wolfe10

I and, I suspect many others would question that for three reasons: 1. Would hate to be in an accident where stopping 15' sooner would avoid it. And, physics says: same weight, more braking, stops shorter. 2. Would hate to be involved in an accident and it be found that I was operating illegally in that state. 3. Would really hate to be involved in an accident and have the other guy's attorney point out that our vehicles did not meet one of the state's important safety requirements.

Just a quick reminder, as with most forums, discussion of legal issues is not permitted. Would rather keep this thread open, so, let's stay within the Forum guidelines. Thanks.

Actually, that second sentence says it all. Marketing trumps engineering. Got to believe there are a lot of times that the engineers just bite their tongue as some of the things the sales guys/customers want to do on their chassis.

Ya, but even Moderators get to play occasionally. After all, it was Cinco de Mayo!

You are absolutely correct, all but the wiring can be moved (at least when the Roadmaster factory moved mine, they used new wiring-- said too many issues with assuming old wiring was good) from one to another. But, there is a reasonable amount of labor involved. So, for those who choose a new toad every year or two two different vehicles (some tow a car or off road vehicle depending on where they are headed) there are other choices that may make more sense.

Actually, that would be WHINE at the pump and NEED WINE immediately there after.

Herman, But, at over 70, the fuel consumption would make the driver whine at the pump!

With coach loaded as YOU go down the road (including tanks, people and gear) use the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the Michelin inflation table to determine the MINIUM PSI for a given weight. All tires on that axle inflated based on the heavier wheel position. Most add 5-10 PSI to the MINIMUM. If you only have axle weights, add a little more for left/right imbalance. If you know left/right is way out of balance (example galley slide on one side with only a recliner on the other side) add even more to the minimum.

The Invisibrake is an excellent choice (we have had them on our last two toads) IF you will be keeping the toad for awhile. Said another way, if you change cars often, you would probably want a more "portable" system. That is why Roadmaster Corp makes several typed of toad brakes-- on single type fits everyone's needs.

Get some wide blue tape (so it will not leave a residue). Start taping off the "likely suspects". BTW, mirrors often contribute to this.

arthur, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis you have and whether a Class A or C. Your answer will likely depend on chassis rather than "house".

You will want to figure out what tripped the 30 amp breaker. Was this the coach's main breaker or a breaker dedicated to the inverter/charger?

A quick look for that gauge did not show it as a dual foot gauge. Assume you added that for checking rear duals.

Yes, we need to know if you have an inverter (inverter only) in which case you will have a separate converter OR do you have an inverter/charger (one unit that does both). Since yours is a 2013, I ASSUMED (perhaps incorrectly) that you have an inverter/charger.

On the main FMCA Website, under Magazine is a year by year list from the vehicle manufacturers of what they deem towable 4 wheels down. Yes, in some cases the "not to recommend for towing" is a legal/warranty decision, not a mechanical one. But, it will give you a good starting place.

btulskie, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. If 120 VAC is not reaching the inverter/charger, that is exactly what would happen. So, assuming you have all other 120 VAC things working when on shore power (or generator for that matter) except proper operation of the inverter/charger, start by flipping OFF and back ON the breaker on the main 120 VAC breaker panel for the inverter. If that doesn't correct it, there is a fuse in most of the inverter/chargers that may be bad. Tell us exactly what inverter/charger you have and perhaps we can tell you where to check for the fuse.

About all I would do for a one to two month stay is have the diesel tank topped off to reduce condensation and since it will be in the summer, add a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF to prevent algae growth. Cover tires if possible. Enjoy your stay.

Yes, probably worth checking against a good/calibrated tire gauge.

Or, if you are involved in an accident and do not meet the laws of the jurisdiction where it occurred.

Richard, This company in Houston makes tanks. No first hand info on them, but they have been in business for years, https://houston.craigslist.org/rvs/d/holding-tanks/6576023907.html

Herman, Ya, remember running it through the carb, but not the oil.

Reasonable question. I have forwarded it to a retired Tire Engineer on FMCA's Technical Advisory Committee for a reply-- past my pay grade. Brett

You should NOT ever reduce PSI because of a rise caused by a rise in temperature. Absolutely, the tire engineers understand physics. All their recommendations including those on the sidewall of the tire are for COLD (read that as before driving). They KNOW that PSI will rise with temperature rise due to rise in ambient temperature, sun exposure, friction with the road. ...........

Sorry, that is a myth spread by those wanting to sell Nitrogen. Nitrogen like all gases follow the Ideal Gas Law: PV=nRT. When temperature rises, pressure WILL rise. Basic high school chemistry/physics. Now, if one fills from one of those coin op with lots of water in it, THAT is a different matter. Ya, water is NOT an ideal gas, so pressure goes up more than with DRY AIR or Nitrogen. Said another way, very little difference in pressure change for a given temperature rise for either dry air or Nitrogen.

Yup, pressure rise with temperature rise is taken into consideration by the tire engineers. All normal.