wolfe10

2013tiffin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Short answer is to follow your engine manufacturer's advice. Most recommend turning them OFF after a suitable cool-down period. The cool down period can be from zero seconds (pulled into CG, registered and drove to site to 4-5 minutes in the summer if you pull into a scenic overlook after climbing a long grade in 100 degrees F temperature. What does your Cummins manual for your engine suggest?

And, even without a battery "'combine" switch being on, there are parasitic loads on the chassis batter. Certainly, the engine ECU and likely the radio memory are normally on the chassis battery.

khutton, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. 6-8 weeks with any parasitic draw will assuredly discharge batteries. I would recommend two things: Fully charge the batteries and have them load tested (free at any place that sells batteries). Make sure they are fully charged first. Then, use an ammeter to check for draw with the salesman switch OFF (actually any battery disconnect switch turned to OFF). On many coaches there are still things that remain "on" even with switches off. Things like PC board for refrigerator, propane detectors, radio memory, etc.

Mike, Compare brass with the oil pan metal to see if they are "galvanically close". OK if the brass is the anode, but sure don't want the pan to sacrifice itself to protect the plug: https://www.pemnet.com/design_info/galvanic-corrosion/

Yes, different A/C manufacturers have different specs for compressing the roof gasket. Some do provide torque specs, others just tell you how much to compress the gasket. And over-torquing is as likely to leak as under-torquing. Bottom line-- follow the instructions for YOUR A/C.

And, the problem is even worse in the off-shore sailing business. Unlikely 5% of those assembling them have ever been off-shore in one of the products they build. Lines not fairlead, winch self tailers that are installed such that they strip line overboard. Hawse pipe is not lined up with the anchor locker-- easily discerned if one fits chain over the windlass gypsy......

Good idea, Bruce. Rough measure left/right placement. Install track bar (aka panhard rod). Start engine and put coach at proper ride height. Re-measure left/right placement and re-adjust if needed. Loosen axle U bolts and move them (if needed) to "neutral position". Looking at the wear on the OE bushings may give you an indication of placement.

Yup, best to use a car wash SOAP, not detergent such as Dawn. Dawn is great for cutting grease (AND removing wax).

Rich, Yes, with jacks lifting weight off the axle, you may have to use a floor jack to lift one side of the axle or the other to get exact alignment. Same as when dropping the axle to add captive caster shims. But, the axle with a floor jack is not that hard to muscle. I know-- you muscle and have Lois line up and start the second bolt. See how easy it is to get in trouble!

That is how I change the transmission fluid on our DP-- 5 gallon pail of Transynd on a 6' ladder. No mess.

A funnel with 4' or so of clear PVC hose would work just fine. Store in a zip lock to keep it clean.

Dianne said I should give you a SIGN. Then she thought better of it and said don't.

Bill, Sounds like a great trip. For those looking for an easy route to bypass El Paso (I 10 to I 10)-- works east or westbound: Here are directions headed west, but again they are easily reversible. I 10 west Right/north on 375 (loop) Right/north on U.S. 54 Left/north on MLK Blvd which is Texas FM3255 which turns into NM 213 as you cross into NM. Left/west on NM404 back to I 10. Completely misses El Paso and 404 goes through a cut in the mountains, not over them like 375/transmountain. Gentle grades, little traffic.

Access from or to I10 east or west is no big deal.

Never stayed in that Pontchartrain Landing but have spend a number of nights next door at Seabrook Marine when moving the sail boat from Texas to the Bahamas. Would consider the park and marine safe. I would NOT walk through the neighborhoods, nor is it in walking distance to the French Quarter. From park to Jackson Square is a little over 6 miles.

Agree, check with Cummins/Onan OR check in your Onan owners manual. Quite possible that the delay is to give the glow plugs time to heat up as well as the electric fuel pump to run.

I (and I think most RV techs) would recommend AGAINST caulking around the gasket. If in good shape and properly tensioned, they work just fine.

Yes, if you see a "water path" where the wires go through, seal that. Definitely properly torque the unit--- in most cases the spec is 50% compression on the gasket. Yes, it is easy to overtighten it, so go with Coleman's recommendation.

f227326, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Depends on what year it is. As an FMCA member, log into the main FMCA Site. Under "Magazine" you will find towing guides going all the way back to 1999. Download the year model of your Tarus and see.

Buc-ees is, at least right now, one of the least expensive places in Texas to buy diesel. And, while I guess there could be exceptions, if a station is the least expensive in the area, they generally move a LOT of volume. Poster child for that is the HEB grocery store in Del Rio (on U.S. 90 between San Antonio and Alpine/Big Bend). Their fuel station generally has several 18 wheelers at a time filling up there.

No problem on Gas Buddy. Once the page opens (regular is the default), just click on diesel.

Is this an absorption refrigerator or domestic/house-type refrigerator?

Still could be air flow issue. Looking up in the outside access door, is there the proper (small) space between outer wall and refrigerator condenser fins? Too much gap will allow turbulence, which degrades cooing ability on any heat source. Is roof top vent in place and in reasonable condition?

cdelcast, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully, someone with a similar rig will respond. In the meantime, what problem are you experiencing-- perhaps we can help with that?

If you do find it a roof-top item, you may need to make a "wind deflector". I had to do that on one of our coaches, as the Wingard antenna was the noise maker. Just took a 6" by 18" piece of aluminum (any box store) and bent a 30 degree angle in one inch of the 6" and then screwed it to the roof (with proper sealant).