that has a good reserve strength." Bill

Man, I know how hard you are studying, but I am not smart enough to know the answer to that one.

No idea if the electric ends are interchangeable with your generator, but: From the Dallas Craiglist: https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/rvs/d/onan-marquis-7000/6684260421.html Another option would be to remove the LP part of your old generator and install on the one you buy. Again, a good (old-time) Onan tech is your best bet for your options.

1. Check with nearby dealers who work on Onan generators. Probably going to find one where the motor part died and electric end OK. May be easier to swap out the whole electric end than just a rotor. 2. Look on Craigslist under RV, then "Onan" in search box. Yes, you will get a lot of hits where a motorhome has an Onan generator, but also, likely more than a few complete Onan generators. Like Ross, I doubt an RV salvage yard would be interested in tearing down a working generator to sell a rotor.

Ed, Any Allison dealer can verify programming and if incorrect, change it. BUT, if this is a recent change (vs it has always shifted this way), it is unlikely to be the ECU programming. I have no first hand experience with the 2500 (only 3000 and 4000) but wonder if an Allison dealer can check for codes (like we do on the 3000/4000 with the shift pad)?

Not "choosing to" manually downshift is VERY DIFFERENT from the transmission not being able to do it as it should. Yes, ASSUMING this is a significant change from "what it was"/"what it should be".

At Rich's request, this thread has been locked. He did the research and wants it to remain as a "resource document".

Go to Roadmaster's website and you can download very specific instructions for quite a number of different vehicles.

Ross, One of the problems I have is that it is VERY difficult to tell what percent bio is actually at the pump. Most pumps now say "up to .....%). Clerks clearly don't know. In many cases, a dice roll. Exception is those states where legislatures/farm lobbies have mandated percent bio, irrespective of economic or ecological considerations.

Totally agree. Years ago, Flying J was our "go to" fuel stop. No longer-- with or without a couple of cents discount, they are almost always at the high end of local pricing. Now we use: http://then.gasbuddy.com/ When we will need fuel, scroll along that part of our route for best price (cover a day's drive in under 2 minutes on the computer). Then use Google map/satellite plus street view to verify easy entrance/exit. My theory is that the cheapest fuel in an area is almost by definition a high volume store.

IF you are safe working around 240 VAC. With generator off, unplugged from CG and inverter/charger off: Remove lid to the ATS. Check for any burned wires or other signs of "trauma".

Please-- more facts. How did you check CG outlet? Pedestal breakers OFF and back ON then check with voltmeter?

But, the problem is not just the 120 VAC/inverter-charger issue. The alternator does not charge either battery bank either. Bottom line-- they need someone with their "driver's license" on a digital voltmeter and a basic working knowledge of the electrical system on a DP.

Actually, both Cummins and Caterpillar have published "max recommended biodiesel content" for their engines, which DO vary by engine family.

Good ideas, Richard. Couple of points: Batteries can ONLY be tested when fully charged. Yes, inverter/charger could be bad, but if no 120 VAC to it, same symptoms. No 120 VAC to it would certainly explain why no battery charging OR 120 VAC to some of the outlets (if inverter turned off). Again, they need someone who knows what a voltmeter is and has 30 minutes to test things.