wolfe10

Agree. And if any miles on the current oil, I would just use this opportunity to do normal oil and filter. If it has been run with ATF in it, perhaps with the drain plug out, pour a quart of new oil through it to flush a little more of the "mixed oil" out.

$100 for labor isn't too bad. But, changing fluid (Transynd) and filters (filter kit from Allison) is not difficult. And most owners will do a better job than most techs. Owners will carefully clean the bottom of the transmission to keep dirt out. They will use an inch-lb torque wrench to tighten filter covers and insure that they don't get dirt in when adding new fluid. All you need to buy (for an Allison 3000 anyway-- you don't say what transmission you have ) is a 5 gallon pail of Transynd (you will use all but 1 quart) and the filter kit. Both from any Allison dealer for your transmission serial number.

What chassis? That will tell us how much clearance you need. But, to answer your question, yes, if driving the duals up on boards, all tires need to be supported.

Assume he means BASE PLATE. Yes, on some Jeeps, might use a bumper kit [attach to bumper rather than to other vehicle structural element(s)].

If the wetness is at or near a joint, suspect the joint. If in the middle of a hose/pipe, suspect condensation. Yes, with plastic pipes, look carefully for a crack.

Yes, could be condensation. If the temperature of the cold water plumbing is below the dew point of the air INSIDE the coach, it will sweat. Might be worth a couple of bucks of pipe insulation from any box store to slip over the pipes if you find yourself in this condition (high humidity inside with cold water coming in) very often.

The hydroboost system is completely separate from the brake fluid. Hydroboost uses ATF Dexron (at least on our 1997 Safari Sahara). The master cylinder is up front, driver's wheel well. It takes regular brake fluid (DOT III). Best procedure is to suck all the fluid out of the master cylinder. Yes, adding fluid is a pain, at least on ours, as the master cylinder had very little clearance to the top of the wheel well. Have seen some with a remote reservoir accessed from the front hood area. Fill master cylinder, then use a small screwdriver to "stir". Suck it out. Repeat until what you remove is CLEAR. The idea is to NOT run the dirty hydrated brake fluid through the master cylinder, lines and calipers. Once the master cylinder if full of clean, clear new brake fluid, go to the right rear (furthest wheel position) and use a suction pump with clear plastic hose to suck out old fluid until it is clear. I have a 50 year old manual transmission pump and a couple of "reducers" with the last clear plastic hose sized to fit snugly on the caliper bleed screws. Continue to top off master cylinder. Then left rear, right front and lastly left front. This will completely change fluid WITHOUT stressing the master cylinder seals. Do this every 2-3 years-- brake fluid is cheap. Master cylinders and calipers are NOT.

Doug, Minor correction to "research" recommendation: Each tire on an axle is inflated to the same PSI BASED ON THE HEAVIER WHEEL POSITION ON THAT AXLE. Agree, it is a good idea to weight and then make the decision based on how "over-inflated" the 65/80 is.

Actually, insufficient CASTER will cause a vehicle to track "less well". Setting caster to the higher end of spec will help with straight line tracking and also wheel return to center after a turn.

No need to do it all at one time. Replace the shocks and reevaluate.

Sooooo, does that mean she thinks you are "a half a bubble out of plumb"?

A generalization, but with most fuse boxes, the largest wire will be from/toward the battery, with smaller wires "downstream" of the fuses supplying individual circuits.

Click on the member's name on the left side of their post. On new page, click on "Message" to send a Private Message.

To Wayne's list, I would add: Be sure to use non-scented bleach. After bleach has been in the tank for an hour, turn on pump and open each faucet (both hot and cold) and run until you smell bleach. It will take awhile on the hot side because of the water heater. This will insure that all lines are disinfected as well. Sometimes takes a couple of rinses to remove chlorine smell.

I agree with desertdeals69, a residential refrigerator is not hooked up to your 12 VDC system. Check things like propane detector, CO detector, etc. They often are hooked to the battery side of the disconnect switch. Also, verify that your inverter is turned OFF (i.e. is not in standby mode).

You need to open it up and dry it out completely. Sealing it with moisture inside is a sure fire way to end up with both mold and dry rot. If any of the roof structure has already started to dry rot, cut out the bad parts and replace/sister the structural elements and replace any compromised decking. I don't know how anyone can give an accurate estimate until you know the extent of the water intrusion and possible damage. And, suggest you modify your signature to reflect what coach you have-- others may have run into the same issue.

Great to see a family playing together. Becoming less common these days. And, heck, most kids you see in vehicles are on their phones/games so they never see the country anyway. These will be memories both you and the kids will cherish.

Yup: Drink 6, eat 4m, sleep 2. Good rules for a motorhome (Yes, if outside, numbers increase to the size of the bar and skill of the cooks).

nmeremianin. Wow, looks like you and your family are really enjoying the RV'ing experience.

Yup, you did nothing wrong. Fix easy and inexpensive.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Safari had a number of different chassis in 2001, both gasoline and diesel. And also different suspensions in their diesel coaches. So, the more information you give us the better we can help.

Thanks for the update.

InTheDogHouse, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Glad you are where many of us have been for a LONG time--InTheDogHouse . Have you confirmed with Michelin that indeed they have ceased production, vs just "out of stock". Give them a call: Michelin 866-866-6605

For those not familiar with Gaffney SC, it is where the Freightliner RV chassis (and a few other things) are built. It is also a/the premier service center for Freightliner chassis RV's. Their website: https://www.freightlinerchassis.com/ For information on your Freightliner XC chassis (build sheet for your chassis): https://www.fcccrv.com/coaches/?chassis_type=XC For service there on your RV: https://www.fcccrv.com/parts-and-service/factory-service-center/

MPG under sail= infinite.