wolfe10

Generator or main engine-- if the level of fuel in the fuel tank is higher than the filter head, fuel will run out until it reaches the same level!

So, do you suspect some out of round/runout in the tire/wheel that repositioning corrected?

You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline to see if they have any suggestions: 877 777-3126.

I asked the FMCA Staff Forum support person and got this response: "From looking at the post content it appears that the issue is on his end, with the browsers he is using. That is desktop support and isn’t really something we do. We support the forums software itself, but cannot know what may be causing the issue on his personal computer. I would suggest he update his browsers and remove any plugins he may have installed. But because I didn’t setup his machine I really can only speculate what the problem could be on his end."

Carl, I suspect the two Magnum 2800's are electrically the same: Invert to change 12 VDC from batteries to 120 VAC when not on generator or shore power. And, when on shore power or generator to do two things: "pass through" the 120 VAC to all circuits wired to them AND charge the battery bank. Yes, I guess they could have disabled the charge function in one of them. Let us know if yours are different.

There is certainly "one answer fits all". Three questions, really: 1. Do you have a place to do it? We have a storage garage with concrete floor. If I need it up higher, I drive up on 2X12's. As long as I have been under that part of the coach with all the air out of the suspension, I will do work without jack stands. Those 2X12's give me that clearance under the whole coach. 2. Do you have the tools? 3. Do you have the skill and desire? Most work on a DP is not really technical. An oil change is easier on our coach than our car-- plenty of clearance and no front air skirt to remove. Just use a bigger bucket-- I use an old Rubbermade tub that I line with black trash bags. It is on its 3rd coach over the last 19 years and is doing just fine. The real issue for the person who wants to do some/all their own work is to understand exactly what needs to be done! Examples of what is different about a DP: You have an air dryer that needs service, coolant needs to be tested and SCA level maintained, etc.

Five, See my post above. If there are any "care and feeding" of diesel coaches not covered, please post. Other than that, the DRVC Forum not a chat room. It is more an encyclopedia of how to minimize cost of maintenance/minimize breakdowns in a diesel pusher. Most DRVC members post here on the FMCA Forum for other issues.

Percussive repair! I would sure check the connections in and out of the inverter/charger.

Any suspension/alignment shop that works on trucks. Certainly a Freightliner dealer world qualify. You DO need someone familiar with doing it, as too tight can ruin the steering box.

Carl, The ATS doesn't sound like it is the culprit, since all other 120 VAC things in the coach work. Said another way, the same two hots, one neutral and ground supply not only the inverter/charger, but all other 120 VAC things. And, since you do not say that outlets and appliances that can be powered by the inverter are not working, that suggests that 120 VAC is also reaching the inverter/charger (and then the pass through feature is powering those items). So, it may be that just the charger section of the inverter/charger is not functioning. If this is not exactly what is happening, please post specifically what is working/not working.

At least a call to Allison could get you the correct PN. Then, if you find one for less $$ you could go that route.

Also critical is how low the rock guard hangs. If low enough that it can hit the ground over bumps, it can actually throw MORE debris on the toad than without it.

Roland, Depends on what steering box you have. Some like Sheppard are NOT externally adjustable. Certainly, a call to Freightliner, Gaffney with your VIN would get you the correct information for the steering box on your coach. Freightliner 800 385-4357

straycatboat, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With your transmission serial number (on the driver's side of the transmission) you can go to or call any Allison dealer for the correct part. Where are you located?

The Diesel RV Club used to have a more "chatty" forum but most do not come to the Diesel RV Club to chat-- they come for technical information. And, with many of the same questions coming up time after time, many complained that they were being hit with the same questions and then someone would have to post the same answer 10-20 times a year. SO, I spent a week reorganizing the Diesel RV Club Technical Website: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php?action=forum to more resemble an encyclopedia of information on the different "care and feeding" topics. And, it is being used for just that, with over 2,600 page views A DAY. So, guess it is working.

Gentlemen, Please, let's get this thread back on track. The subject is: FMCA "Remodel / Under Construction" Thanks.

Gentlemen, Let's try to get this thread back on track: Non-creeping area rugs. Thanks.

This will be one of the very few Diesel RV Club Rallies Dianne and I miss. My dad will be celebrating his 100th birthday July 9th and our whole family will be on a cruise with him.

Nothing like an English car designed for a 4 cylinder with a Ford V8 (260 CID in the early ones) from a division under the Chrysler umbrella.

OK, I looked up your coach to find out what chassis you have, since shocks are really chassis-specific (the coach is Allegro, not the chassis). You are on a Ford F53 chassis-- probably 2010 or 2011. So, comments by others on that chassis would be relevant. I could post what shocks I have found best on our 38' diesel pusher (Alpine on Peak chassis), but it would have little to no relevance to YOUR chassis.

Chuckconnie, Please tell us what chassis you have and what you are trying to improve-- handling? ride? How many miles on the chassis?

Certainly not ideal, but most of that is superficial. On the few areas where there is significant pitting, may be worthwhile to treat and paint. Some labor, but not much $$.

Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. The House bank is the one that the inverter/charger normally charges. On some, it also charges the chassis bank. So we ARE talking about the HOUSE bank. Assume you do have 120 VAC to the inverter/charger. Does it show to be charging (voltage/amps) on the remote panel? When shore power off/generator off and you turn on the inverter function, does the inverter work (do you have 120 VAC to the microwave for example)? If so, that would prove that the large amp/slow burn fuse between inverter/charger and house battery bank is intact.

Keith, If the on-generator breakers are good, next place to check is the generator to coach wire connections. Yes, next after that is the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). They are generally located near where the shore power comes into the coach, as they are the "junction box" for shore power and generator IN and then the OUT to the coach main 120 breaker box. With all shore power disconnected, generator off and inverter off if you have one: remove the lid from the ATS. Check carefully for burned wires/loose connections.

Agree-- first place to check is to turn OFF and back ON the two on-generator breakers (not fuses, but breakers).