wolfe10

Jimlabry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, NO. The coolant system is closed in the front of the coach, so you need to find the leak. Start with the dash heater core and hoses into it.

Phil, Find your nearest commercial Michelin Advantage RV tire dealer. Go to www.michelinrvtires.com and enter your zip code in the dealer locator. The dealers will be listed in the order closest to your location. Select the dealer that best suits your tire needs. NOTE: To purchase Michelin or BF Goodrich tires for your light truck or passenger car, you must use an authorized commercial Michelin dealer that sells all three types of tires: commercial truck, light truck, and passenger car AND that accepts the Michelin Advantage Program. For more information, go to: https://site.fmca.com/fmca-quicklinks. Click on "Michelin Instructions". Alternatively, with questions regarding the Michelin Advantage Program please call the FMCA Membership Department at 800-543-3622.

dlevendofsle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Most of these ATS overheats are caused by lose connections. A very good idea to tighten all the connections annually. A 3 minute job that can save a lot of problems. Yes, with the shore power disconnected and generator off. Also, depending on your coach's wiring, inverter off.

If the valve stem on the rear dual inner faces in, should not be a problem to screw on the TPMS sensor. Just need to move vehicle to that the valve stem faces toward the back so you can access it.

Joe, Yes, particularly with some floor plans there is a significant side to side imbalance. Large galley slides are poster children for this-- the weight of the slide, appliances, cabinets, cookware and dinner ware, etc all on one side. Offset by a recliner. Also, out of spec ride height can move significant weight from side to side.

Correct. Here is one (a latching relay): https://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Water_pump_controllers/Water_Pump_Control Start by checking near the pump itself.

pwick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Easiest/most common way to keep the toad battery charged is with a charge line from your coach's chassis battery. From coach chassis battery: Inline fuse, 8 gauge wire to tow electrical connection, 8 gauge wire from there to toad battery with fuse just before battery (yes, important to have fuse at both ends, since both batteries are "hot". Plus 8 gauge wire from toad negative to chassis ground on coach. This will charge the toad battery any time the coach chassis battery is charged (actually, will just insure that the voltage is the same). If you want to only have the toad battery charged while the coach engine is running, just run this through a relay that is turned on by an ignition hot source in the coach. You do NOT need a separate charger.

Yes, fluid and filter change in an Allison 3000 transmission takes 19 quarts. Most economic way to go is a 5 gallon pail of Transynd. That leaves you 1 quart left over.

Yes, for more information on Important Safety Issue: Monaco, HR & Safari Chassis: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Ya, this one has run well off track. Let's close this one out.

Likely, but ask the operator of the scale.

Mark, You are most fortunate-- certainly not the norm.

I made absolutely no statement about what parts I use-- merely that there are a number of choices out there. And, having run large automobile dealerships for a career, I can assure you that an owner who knows what he is doing does a better job than 90% of techs out there. The owner CARES. Most techs are on the clock. Ever see a tech scrub the bottom of the transmission before servicing to make sure no dirt get in? And, it is amazing how many times the oil level is under or overfilled when serviced by a tech. Is a tech superior to an owner who does not know what they are doing-- ABSOLUTELY.

There are many choices in replacement parts: Replace with OEM new Replace with OEM reman Replace by someone else's reman of an OEM component Replace with "replaces" ..... (read that Chinese knockoff) Replace with good used

Excellent. Thanks for the update.

I can see where a steerable tag would change things while driving, but am surprised it would change turning radius compared with liftable tag. Compared with non-lifting tag-- certainly understand.

Cut angle refers to how many degrees to either side of straight ahead the front wheels can turn. Older coaches had cut angles in the med 40 degrees. Some newer ones have 55 degree cut angle. BIG difference in turning radius!

Yes, CUT-ANGLE as well as WHEELBASE determine turning radius. Of course overhang must also be considered if obstructions are taller than a low curb.

