wolfe10

Be aware that the FMCA towing guide reflects what the vehicle manufacturer says about towability four wheels down. So, it is "tainted". Some vehicles that are towable from a mechanical standpoint may not be deemed towable by the manufacturer, because corporate lawyers often hold sway over engineers when it comes to striking those that could be towed (from a mechanical standpoint) because of liability or warranty rears. For many years, the Mazda PU and Ford Ranger were mechanically the same, yet Mazda never recommended flat towing, while the exact same Ford did. Heck, for 2018, some models of Honda Civics are deemed towable, while others that are mechanically exactly the same are not-- likely just a breakdown in corporate communication. And, sometimes, the engineers have done insufficient testing of flat towabilty-- it represents such a small percent of market, that it is not really subject to the same tough standards. When was the last time you saw or heard of a Jeep engineer testing a new product by flat towing it behind a motorhome. And, towing behind a motorhome is different than flat towing behind, say, a PU, as the tow vehicle's overhang leads to very different issues.

A quick major change in voltage often indicates a loose or corroded connection. Second would be to fully charge and load test the batteries. Also, for fluctuations in voltage from the alternator, check carefully if you have a SENSE terminal/wire from chassis battery side of the battery isolator to the alternator. They are small gauge wires and are easily damaged. Also, the Beaver Marquis will NOT have a Caterpillar 3126. It will have a larger Caterpillar engine-- one over 10 liters, not 7.2 liters.

Excellent, Richard. One minor comment: The tire manufacturer's inflation tables establish the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. Said another way, if weight is higher, one moves to the next (higher) PSI column. So, I would suggest that the 5-10% that many of us add to the "minimum PSI for a given weight" has merit. Merit because it can compensate for colder temperatures (which by physics means lower pressure), for added weight (full tanks for example), and also for a a safety factor (better to not have a tire running at its bare minimum PSI).

Many newer coaches use 12 VDC for the electronic thermostat. So, check battery voltage.

Yes, it does seem to have wandered off-track and degraded to personal comments/attacks. Closed.

Yes, are you talking about your hydraulic jacks or power steering/brake boost?

Just a suggestion, but if you want specific CG information, better to start a new thread. Very few will see it under a "camping without a toad" thread.

Bswdds, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what inverter/CHARGER you have. That will facilitate much more accurate replies.

For CG advice, might want to start a separate thread. Not likely to have many read it under a slide-canopy-water-snow thread. Thanks. Brett

Yes, the Caterpillar ECM can be configured several ways in terms of activation of the exhaust brake. Manual is one-- only comes on when the electric switch for the PacBrake is turned on. Latch-- Comes on when you step on the service brakes. Stays on until you step on the throttle whether you remain on the brake pedal or not. There is one other choice, but I don't have my manuals handy right now. Any Caterpillar dealer could tell you how yours is configured in 5 minutes by plugging into the diagnostic plug.

Bill Edwards contact info: http://community.fmca.com/profile/22868-rsbilledwards/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjExNDgxLCJpZF8yIjo4OTA4NX0= To send him a message, click on the "envelope". One of two issues: your coach has a brake signal to the Caterpillar ECM AND, repeat AND, it has been programmed for LATCH MODE (exhaust brake comes on when service brake is applies and stays on until the throttle is applied) OR you have an after-market brake relay that does much the same thing. Yes, you could have a relay sticking causing this as well.

Joe, So, the actual charge was correct?

OK, closing this one down.

Yes, you will want to check with Monaco for options for the hydraulic fluid, as you said this is the hydraulic system cooler, not transmission cooler. While the system in empty, be sure to change the hydraulic filter(s).

The "not working" list sounds like a problem with the 12 VDC side of the electrical system. Verify that your "salesman switch" is ON (usually located near the entrance door). Second would be to check battery voltage, then fuses between the batteries and 12 VDC fuse panel.

Yes, so please start a new topic for any discussion not related to the original. Once new topics are interwoven with the original separating them is extremely difficult. Thanks.

If you can access the very front of your coach (from the front if your coach "nose" opens), it should be on the passenger's side. Or look up from where the drip hits the ground as another starting point.

Jimlabry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, NO. The coolant system is closed in the front of the coach, so you need to find the leak. Start with the dash heater core and hoses into it.

Phil, Find your nearest commercial Michelin Advantage RV tire dealer. Go to www.michelinrvtires.com and enter your zip code in the dealer locator. The dealers will be listed in the order closest to your location. Select the dealer that best suits your tire needs. NOTE: To purchase Michelin or BF Goodrich tires for your light truck or passenger car, you must use an authorized commercial Michelin dealer that sells all three types of tires: commercial truck, light truck, and passenger car AND that accepts the Michelin Advantage Program. For more information, go to: https://site.fmca.com/fmca-quicklinks. Click on "Michelin Instructions". Alternatively, with questions regarding the Michelin Advantage Program please call the FMCA Membership Department at 800-543-3622.

dlevendofsle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Most of these ATS overheats are caused by lose connections. A very good idea to tighten all the connections annually. A 3 minute job that can save a lot of problems. Yes, with the shore power disconnected and generator off. Also, depending on your coach's wiring, inverter off.

If the valve stem on the rear dual inner faces in, should not be a problem to screw on the TPMS sensor. Just need to move vehicle to that the valve stem faces toward the back so you can access it.

Joe, Yes, particularly with some floor plans there is a significant side to side imbalance. Large galley slides are poster children for this-- the weight of the slide, appliances, cabinets, cookware and dinner ware, etc all on one side. Offset by a recliner. Also, out of spec ride height can move significant weight from side to side.

Correct. Here is one (a latching relay): https://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Water_pump_controllers/Water_Pump_Control Start by checking near the pump itself.

pwick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Easiest/most common way to keep the toad battery charged is with a charge line from your coach's chassis battery. From coach chassis battery: Inline fuse, 8 gauge wire to tow electrical connection, 8 gauge wire from there to toad battery with fuse just before battery (yes, important to have fuse at both ends, since both batteries are "hot". Plus 8 gauge wire from toad negative to chassis ground on coach. This will charge the toad battery any time the coach chassis battery is charged (actually, will just insure that the voltage is the same). If you want to only have the toad battery charged while the coach engine is running, just run this through a relay that is turned on by an ignition hot source in the coach. You do NOT need a separate charger.

Yes, fluid and filter change in an Allison 3000 transmission takes 19 quarts. Most economic way to go is a 5 gallon pail of Transynd. That leaves you 1 quart left over.