wolfe10

The 6CT's are too tall for my application. I use the GPL-4CT which is more a "standard size" 6 VDC deep cycle AGM battery. If the 6CT's will fit your application, go for it.

Me too. And, the harder it is to access the batteries and/or the older I get (stress the second part) the more I appreciate the Lifeline AGM's. Basically install them, program inverter/charger and forget them. Works in both sailboat (where batteries are more critical and exposed to more "stress") and the motorhome.

Gerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Don't know specifically on the 2002, but on older Sahara models the jack reservoir and motor are behind the passenger's side rear wheel. Have to climb under to see it. Dipstick is on top. To confirm the location, have someone deploy the jacks while you listen back there for the jack motor to operate. What is your question about the slide awnings/covers?

The build date of the ENGINE dictates the emission codes it must meet. So, very likely a coach built 3/05 has an engine built before 1/1/04. But, from the engine serial number, VERY easy to tell. Just give the engine manufacturer a call with the engine serial number. Assume Cummins, so: Cummins 800 343-7357.

With the Cummins ISC, he will have the Allison 3000 and Monaco used the push button/electronic membrane pad gear selector so common with that transmission.

It was a two stroke engine-- think giant Lawnboy. 3 cylinder, 3 one barrel carbs, 850 CC. Redline-- ain't no stinking redline. No valves to float and roller bearing crank. Lots of fun. Killed dead by EPA in 1968. Sorry, did not mean to stray off course. Back to the OP's issue.

Absolutely true as long as your smart charger or inverter/charger has been properly programmed. SO, AGM's plus proper programming= trouble-free 12 VDC system.

Sail boats.... motorhomes.... houses...... Yes, compromises. But, there are coaches that can meet both needs. Just keep looking. And, newer diesels with DPF filters sometimes DO have a (read that ONE) spark plug. Would love to be the guy that goes in to a NAPA and asks for a spark plug for that diesel-- Caterpillar C7 for example. Must be my evil side. Enjoyed going into a gas station in central Texas in the early 1970's and pouring oil into the fuel tank of my car. Just told them it burned so much I might as well put it in the gas tank. Yes, it was a 1967 Saab 96 with the last of the two stroke engines.

No personal experience with that late a model.

Roland, You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline and ask them for a history on the engine. 877 777-3126.

No question, play in a steering box and/or slop in suspension components make handling worse. Same in virtually any vehicle. Again, the chassis manufacturers knew how to make a better handling/riding chassis, but that is NOT what sells (most) coaches. The company that spends an extra $5,000 on chassis will loose market share to the company that spends that $5,000 on interior upgrades. Just a fact of marketing. But, some of us DO ask questions about the chassis and are willing to seek out coaches that fit OUR desires. So, long wheelbase, good suspension, upgraded shocks, side radiator, larger engine, accessibility of engines/components that may need service are things I am willing to pay for.

Just to be clear, with modern 4 stroke diesel engines (not the old two stroke engines) lugging is defined as operating at high throttle positions below PEAK TORQUE RPM. For our 2003 ISL that RPM is 1,300. So I do not operate below that RPM except at very light throttle (like when slowing down coming into a town. If you can climb a grade at or above peak torque RPM (different for each engine) AND, repeat AND you are not overheating, that is your most economic way to climb. I would add that I want a little throttle left as well (so, just short of wide open throttle). If coolant temperature starts to rise, gear down and raise engine RPM, which spins the water pump faster, cooling fan faster, etc.

Not sure I would call it a "red flag". But a 41' coach would be better off with the larger engine (the ISL of that vintage was 425 HP, and I believe 1,200 lb-ft of torque) for both going up grades and the engine compression brake for going down them. The ISC will get you there, but your power to weight ratio is not as good as you might want. Again, just one of the trade-offs when looking at coaches.

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does seem excessive. But call Cummins with your engine serial number for their advice: Cummins 800 343-7357.

Roland, You might want to verify that that 360 HP is indeed the ISL. Could also be a "lesser" engine. And if an ISL that it has the much more desirable engine compression brake, not an exhaust brake. The exhaust brake was the less expensive option.

Cross winds are where two physics principles come together" Long wheelbase/overall length WINS. Good weight distribution (i.e. properly loaded front axle on a DP) WINS. And, where things like proper sway bar, shocks, etc come in. That is why we drive the coach we do. Don't expect any coach to "defeat" physics. Sadly, most coaches are sold on interior layout and decor, NOT how they drive.

Checking water level every 6 months may be OK in cold climates, but in hot weather, a monthly check of water level will save you a lot of $$ on batteries. This is particularly true if you do not have a smart charger THAT HAS BEEN PROPERLY PROGRAMMED.

Did you loose 12 VDC to "house items"? OR Did you loose 12 VDC to chassis items (like the Allison shift pad)? OR Did you loose 120 VAC to "house items"?

Am I in TIMEOUT---------- AGAIN???

Which Maxxforce engine? What chassis? What coach?

F455594, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First suspect is low battery. Electronic devices throw all kinds of codes when operating on low voltage. So, what is voltage at the chassis battery? And, with the Allison transmission, you can check for diagnostic codes from the driver's seat: Ignition on, engine off. Push up and down arrows at the same time. Repeat. That will bring up d-1, then either - - if no diagnostic code or a two digit code if there is a problem. If there is a d-1, push the mode button to bring up d-2. Continue until you get a - -. Turn off ignition and look up the codes in your Allison owners manual or Allison on-line.

Sharon, Yes, there is some danger when you smell that "sulfur" smell, which indicates overcharging, as Hydrogen gas is the other byproduct of overcharging. As to the cause: 1. A battery with a bad cell. So, even the best charger will try to charge that 10 VDC battery as if it were a 12 VDC battery. So, one dead cell and the other 5 will be severely overcharged. If wet call batteries, this is best diagnosed with a hydrometer (under $10 at any auto parts house) 2. Charge voltage is too high, which can overcharge even a good battery bank. Correct float voltage (after being plugged in for at least a few hours should be 13.2- 13.5 VDC. WHAT DOES A DIGITAL VOLTMETER READ AT THE BATTERIES (digital voltmeters start under $20)?

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Questions that will help you diagnose this: 1. What is chassis battery voltage when the key is turned to start? 2. With key turned to first notch (acc), do all things that should only run with the ignition on run (dash HVAC fan, for example)? 3. Exactly what does/does not happen when you turn the key to start (as Jim said, does it click)?

Again, Continental DOES have that size-- I am holding their sales piece showing that size that I picked up 3 days ago at their booth at the FMCA Convention in Chandler. Contact them on Monday.

I do it the same way Carl does-- in fact, that is my stored favorite for getting to the FMCA Forum.