wolfe10

Sorry, the question is too vague/broad. Like asking of Ford is good-- are you talking about a 1992 Ford Escort or a 2017 Lincoln? Same for Spartan-- they made a number of different chassis over the years. Some VERY basic, others very high end. What year and which Spartan chassis are you interested in?

Carl, Doubt the dash heater issue has anything to do with the engine. Whether Caterpillar or Cummins they just supply water to the lines to the dash heater core.

Carl, Peak torque is 860 lb-ft at 1,440RPM, so don't run below that with any significant load. Peak HP is 350 at 2,400 RPM which is also governed RPM. A good hill climbing speed for that engine is 2,000- 2,100 RPM. For those not familiar with mountain driving with a heavy vehicle, a good rule of thumb is to find a gear where you can maintain 2,000 RPM AND STILL HAVE A LITTLE THROTTLE LEFT (i.e. not at Wide Open Throttle).

Carl, With engine warmed up, I would access the heater core (open the nose). Feel the hoses that go into the heater core. Some manufacturers add a ball valve in the line from engine to dash heater core (actually a good idea in case of a hose or heater core failure). Could have been done by chassis maker or Tiffin. Could also be a heater control issue. If you get that far into it, you will need to know the brand of the HVAC control.

Rick, Did they retract as soon as you turned it to ACC or did you turn it to ACC and then hit the "jack retract" button? And what jack system do you have?

More information on reading the DOT number/date code. The full DOT number is molded into only ONE sidewall of each tire. Could be facing outward, or could be facing inward. The date code is generally in a raised/indented area, since that part of the tire mold is changed weekly. The date code is the last 4 digits. so in Herman's example the last 4 would read 1416. That would mean the tire was manufactured the 14th week of 2016. There is no magic time when a tire goes from good to dangerous. Many factors affect tire life. Here are some: Never run under-inflated/overloaded. PSI based on actual wheel position weights, with all tires on an axle inflated to the same PSI based on heavier wheel position. A TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitor System) makes monitoring this a lot easier.) Not exposed to UV light (i.e. stored under cover or indoors of with tire covers on them) No petroleum-based tire dressing used. Driven frequently better than being parked for months/years at a time If your tire has not had the best "care and feeding" or you do not know how it was treated before you bought the coach, err on the side of safety.

Yup, had an 8' Dyer dingy for years. A hard fiberglass dingy. Easy to row.

Thanks, Bill. Have had three of their boats over the decades-- one 34' and two 37's. Somehow work had to sandwich in there somewhere!

No, O.. L... 7...0 is NOT a diagnostic code. It is for checking oil level and the 70 means that oil is not up to operating temperature. To access diagnostic codes, push the up and down arrows AGAIN. That will bring up d-1 and any diagnostic codes.

We use them on our boats for a number of reasons: They can't spill They don't outgas (unless severely overcharged) No sulfuric acid fumes. No maintenance. Lifeline AGM batteries came as standard equipment in our 1995 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37'. Been using them ever since.

That is the same route (60/70/I-10) we took last time back from Phoenix to Texas and plan to use again after the Chandler Convention. No problem, but like Carl said some moderate technical driving just east of Phoenix. A few miles shorter, a little longer time wise than I-10 all the way. Our kind of cross country route.

That is a good recommendation, but one CAN shift directly. Just not as easy on the transmission.

Certainly a start capacitor is a relatively inexpensive and easy to replace part that could/would cause high amp start up loads. Be sure you discharge the capacitor before working on it!

The higher the load, the more fuel demanded. So collapsed fuel line, etc should show up more. And, if a leak on the suction side allowing air in, the more fuel demanded, the more "vacuum" to pull in air. And, while not absolutely a "fuel issue", if the carburetor is gummed up, it may not give the proper mixture at high throttle settings-- depends on what is gummed up. Same basic issues can happen with the main engine.

Correct, you do not have the pre-filter on the frame rail.

Strats, Please modify your signature to reflect what coach you have. And, certainly, if you have contaminated fuel, a new filter can clog very quickly. Also, let us know what year your chassis is and whether it is a Freightliner. It is common on Freightliner chassis with the ISB to have a THIRD fuel filter on the frame rail, forward of the two filters you see.

Excellent job. Congratulations.

Cute, But, please keep in mind that many are viewing on small screens and light colors are very hard to see.

Ya, this thread has really grown some legs. A long way from sanitizing water tank to the culinary discussion. But, heck, ya'll are having so much fun, I hate to shut it down. Of course, you could start a new topic under "General Discussion"!

PeggySue46, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what year, make and model you have. Also, describe what "Rear All On" controls.

Do whatever you are going to do IMMEDIATELY. It often takes a dealer a couple of days to process the paperwork to register a vehicle. If it has not been registered, it would be a LOT easier to undo the transaction. I would discuss just this with the owner or General Manager of the dealership TODAY.

Was not aware that there was even a sensor for EGT on a 2003 ISB.

You might also run some Seaform through it, might clean out the carb.

Were it me, I would continue on down the road. One A/C should get you by until you get to a qualified/Onan authorized repair facility. In fact, I would start by calling Onan, discuss your route and ask for their input on where to stop for diagnosis and possibly repair. Yes, it could be serious, but could also be something inexpensive that is keeping the engine from putting out full power-- clogged air or fuel filter, varnish in the carb, valves out of adjustment, etc.

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