wolfe10

1. Check with nearby dealers who work on Onan generators. Probably going to find one where the motor part died and electric end OK. May be easier to swap out the whole electric end than just a rotor. 2. Look on Craigslist under RV, then "Onan" in search box. Yes, you will get a lot of hits where a motorhome has an Onan generator, but also, likely more than a few complete Onan generators. Like Ross, I doubt an RV salvage yard would be interested in tearing down a working generator to sell a rotor.

Ed, Any Allison dealer can verify programming and if incorrect, change it. BUT, if this is a recent change (vs it has always shifted this way), it is unlikely to be the ECU programming. I have no first hand experience with the 2500 (only 3000 and 4000) but wonder if an Allison dealer can check for codes (like we do on the 3000/4000 with the shift pad)?

Not "choosing to" manually downshift is VERY DIFFERENT from the transmission not being able to do it as it should. Yes, ASSUMING this is a significant change from "what it was"/"what it should be".

At Rich's request, this thread has been locked. He did the research and wants it to remain as a "resource document".

Go to Roadmaster's website and you can download very specific instructions for quite a number of different vehicles.

Ross, One of the problems I have is that it is VERY difficult to tell what percent bio is actually at the pump. Most pumps now say "up to .....%). Clerks clearly don't know. In many cases, a dice roll. Exception is those states where legislatures/farm lobbies have mandated percent bio, irrespective of economic or ecological considerations.

Totally agree. Years ago, Flying J was our "go to" fuel stop. No longer-- with or without a couple of cents discount, they are almost always at the high end of local pricing. Now we use: http://then.gasbuddy.com/ When we will need fuel, scroll along that part of our route for best price (cover a day's drive in under 2 minutes on the computer). Then use Google map/satellite plus street view to verify easy entrance/exit. My theory is that the cheapest fuel in an area is almost by definition a high volume store.

IF you are safe working around 240 VAC. With generator off, unplugged from CG and inverter/charger off: Remove lid to the ATS. Check for any burned wires or other signs of "trauma".

Please-- more facts. How did you check CG outlet? Pedestal breakers OFF and back ON then check with voltmeter?

But, the problem is not just the 120 VAC/inverter-charger issue. The alternator does not charge either battery bank either. Bottom line-- they need someone with their "driver's license" on a digital voltmeter and a basic working knowledge of the electrical system on a DP.

Actually, both Cummins and Caterpillar have published "max recommended biodiesel content" for their engines, which DO vary by engine family.

Good ideas, Richard. Couple of points: Batteries can ONLY be tested when fully charged. Yes, inverter/charger could be bad, but if no 120 VAC to it, same symptoms. No 120 VAC to it would certainly explain why no battery charging OR 120 VAC to some of the outlets (if inverter turned off). Again, they need someone who knows what a voltmeter is and has 30 minutes to test things.

Have you contacted nearby RV parks for recommendations for mobile RV repair? Again, nothing magical about the alternator, battery isolator and wiring.

Towing is a lot tougher on the motorhome than driving. Where are you located and what are you driving-- got to be someone familiar with your 12 VDC system. May even be someone on the Forum near you.

We do not have enough information to be able to answer that. How many amp-hrs are your chassis batteries? How old/degraded are they? How much power does it take to power your coach's engine/transmission electronics and other electric systems. Remember, a reading of 12.8 VDC when the charger is on is NOT the same as 12.8 VDC with the batteries at rest. With charger on, you will need readings close to 14 VDC to show full charge. You really need more than a 10 amp charger to get this done. Can't you borrow a bigger charger? Another option to more quickly charge the chassis is to use your toad's alternator-- use jumper cables from toad battery to coach chassis batteries and put toad engine at 1500- 2000 RPM for a half hour or so. DO YOU HAVE NO ONE NEAR YOU THAT HAS KNOWLEDGE OF MOTORHOME 12 VDC SYSTEM. Given the questions being asked, you really need someone with experience helping you.

NOT enough to allow a 50 mile drive. You need batteries at at least 12.8 VDC (fully charged battery at rest). With charger on-- around 14 VDC.

Certainly it would need to be plugged in. Your generator will power the outlet you plug it into. And, again you would need to secure the 12 VAC ends so they do not jump off while driving.

As long as you insure that the connections can not fall/jump off on the road, no problem running the generator and charging either/ both battery banks. You don't say what amp charger you have, but worse case is borrow a higher output one for the trip.

YES

If the generator is quitting because of low voltage-- have you tried running it with the auxiliary battery charger plugged in?

Yes, if you fully charge the house battery bank and don't run extra 12 VDC stuff such as lights, dash fan, etc, should easily make 50 miles. Options: If you see chassis battery voltage dropping below about 12.1 VDC. stop and use the generator and auxiliary charger to bring the battery back up. OR Fully charger both battery banks and use the battery boost/combine to provide more battery capacity-- more driving time. Again, strange that both 120 VAC and alternator charging have gone out at the same time. But, agree you really need someone who knows coach wiring to help you.

You are not charging from the alternator OR shore power. Again it could be the alternator or it could be the battery isolator or wiring. And, your converter, charger or inverter/charger may or may not be working. As stated earlier, they only charge the house bank on many coaches. What do your house batteries read? And what does your chassis battery read when boost/combine switch is ON?

Actually two answers to your question: VW has not deemed any of their vehicles towable 4 wheels down. Now, this could be for mechanical reasons OR due to VW lawyer conservativeness. Here is a good source of information strictly from a mechanical standpoint: http://www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store.php You can put in your vehicle specifics and see what they recommend.

peegee5344, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Looks like some confusion here: What year Beetle (basically asking old air cooled rear engine or newer front wheel drive)? Manual or automatic transmission?