wolfe10

Well, "one of us is". The Captain (me) IS. The Admiral (Dianne) is NOT. Even U.S. Customs understands the "ranking" on our boat-- another story!

Got to love a tail wind! Sadly, in a sailboat, that (almost) NEVER happens. Said another way, if the wind is not on your nose, you are going the wrong way!

Agree with others, if you do not have records of "what was done when", EVERYTHING needs to be serviced. That includes coolant change, hydraulic filters and perhaps fluid change, etc. Again go through your Freightliner maintenance manual and play catch up.

Your Freightliner chassis manual should outline other work needed. And, at 82k mi, you should already have done the initial valve adjustment. Suggest a Caterpillar dealer for that.

Byron, I agree. Hence my statement above: " But, if not a clear bowl where you could see contamination, a good idea to occasionally drain a small amount just to verify-- even if you have a "water in fuel" sensor in the filter. " And about that many years of diesel experience, and many of those in the marine industry where contaminated fuel was a much bigger issue. Marine environments, pretty much by definition are "high humidity" and many boats sit/store fuel for years at a time. Lead to a "cottage industry" of FUEL POLISHING.

Byron, As long as you COULD SEE water of dirt (i.e. the clear bowl style) he is fine as long as he checks it visually periodically. Best time is the next time you stop after filling the diesel tank. But, if not a clear bowl where you could see contamination, a good idea to occasionally drain a small amount just to verify-- even if you have a "water in fuel" sensor in the filter.

Excellent. Thanks for letting us know the (easy) solution.

Joe, I believe you mean if there is insufficient CASTER the wheel will not return to center with as much authority. Incorrect camber would cause wear on the inside or outside of the tire.

Does your filter have a "water in fuel" sensor? If so, draining frequently is less critical. Proper draining procedure: With engine OFF, position a clear glass jar under the drain. Open it long enough to allow any water or dirt to drain/until clear diesel comes out. If the filter is mounted high, best to do this with a full fuel tank and/or nose of coach UPHILL. This insures that the drain doesn't turn into an "inlet" allowing air in and fuel draining back to tank.

Think we may be straying from the original topic!

For checking tire pressure on duals, a "dual foot tire gauge" is needed. Google it and/or go to any auto parts house. This is ASSUMING that your gauge will not adequately contact the tire valve.

Would be interested in a picture of a DOT number indicating one that was less than 14 years old. Could one be for sale-- guess so, but a REALLY old one.

If engine idle speed is too high, the transmission will do that. At least that is the simplest explanation.

brlewis01, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While it is probably a moot point since they need to be replaced due to uneven wear, there WILL BE a full DOT number on the tires. But it might be facing inboard. The full number with oval with date code is only on one sidewall of each tire. I am not familiar with Pirelli's in that size, so no comment on them as a choice. Assume you have also looked at the FMCA price for Continental.

Good article, BUT, that is really ancient history. Those tires have not been made 14 years! Sure hope NO 14 year old tires of any make or quality are still on the road.

Works OK on my computer.

Kawaski engine in an Onan generator??? Please post what Onan generator you have. And, as a general statement, yes all coolants need to be changed. But their effective life varies quite a lot depending on coolant chemistry. And, if OE coolant, follow your equipment manufacturer's maintenance schedule. If it has been changed, follow the maintenance schedule of the coolant manufacturer.

klmpj, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is a manual or automatic?

Correct. If there is not much tire wear on the current front Firestones (i.e. their revolutions per mile will be close to that of new Firestones), buy two new Firestones for the back (other side). Then whatever brand you want in front. Not an absolute, but I prefer newer/better tires in front where a blow out could be much more dangerous than a rear blow out.

No problem having different tires/brands front vs back. And, I would NOT pair the Firestones on one side in back with another brand on the other side. Two reasons: rolling radius/revolutions per mile is unlikely to be the same and in a panic stop or icy conditions, they will likely have different traction. And, be sure to verify that the rolling radius/circumference of the current Firestones are close to those of the new ones (not too worn).

Yes, any place that deals in OTR trucks will have DOT approved air valves. Drain air. Remove old one. Take it in to match threads/size.

OK, please suggest a better designation to differentiate between: "Towing-- towing behind motorhome" AND "Towing 5th wheel or trailer"

No question, you need to find out (even if it is from Safety-kleen) exactly what type of coolant you have. Color is not a fool-proof determinant of coolant chemistry. The dealership has to have a Safety-kleen part number for that drum of coolant. And an answer that they don't know what kind of coolant they installed is really scary (either lack of knowledge or lack of caring!).

Just a suggestion, but you will probably get better feedback by dividing the questions and posting them in the appropriate area (such as "electric" and "tire").

If the Allison shift pad is not illuminated unplug and properly seat the connections at the shift pad and also the two gang plugs at the Allison ECM. Your IGNITION SOLENOID is working since the dash idiot lights work. Another easy test for this is that the dash HVAC fan is working (normally wired to only work with the ignition on). There are TWO fuses to the Allison ECM-- one for memory and one for when it is "working". Check that both are hot.