wolfe10

Charles, Tell us what charger or inverter/charger do you have?

Snake eyes on the Allison shift pad often indicates a loss of 12 VDC. If this is accompanied by a loss of other "ignition hot" items such as dash HVAC fan, the issue is likely with the IGNITION SOLENOID or ignition switch.

Bill, To not slosh water out of an ice maker while driving, you are: A. Very lucky B. Only drive on really smooth roads C. Never corner above the speed limit. D.Have a fabulous suspension (OK, put a check mark by that one)

Herman, Agreed. NEVER have an ice maker (in-refrigerator or stand alone) filling/making ice while on the road. The water will slosh out and make a block of ice in your ice bucket.

Please tell us what size tires you want a recommendation on.

Roland, I am surprised your water pump is 120 VDC.

While driving: Leave it on if you want the alternator to power 120 VAC appliances while on the road. Have a residential refrigerator-- leave it ON. If you are not running anything on 120 VAC while driving, turning it off very slightly reduces load on the alternator, as the inverter takes a few amps to be in standby. While on shore power-- really makes no difference UNLESS power goes out. If power goes out, the inverter will immediately pick up the 120 VAC loads. While in storage-- the problem with leaving it on is that if shore power goes out, the inverter could completely deplete your batteries.

Bruce, I would start by just replacing the d2.

The d2 (air regulator) will be close to the on-engine compressor, connected by air lines. https://www.4statetrucks.com/air-electrical-safety/semi-truck-d-2-governor-bendix_6431.asp?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm_jqg9331QIVC1d-Ch16-grsEAQYASABEgIoL_D_BwE Any parts house that caters to OTR trucks will stock them-- under $25.

Any chance you have a link-- would love to read that article.

NKC914, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What kind of work needs to be done-- chassis (if so, what chassis), house systems, structure?

They make both sealed and regular wet cells. You can get AGM, gel and wet cell deep cycle batteries in both 6 and 12 VDC. Make sure to program your Freedom inverter/charger to the technology, size (in amp-hrs @ 12 VDC) and ambient temperature. It is a smart charger, but ONLY if you tell it what you need.

Very close to same amp-hr rating as your two 12 VDC's and longer-lived if cared for.

Not sure I would say 6 VDC batteries are "necessary", but two quality golf cart 6 VDC batteries wired in series will not be much more money than two "multi-use" 12 VDC batteries.

alanluher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by checking the switch where you plug in the hose. Perhaps the door is slightly ajar or the switch is slightly recessed. May even be a loose wire/contact at the switch. If not, check the switch wiring at the vacuum itself.

Yup, already discussed here in the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/11323-political-statement-by-marcus-lemonis/#comment-86916

F467598, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While we love Big Bend, there are no "resorts" there. And the only full hookups are in a parking lot. Yes, outside the park, one can get full hook ups. But would not define any as resorts. Still, very much worth the trip.

Wow, that is great!

Another option is to copy the charging voltages for each step (bulk, absorption and float) and call you battery manufacturer to see which one is a closer fit to their charging algorithms.

DarylPrice, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have not personally worked on the 5 speed. This information is for the Allison 3000 transmission-- I don't know how much is applicable to your application. A call to Allison tomorrow can answer it. Copy down your transmission serial number for them. Allison help line 800 252 5283. 1. On the 3000, the most accurate way to check transmission fluid level is from the electronic shift pad, not the dip stick. 2. If the dip stick can not be retrieved by other means, the dip stick tube is pretty easy to release from the transmission which would allow retrieval of your original dipstick for either reassembly or replacement with one marked exactly the same way.

Yup, Increases aerodynamic drag and with no increase in speed. Over the years have run into several 25-30 MPH headwinds. Always when we were on back roads (which we tend to drive anyway), thank goodness. So, if we had to drive that day, basically just down arrowed to 5th gear, put RPM at 200 over peak torque RPM and hit cruise. Ya, in the low 50MPH range, but no worries driving and not terrible effect on MPG.

matt2525, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Fuel MPG has increased in both gasoline and post 2007 in diesels as federal standards have tightened. Yes, on diesels, it comes with the additional cost and complexity of DEF and "converters". Two other major factors affect MPG: Speed-- with the aerodynamics of a "house" there is a much larger penalty to pay for higher speed. Many coaches that can get 9-10 MPG at 55-60 are in the 7's at 70. Weight-- not a significant factor on flat ground, but becomes quite significant on grades. So, weight's affect on YOUR MPG is dependent on what kind of terrain you cover.

C3H8

Bill, that is fine. And I sent a request to the IT department at FMCA to see if they could pick out the propane injection posts and put them in a new topic styled: Propane Injection For Diesel Engines in the engine section.

Good. Glad to see factual research. Again, I don't know that it would be a problem, but sure don't want to see someone hurt with even a potentially dangerous concentration of propane in their whole air system. Would also be interested in any detrimental affect of hydrocarbons on all the rubber in the suspension and brake systems. Again, no information, but questions. Of course, if propane injections is really important, one could remove the air system intake from the engine intake manifold, block that port and fit another air filter to feed the air system. Yes, the compressor would have to work harder as it would be supplied by ambient air, not compressed, cooled air, but something to think about.