And, do a close up of the output shaft (toward transmission from U joint). See if there is a "clean oil" trail.

And, if a wide area is coated with oil, you may need to use a degreaser (aluminum friendly recommended) to clean it up enough to identify the actual source of the leak.

WAY past my pay grade. My only input on the new website was to have the designers use DIAL-UP SPEED and verify that the website "worked", as many members access the site from slow speed access points while on the road.

jeslaughter, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not easy to find-- I had to ask as well. After you log in, click on the "fuel gauge-looking icon" on the right, next to top. It is called Member Dashboard. Membership directory is at the top in the blue line.

Here is an excerpt from that article: Class B Motorhome: Class B motorhomes are at the opposite end of the spectrum from Class A motorhomes and are basically passenger vans that have been converted for use as a motorhome and feature a raised roof for more headroom. Class B vans are compact and have minimal amenities due to the lack of room but are generally equipped with a small refrigerator, water heater, sink and sleeping facilities. They offer the ability to travel and park anywhere due to their compact size and offer better fuel economy than their larger siblings. They are also easier to drive than the larger motorhomes so you don’t need a towed vehicle to serve as a dingy when sightseeing or shopping. Due to their limited size, Class Bs are best limited to use by 2 persons. A popular twist are the Class B+ motorhomes which are becoming increasingly popular. Class B+ coaches are a bit taller and feature a cab-over section for additional space, typically used as a sleeping berth or an entertainment center. Class B+ motorhomes often use stretched frames so it’s common to see units as long as 30’, which greatly improves interior space. Some class B+ motorhomes are capable of handling four persons comfortably. Class C Motorhomes: Class C motorhomes, sometimes known as mini-motorhomes, are built on a cutaway chassis which includes the front cab of a van or pickup truck with open frame rails behind the cab, which are stretched to accommodate various lengths of coaches. The coach builder then builds the coach on those frame rails and blends it to the cab. The most popular chassis currently used are the Ford E350 or E450 series although other brands and models are also used. The Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis has also found recent popularity in smaller coaches due to its compact and fuel efficient diesel engine. Class Cs are easily recognized by their large cab-over section, which is typically used as sleeping space. Class C motorhomes have come a long way since the early days and many Class C motorhomes now have slide-outs and feature the latest features and amenities. The lighter chassis of a class C limits the weight of your towed vehicle so that is a consideration when choosing a class C. They have been typically used as entry level motorhomes for buyers who need sleeping space for large families but recent advances in Class A motorhomes that offer bunk bed floor plans has taken away some of those sales. A Class C is smaller and drives more like a large van, which may be preferable to some drivers but many cockpit areas are cramped and can be hard to access from the motorhome’s interior, especially for tall persons. Basement storage space is much smaller than that in a Class A but they are also less expensive than Class A motorhomes so if your budget is limited a Class C may be your best choice. Super C Motorhomes: Super C motorhomes are still a Class C coach except they use a medium duty truck chassis such as supplied by Freightliner or International. These coaches are powered by diesel engines and are larger in size. Larger basement compartments offer plenty of room for cargo space, which is typically lacking in a smaller gasoline powered Class C, and have higher towing capacity. A Super C offers the ultimate driving experience due to the extended front axle compared to a Class A coach’s forward cab design but has less interior room than a Class A. Super C coaches range from entry level 32’ coaches up to extreme 45’ 600 HP luxury coaches. One popular variation is the Toy Hauler, which includes a large rear garage for hauling motorcycles, ATVs or other cargo. Prices range accordingly

Mark, You might want to separate out insurance and licensing as that really varies by state and even location within a state. Would also suggest stating age/miles on the rig, as maintenance costs on a 2 year old coach will be different than on a 12 year old coach. Also, costs are very different for those who do their own work vs those who pay to have everything done. Some set aside $XX per year toward tire replacement, some only count that in the year they re replaced. Said another way, there are a LOT of variables.