wolfe10

Thanks, for the review. Do you have a link and $$?

Could be something as simple as suspension settling. Have you laid on the ground next to (not under) the coach in the area where you hear the noise and see if you can pinpoint its origin?

Mike, Please tell us what chassis and coach you have.

Lyle, A quick look brings up two questions: How much weight are you adding to the rear axle/removing from the front axle (remember, that weight is 10+ feet behind the rear axle). Are you overloading the rear axle? Negatively affecting handling by underloading the front axle. With tag axle would be significantly less of an issue. How many front wheel drive vehicles have a "frame" strong enough to support their weight on a subframe-- certainly not in the design specs for the toad. I have not seen one in person, so these are off the cuff observations.

From Nancy, the OP: Thank you for your response on the solenoid and panel comments. This RV is a 1999 Bounder that I have been considering swapping for my 2007 Sunseeker. I want to trade up (?) to a Class A and I've decided that this Bounder has too many problems for me to tackle. I won't work on the Bounder any more, but I will keep looking for a small Class A for a future purchase. Thank you for your time responding to my questions. Nancy

Rich, The isolator you mention is diode-based. Unless the alternator has an external sense terminal connected "downstream" of the isolator, charging voltage will be about .7 VDC LOW due to loss to heat in the diode. And, not sure how it could be used to charge from 120 VAC converter or charger. You sure wouldn't apply converter output to the center post which would back-feed the alternator. At least the only bi-directional systems I am familiar with are solenid-based, not diode-based.

Yup, string or long straight board.

Doug, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your approach sounds like a sound one. Likely you will have to "over bend" as it will try to spring back a little to its current shape. So, may take a couple of times to get it right.

Sounds like your ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) doing its job= normal. Verify you have 120 VAC in the RV and/or locate the ATS and unplug/replug to verify.

Sure, could be. Could be a slow enough leak that recharge would do it. May be a big enough leak that the leak would need to be fixed. But, I would back up a step. Have you verified that the compressor is turning? Fan for the condenser turning? Is there a dryer that you can see? If so, is there a sight glass? Cloudy or clear?

Hopefully someone with first hand information on the campaign will weigh in, but my recollection (it was a long time ago) was that they did not do internal engine repair, just did a modification that would allow you to know that there was excessive blow-by (result of wrist pin wear in cylinder liner). If this is incorrect, I will be happy to delete! That said, if an engine has made it 13+ years and 47,000 miles, I would be comfortable that the wrist pin was OK.

My post (quoted in post immediately above) is 9 1/2 years old. If an engine were to fail due to wrist pin issue, I would expect it to fail well before it reached 13 years old (newest SN within the campaign). Yes, would certainly like to hear of experiences to the contrary.

Nan, Tell us exactly what brand/model solenoid/battery combiner you have. As soon as you mention "board", it is certainly more than a basic solenoid that combines batteries when the ignition is on and separates them when the ignition is off. Another suggestion-- go in and edit your signature to include info on your rig, That will often shorten the guessing time and give you quicker answers.

Nan, With a solenoid-based battery isolator (as opposed to a diode-based battery isolator) you will have two large lugs and either one or two small terminals. One large lug should have chassis battery voltage all the time. When the solenoid is activated, that same voltage will be on the other large lug that goes to the house bank. If one small terminal, it will 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch (to close the solenoid). And ground would be through the metal body of the isolator to coach metal. If two small terminals, one is the 12 VDC positive (as above) and the other one is to chassis ground (likely any clean metal). So, to test: Verify chassis battery voltage at one large lug. Turn on ignition/start the engine and see if that same voltage (probably in high 13's-low 14's) now reads on the other large lug. If so all is good. If not, check for 12 VDC positive to one of the small terminals with your voltmeter ground either to the second small terminal or chassis ground if a single small terminal. If no 12 VDC to the small terminal, disconnect it and use a small jumper from the chassis battery large lug to that 12 VDC positive terminal. If large terminal voltage not the same now, solenoid is bad. If it works now, you need to find out why the ignition signal is not getting to the small positive terminal.

rintreglia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you weighed the wheel positions/axles and set tire pressure for your actual weight? Over/under inflation can cause real handling issues. And, assuming this is the Ford class C chassis, many have found that setting caster to high end of spec or even a little more helps with tracking. Not suggesting that a Safe-T-Plus is not a good addition, but start with the basics.

Send those pictures to: http://sourcerv.com/trailing_arm That is what they do for a living.

Carl, Back home-- 55 degrees. Not bad compared to some of the posts!

Herman, Wait-- is that one or two questions? Did Carl grow up may be one (and I would vote for WHY. He may be having too much fun to do that)? Did he cross country ski in Norway?

There is a "work around"-- standard on many Foretravels I have inspected: Use a second ATS. So with shore power, loads higher than the inverter circuitry can handle are easily handled when on shore power or generator. In the second ATS, shore power/generator (coming from first ATS) is primary. Inverter is on the secondary "IN" leg. Then the second ATS "OUT" is to the sub-panel supplying all circuits that can be powered by the inverter or shore power/generator.

Pretty much standard/off the shelf components. Be aware that this is the 4 bag suspension. Not to be confused with the 8 outboard air bag suspension found on higher end Monaco/HR products. And (small) Cummins 6.7 liter with Allison 2500 transmission. It may also fall under the rear trailing arm issue: https://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/?tab=comments#comment-2686 None of this rules it out, but be aware of what you are looking at.

volcom426, Yes, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For better answers, a good idea to go in and add your coach to your signature (see others on this thread). Yes, wheel type really depends on year/era of the coach.

Eric, Are you planning to drop sun-block shades on all but the north facing direction to protect the coach from UV light and HEAT?

Assume you are interested in New Orleans, LA. What time of year? What is your starting point?

A quick search showed: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Real_ID_Act#External_links Starting October 1, 2020 "every air traveler will need a REAL ID-compliant license, or another acceptable form of identification, for domestic air travel."[6] As of December 2018, 40 states and territories have been certified as compliant, and 16 have been granted extensions.[7]

Yup, commonly called the IGNITION SOLENOID. It is energized by the ignition switch.