Jump to content

wolfe10

Members
  • Content Count

    7937
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    81

Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. If the charger section of the inverter/charger is on, absolutely, voltage will be higher. If just plugged in, the inverter/charger will be in BULK MODE and around 14 VDC. After batteries fully charged voltage in FLOAT MODE will be in the 13.2-13.5 range. Sure, battery cables can be bad-- have seen some of them turn to copper oxide (green powder)!
  2. Both those readings are a lot better than the 12.04, but show they are still not up to full charge. Interesting that individually they test at 6.40 VDC plus 6.38 VDC (two six volt batteries wired in series)= 12.78 yet connected they show 12.41?? That is why I asked about the connections.
  3. 6.40 VDC plus 6.38 VDC (two six volt batteries wired in series)= 12.78. That is just fine, but a LONG way from the 12.04 posted above. Double check that the connections are clean and tight.
  4. wolfe10

    Mattress

    Everyone, Joe started a new thread with the welding topic to separate it from the mattress thread. Here is the new "welding" thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/11843-lippert-travel-trailer-frame/?do=edit As of right now, I will delete "welding" posts from this thread. Please re-post welding comments on the new thread. I have asked FMCA staff to remove Rich's first post on that new thread (it automatically posted first because it had an earlier "post date" than the first post in the new thread). Said another way, I tried to move "welding" posts to the new one, but they posted by date in the new thread, so the initial post would not be first. Hang tight, we will get it sorted out. Thanks. Brett
  5. OK, guess it is time to get back to the topic: "FMCA Website speed".
  6. 12.82 is a fully charged 12 volt battery AT REST (no charging and no discharge). Anything above that is surface charge and is quickly dissipated. It is the drop to 14.0 to 12.04 that causes all of us to suspect a house bank major issue.
  7. Guys, Let's keep this thread on track-- thanks.
  8. Gala? Honey Crisp, Macintosh? Why not branch out and raise some agave-- see you in 7 years for the harvest. Or are we talking about one of Steve Jobs products????
  9. Ray, I signed up as well. Suspect the questionnaire has not gone out yet.
  10. Ya, Skippers went under in Harvey, but is now back up and running. http://www.skipperscafe.com/locationhours
  11. Again, the question is, is this a real air pressure problem or a gauge problem??
  12. Skippers-- WAIT-- with a boat at Watergate Marina for the last 20 years, we KNOW Skippers. It is the breakfast place and, at least before Hurricane Harvey was the place for Greek food. Brett
  13. Same part, very different prices-- no brainer-- buy from the less expensive source.
  14. Thanks, Paul, And info on the two filters you asked us to compare.
  15. With a reading of 13.9, your inverter/charger is working.
  16. Can't tell if Carl was having a bad dream or was working on engineering plans for his low-rider coach???
  17. Depends on how fast this occurred and with what load on. But, unless very heavy load and/or long time with moderate load, no that is not normal. Again, suggest fully charging and taking to a battery shop where they can be load tested. Certainly age is related to battery condition/life, but very deeply discharging them materially shortens their life.
  18. Assuming you have an RV absorption refrigerator, probably not for two reasons: In most coaches, the 120 VAC plug for the refrigerator is NOT fed by the inverter. Easy to tell-- with the refrigerator on automatic, unplug. It should switch to gas (propane). If so, the load due to the refrigerator is very small and would not significantly drop house bank voltage. Even if the inverter was supplying the refrigerator heating element, it is not a huge draw. But, let us know whether your inverter does power the refrigerator outlet.
  19. You need to fully charge the house batteries and then have them LOAD TESTED. So couple if indicators out of spec: 13.99 is just fine for bulk rate charging, But, after 22 hours, you should be at float voltage which is 13.2- 13.5 VDC Again, unless a significant load on the house battery (large appliance on inverter power comes to mind) that almost 2 VDC drop when disconnecting is a real issue. When a battery bank is in good condition, disconnecting shore power should show a pretty quick drop to around 12.8VDC, as voltage above that is just surface charge. Then is should drop very slowly from there.
  20. Clearly, the house batteries are either deeply discharged and need more time on the charger OR they are shot OR there was a very heavy load on them during the test (like inverter powering microwave for instance). The "while plugged in" shows good bulk rate voltage. 12.02 if measured with batteries at rest is very close to completely discharged. HOW LONG WAS IT ON SHORE POWER BEFORE YOU UNPLUGGED AND TESTED VOLTAGE?
  21. Paul, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us the make and model (or better, click on the "chain icon" above and post a link to each so we can compare specs. Thanks.
  22. If you blow up while checking connections with generator off, shore power disconnected and inverter off, you will qualify as a MIRACLE. No, we don't expect one.
  23. With the difference between a fully charged 12 volt battery and one that is 50% discharged being only about .6 VDC, you need at more accurate measurements-- that is the point being made here.
  24. wolfe10

    Diagnostic Codes

    pbrosher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what model year chassis, as well as what engine and transmission you have. Thanks.
  25. Every one of those readings means neither battery bank is receiving ANY charge from your inverter/charger. And, all are dangerously low. What inverter/charger do you have. On most, you can not turn off the charge circuit or the pass-through feature. Said another way, on most only ability to "invert" from battery is a normal on/off function. Without knowing what inverter/charger you have we are GUESSING. The only other explanation I can think of is that when the smart inverter/charger sees 11 VDC, it (properly) says, that is a dead battery, I am not going to try to charge it. This can be overcome by plugging in a "stupid"/old technology charger to get it up to 12 VDC or so to where the inverter/charger will take over.
×
×
  • Create New...