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wolfe10

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Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. wolfe10
    Can you identify the source of the leak? Some are very easy to fix, others require a transmission or chassis shop. Places to look are where the dip stick tube goes in (easy) and on the other side where the "alternate dip stick location" now a dead plug is located. Also drive shaft end and engine end (bell housing). Assume you are keeping the fluid level full until the leak is addressed.
  2. wolfe10
    Carl, Can you PM me a link or know what month it was run. Kind of surprised it is not a C (Super C). We have friends with a Super C built on a Kenworth chassis. Let's not take the discussion of track.
  3. wolfe10
    EMS is generally used to control loads/shed loads when you are on limited power sources. Surge protectors are totally unrelated beasts-- and depending on brand/price provide some surge protection while higher end ones also monitor power (polarity, ground, voltage, etc).
  4. wolfe10
    Rich posted this on your other, duplicate thread which I will delete so we only have one discussion on this issue: Posted 1 hour ago Try this link for some locations that might have them. https://www.google.com/search?q=8+point+torx+bit&rlz=1C1VFKB_enUS711US716&oq=8+point+torx+bit&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.23127j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Lowes Rich.
  5. wolfe10
    Guess I need an education here-- Not aware of any Class B's longer than a long WB van.
  6. wolfe10
    Please, let's get back to the topic-- showering in a Class B and water heater capacity. Justification of choices between A's, B's and C's should not be a part of this. Let's not go off on a tangent here. Thanks.
  7. wolfe10
    Mark, Sorry, I don't know the answer to that. Most frequently it is off the hoses that go to the dash heater core. The further back the water heater is located on a Class B, the less likely it would be because of the extra hose runs.
  8. wolfe10
    RV water heaters come with up to THREE sources of heating: 120 VAC Propane Motor-aid (a circuit off the main engine that circulates through the water heater to provide hot water while/after driving). VERY handy. Looking way back, our 1993 Foretravel had this additional heat source.
  9. wolfe10
    Might be a good idea for someone to start a "Travel Routes To Perry" as a new topic, as many will be interested and unlikely to find it here in the sewer thread. Thanks.
  10. wolfe10
    I agree, checking the tanks for signs of water or worse white powder (desiccant broken down) is a very good idea. Basically a "report card" on the functionality of the air dryer. I would restate the last sentence: "Hydraulic braking systems do not have this problem." There are coaches with air suspension and hydraulic brakes. Their air systems have the same compressor, dryer and tank arrangements as those with air brakes. Our 2003 Alpine 38' was an example of just such a set up. And, yes there are a few coaches without air dryers. On these much more frequent tank draining is needed.
  11. wolfe10
    mhandley99 (sorry, don't know whether you are Mike, Barb or Buddy). Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Safe-T-Plus-- one of the best steering dampeners/"return to center" after a turn. But, would only add this one last and only after proper alignment (with caster set at high end of spec) and toe-in to high end of spec) and the tracking still left something to be desired. Sumo springs-- really depends on actual axle weights vs GAWR's. Said another way, if you are well under axle capacities, probably not where I would start. If you are close to axle capacities, then an excellent addition. Rear track bar-- probably where I would start-- an excellent help with handling. You did not mention shocks-- Koni FSD's are expensive, but will both help soften the ride AND give better handling (two sets of valves allow for both). CHF a good idea, but insure that the links line up properly of use aftermarket ones.
  12. wolfe10
    Have you tried Monaco support to see what provides power to the VIM (fuse and its location). Generally it will be a fuse on an ignition hot fuse/breaker. Assume all other things that only work with ignition on such as dash HVAC fan work OK. If not, the ignition solenoid is the first suspect.
  13. wolfe10
    Do you recall who posted after Carl (manholt) post yesterday morning? That is the last one I see.
  14. wolfe10
    OK, we seem to have strayed from the original topic-- how a motorhome "gains weight" and how to address it. If anyone wants to discuss state inspections, etc, probably best to start a new topic under "Laws and Legislative Action". Thanks.
  15. wolfe10
    Done.
  16. wolfe10
    Normal, who is accused of being normal?
  17. wolfe10
    Carl, Wonder if this is something on your computer-- my screen still shows all at "normal" size.
  18. wolfe10
    Kind of dependent on where it is placed. Not many will look in the engineroom, or on a place on a frame rail that is not visible.
  19. wolfe10
    You might post what area you are in, age of children and interests of you and your family.
  20. wolfe10
    I agree. That is the place to start. Make sure that between the chassis metal (ground) and the large-gauge wire from house battery positive is 12 VDC. Also, that you did not forget one of the smaller gauge wires.
  21. wolfe10
    rlaird, Your chassis maker specs and installs the cooling system. Check with them (Freightliner or Spartan most likely) for system capacity.
  22. wolfe10
    Correct-- 30 amp RV outlets are 120 VAC, not 240. So ONE Hot, one neutral and one ground. Yes, many newer home dryer outlets do have a neutral, but many older ones DO NOT (have two hots and a ground). Wiring an RV outlet to one of these older connections will "let the smoke out" of many systems in an RV, because they are 240 VAC. So, with a newer dryer outlet AND a smart electrician who connects to only one hot and the neutral and ground, it can be done. Otherwise...poooooffff. 50 amp RV outlets ARE 240 (two hots, a neutral and a ground).
  23. wolfe10
    OK, ya, let's get this one back on- topic. Thanks.
  24. wolfe10
    Both are good quality filters, as are Wix and NAPA Gold (made by Wix)
  25. wolfe10
    When evaluating the cost-effectiveness, first question is how many days a year do you dry camp? For those who dry camp quite a bit, a good solar array and high end controller can pay for themselves. If you mostly stay in CG's with power, pretty much a waste of $$.
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