wolfe10

It would be a LONG trip to attend one of my seminars right now-- we are in southern Argentina and headed further south tomorrow.

Simple answer really depends on whether your coach has a built-in generator. If so, it can provide all your electrical needs, both 120 VAC and through your built-in converter keep your batteries (at least house bank) charged. Tell us more about how your coach is "electrically equipped" including size of house battery bank and we can be of more assistance.

As suggested, the first step is to verify exactly what kind of wheels you have. Are they coated or "natural"/raw. Their "care and feeding" is completely different. For example, using an abrasive metal polish is perfect for raw aluminum wheels, but will ruin the finish on coated wheels. If in doubt, copy down the PN stamped on the wheel and call your wheel manufacturer.

Was at several in Pomona where weather was perfect, but parking on asphalt did require boards. Said another way, not all venues with asphalt have hot/uncomfortable weather.

Many asphalt lots require boards or other suitable devices for spreading out jack loads. Recall that at any of the FMCA Conventions where parking was on asphalt.

The answer is likely more complex than a simple YES or NO. Again, knowing exactly what inverter (or more likely an inverter/charger) will allow us to accurately answer your question. If an inverter alone, when off, it does nothing when no 120 VAC from external source (generator or shore power). When on (same conditions) it uses battery power to produce 120 VAC for those circuits "downstream" of the inverter. Even if you are not using any power, it will slowly draw down the batteries as it takes some power to be in "standby mode". Many inverters have a "pass through" feature-- basically a built-in ATS (automatic transfer switch). When you have 120 VAC from an external source it does not invert, it merely "passes through" the 120 VAC from the other source. Most inverters are really inverter/chargers. If this is what you have, when an external source of 120 VAC, in addition to the above, it will charge the batteries. And most are "smart chargers" with bulk, absorption and float voltages.

Thanks, Carl. Two very different engines. Suspect the the 380 HP is a 3176. the 300 HP being the 3126.

Sorry for my mis-information. Yes, the 1WM is a 3126. But the Marquis was a high-end offering, which generally meant heavier chassis and larger engine. Perhaps that description (larger engine) only applied to slightly newer model year Marquis. Gillig made an excellent chassis-- have worked on a friend's CC on that chassis.

Be aware that the FMCA towing guide reflects what the vehicle manufacturer says about towability four wheels down. So, it is "tainted". Some vehicles that are towable from a mechanical standpoint may not be deemed towable by the manufacturer, because corporate lawyers often hold sway over engineers when it comes to striking those that could be towed (from a mechanical standpoint) because of liability or warranty rears. For many years, the Mazda PU and Ford Ranger were mechanically the same, yet Mazda never recommended flat towing, while the exact same Ford did. Heck, for 2018, some models of Honda Civics are deemed towable, while others that are mechanically exactly the same are not-- likely just a breakdown in corporate communication. And, sometimes, the engineers have done insufficient testing of flat towabilty-- it represents such a small percent of market, that it is not really subject to the same tough standards. When was the last time you saw or heard of a Jeep engineer testing a new product by flat towing it behind a motorhome. And, towing behind a motorhome is different than flat towing behind, say, a PU, as the tow vehicle's overhang leads to very different issues.

A quick major change in voltage often indicates a loose or corroded connection. Second would be to fully charge and load test the batteries. Also, for fluctuations in voltage from the alternator, check carefully if you have a SENSE terminal/wire from chassis battery side of the battery isolator to the alternator. They are small gauge wires and are easily damaged. Also, the Beaver Marquis will NOT have a Caterpillar 3126. It will have a larger Caterpillar engine-- one over 10 liters, not 7.2 liters.

Excellent, Richard. One minor comment: The tire manufacturer's inflation tables establish the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. Said another way, if weight is higher, one moves to the next (higher) PSI column. So, I would suggest that the 5-10% that many of us add to the "minimum PSI for a given weight" has merit. Merit because it can compensate for colder temperatures (which by physics means lower pressure), for added weight (full tanks for example), and also for a a safety factor (better to not have a tire running at its bare minimum PSI).

Many newer coaches use 12 VDC for the electronic thermostat. So, check battery voltage.

Yes, it does seem to have wandered off-track and degraded to personal comments/attacks. Closed.

Yes, are you talking about your hydraulic jacks or power steering/brake boost?

Just a suggestion, but if you want specific CG information, better to start a new thread. Very few will see it under a "camping without a toad" thread.

Bswdds, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what inverter/CHARGER you have. That will facilitate much more accurate replies.

For CG advice, might want to start a separate thread. Not likely to have many read it under a slide-canopy-water-snow thread. Thanks. Brett

Yes, the Caterpillar ECM can be configured several ways in terms of activation of the exhaust brake. Manual is one-- only comes on when the electric switch for the PacBrake is turned on. Latch-- Comes on when you step on the service brakes. Stays on until you step on the throttle whether you remain on the brake pedal or not. There is one other choice, but I don't have my manuals handy right now. Any Caterpillar dealer could tell you how yours is configured in 5 minutes by plugging into the diagnostic plug.

Bill Edwards contact info: http://community.fmca.com/profile/22868-rsbilledwards/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjExNDgxLCJpZF8yIjo4OTA4NX0= To send him a message, click on the "envelope". One of two issues: your coach has a brake signal to the Caterpillar ECM AND, repeat AND, it has been programmed for LATCH MODE (exhaust brake comes on when service brake is applies and stays on until the throttle is applied) OR you have an after-market brake relay that does much the same thing. Yes, you could have a relay sticking causing this as well.

Joe, So, the actual charge was correct?

OK, closing this one down.

Yes, you will want to check with Monaco for options for the hydraulic fluid, as you said this is the hydraulic system cooler, not transmission cooler. While the system in empty, be sure to change the hydraulic filter(s).

The "not working" list sounds like a problem with the 12 VDC side of the electrical system. Verify that your "salesman switch" is ON (usually located near the entrance door). Second would be to check battery voltage, then fuses between the batteries and 12 VDC fuse panel.

Yes, so please start a new topic for any discussion not related to the original. Once new topics are interwoven with the original separating them is extremely difficult. Thanks.

If you can access the very front of your coach (from the front if your coach "nose" opens), it should be on the passenger's side. Or look up from where the drip hits the ground as another starting point.